Polo Bikes

Use the cable stops if you have them, there is less friction in air than in any cable outer... the only downsides are a less sealed system (lube up regularly and it's not a problem) and only one option for where your cable routes (usually the best place anyway).

How do I work out what bb size I need? It might be easier to just ask if anyone's got a combination of a pomp and Onza cranks and what bb they use? :)

http://misterxbike.tumblr.com/FRAME

i really like the look of this.

frame + fork = 360€

frame + fork = 360€

Very tempted. I am getting them to send me the geo and sizes. I wonder what postage to UK will be

With nokon brake sets, is there any benefit to having a continuous housing run to the rear brake? My frame has got the kind of TT cable guides that leave ~30cms of bare brake cable showing in the middle. I could ignore those and just ziptie the cable to the TT though. Which would have less friction?

I used the cable stops, but also used nokon between the cable stops, and had the teflon going all the way from the lever to the break (except for where the oiler is).

I did that so that the cable isn't exposed, and it's easy to oil then (otherwise it will just all squirt out of the cable stops when you use the oiler).

frame + fork = 360€

Cheaper than Dodici.

The frame is very compact as you can see, but at the same time is very stable.
We have done our best to use standard 170 length chainset, with standard large pedals (like the ones of BMX), so you can ride and bend, without ever touching the ground with pedals.
Different players tried it and we had excellent feedbacks.
There can be two versions of the frame: with wide rear hub 120 or to 135 (for MBT wheels) and predisposition for a disc brake, you can get it roughly in almost all RAL colors, for now only glossy.
We're doing with a predisposition for 135 of spacing and the brake disc, when it's ready we will post the photos on the site.
Cost Mister X:
Frame + fork - 120: £ 330
Frame + fork - 135 disc brake set up with: £ 340
Delivery costs £ 54

20/30 days of production, + 3 days for shipping directly to your house.
Geometry

head tube angle and seat tube angle? 75°
fork length (a-c) and rake? 0°
weight of the frame? 1.95 Kg
weight of forks? 1 Kg
'effective' top tube length? 52.5 cm
The secret of this bike is the fork that was designed to run very close without closing ... ever.

I used the cable stops, but also used nokon between the cable stops, and had the teflon going all the way from the lever to the break (except for where the oiler is).

Doesn't that mean you have plastic tubing moving through the cable stops as well as the cable though John? Sounds like that'd invite friction/wear?

The frame is very compact as you can see, but at the same time is very stable.

head tube angle and seat tube angle? 75°
fork length (a-c) and rake? 0°

I'd put my money on that not being very stable, but you never know. Nice price and weight.

I'd put my money on that not being very stable, but you never know. Nice price and weight.

Here's the geo, discuss...
http://www.lfgss.com/picture.php?albumid=1856&pictureid=11788

I spoke to the misterX guys, and they seem like a really sound bunch.
The geo of the frame is well thought out (i'll post the specs in a minute) and they are being made by a reputable frame builder from good tubing, at a good price.

ah thanks rich, was just about to get that out.
to save anyone the trouble, the calculated trail on the frame is 65mm, which is pretty much ideal (imo etc.)

Looks like a pompino redesigned for 26.

maybe you should get one pk

Looks like a pompino redesigned for 26.

really? it's nothing like a pompino

Yes it does

Some rake on the fork.
They could've angled the seat-tube back a bit.
Looks good.

That looks pretty good to me, I'd have lowered the BB a little, pulled the rear end in and made it taller (more normal stand over kind of setup), but yeah, looks promising.

They could've angled the seat-tube back a bit.

2012 is gonna be about longer stems and more even weight distribution I reckon so this could be ok as it is.

Doesn't that mean you have plastic tubing moving through the cable stops as well as the cable though John? Sounds like that'd invite friction/wear?

Nope, the plastic/teflon tube doesn't move.

How do I work out what bb size I need? It might be easier to just ask if anyone's got a combination of a pomp and Onza cranks and what bb they use? :)

English, JIS taper (?), 68mm x 118mm... I've got one you can have for six beers...

2012 is gonna be about longer stems and more even
weight distribution I reckon so this could be ok as it is.

#latesttrend

2012 is gonna be about longer stems and more even weight distribution I reckon so this could be ok as it is.

The McCaig theory.

You could run 175s with 310 bb height.

They just doing one size? Custom option?

I plan on running 175s on less than 310, I'm thinking a little bit of pedal strike in the corners is better than a high centre of gravity (or a lack of leg extension for sprinting), a wider q-factor should make the strikes less gnarly too?

I think they do different sizes, someone was talking about it on FB.

doesn't look like those forks are 0 rake in the drawing..

which is good, because 0 rake is dumb.

65 trail sounds good.. i think it looks ok. If its made of tin can then perhaps not..

I'm running 175s on 295 bb height now. Wider q factor will just make pedal strike more likely, not less gnarly.

Tubing wise, my frame is 600g heavier. Would rather the 600g and beefy chain/seatstays.

There are safer places to lose weight than on the frame, I lost 400g on each tyre by riding Marathon Supreme instead of Marathon Plus. IMO

Pedal Strike can never be good, i love my high BB, way more confidence to pedal through fast corners. Don't notice higher CofG at all, and I have full leg extension.