Polo Bikes

+1

i changed my quick release shimano deore hub to a track axle with wheel nuts, £12 for the axle, You can easily do it to lots of hubs (not hope pro 2 though)

I did the same. Ask for a solid axle for the width of your needs. The difference being that the axle isn't drilled out for a QR and will be 20-30mm longer so that you can put the nuts outside the frame. Threads and axle materials are the same. The should never be any problems when changing from or to QR.

But then you need to check to make sure it is possible as voidcore has said. A standard axle is basically an M10 fine pitch threaded bar.

The should never be any problems when changing from or to QR.

I thought there are problems with the cones when you change from qr to solid axle?

Hub gear you say...

You just need a solid axle with the same thread as your current hollow one. Use the existing cones/locknuts.

I have one mrak. It's the park tools one and I always used it on my old WI.
Can bring it to polo tomorrow night if people are playing or Saturday

Hey Toddy, not 100% sure on my plans for tonight, but can you throw it in your bag in case I show up? No worries if not.

Ok now that i have a curvy seat tube i'm gonna try just front brake I think, duel brakes are feeling too heavy on my fingers, who Is currently running just front?

Me, Manu, Emmet, Aufbruch (at least I am now, and they were at the Open).

Thanks Chris... How do you find it, pros and cons

http://sheldonbrown.com/brakturn.html

no more wicked cool skids for you

Goods: less hand cramp, less clutter.

Bads: Front wheel slides (you're sharing turning traction with braking traction which isn't good), endos (if you can't modulate properly or have an expected moment in the game - mini crashes are worse), faster wearing rim/brake on the front, less traction in the wet, less bike handling ability for hopping around and the like, less stable handling/bike when braking and not going in a straight line, more fatigue from trying to keep yourself upright (left arm under braking) all the time.

I feel like you put more effort into one side of that argument than the other...

endos are fun, they should go on the good side, then you should learn an endo-180 spin-mega shot

Goods: less hand cramp, less clutter, less maintenance, less weight, less rear tyre wear, mad endos, on trend?

Just front brake is the new trend? Ah well, another trend to shun.

I like dual brake in the way you can dial in the amount of skids for the different surfaces.

Nah, fixie skidders ftw.

To properly compare you need to draw up a table comparing front only, rear only, front heavy dual brake and rear heavy dual brake.

Front brake only certainly has merits.

Simple, for stopping power:

Rear only < rear-heavy dual brake < front only < front-heavy dual brake.

For polo (stopping power, traction and stability):

Rear only < front only < rear-heavy dual brake < front-heavy dual brake.

With a front heavy dual brake, most of your weight under braking is already too far forward for the back brake to have much (if any) effect, so it isn't that cut and dry.

IMO if you like to scrub speed when going through corners fast you need double brakes. If you scrub speed with just a rear brake you skid out, with just a front you can either skid the front out or flip the bike. Just from personal experience. The front brake is great when upright in a straight line, but braking with the bike on an angle (high speed turns) can be a nightmare.

I think the perfect set up is dual brakes with 50/50 bias.

You don't have to have a dual brake set up that gives you hand fatigue, higher quality calipers and levers will prevent that. But unfortunately they cost moneys.

I agree with Snoops.

And he didn't mention rain or slippery surfaces. Front only in the rain or on a slick court is a nightmare.

Snoops is running a very high quality caliper on the rear.

Ha, I've been feeling the quality in my wrist these past few months.

50/50 is good for me too, I find it's all a trade off: gain a bit of braking in the corners, lose a bit of stopping power, etc.

Correct spring tension plus oilers and regular addition of TT fluid works well for avoiding hand fatigue for me (no problems for ages now).

If you have a front brake on the bike, in any configuration (single brake/dual), you should have the benefits of front brake only.