Polo Bikes

More levrage in the corners, more stable riding position more leverage for hopping around and the like, generally more leverage and it's easier to play the ball in front of your front wheel. Downsides = less upright riding position (visibility/shooting) and less "nimble" steering (twitchy).

http://www.lfgss.com/post2266521-5553.html

:-)

Built before snoops'!

Manchester don't sleep... ;)

If the bike is mega short and you have a short stem, riding position is a bit upright imo. It's good to be able to throw your weight forward and get over the front wheel too. of course, we all have different playing styles so choose what suits you personally.

I was just thinking the distance between saddle to bars on Ste's bike looks mega short. And saddle is already far back over the wheel so it could be an idea to get a longer stem to stretch out a bit. That would help a more attacking style if needed + lower bars...

I'm getting that bike I think, minus the forks.
annoyed by the 135mm rear spacing though. Means I need to build a new rear wheel. However correct me if I'm wrong but since I'll get a MTB hub surely I can put two sprockets so I can run a polo gear and a commuting gear? chainline issues?

i have 2 rear sprockets and 2 chainrings so the chainline is matched on either and the rear axle doesn't move much. i think it's 39/18 and 36/21. you could probably do better, those were just the chainrings i had on hand.

i run a 32t chainring and a cassette with two sprockets a 21 (polo) and a 16 (road) when i put it into the road gearing the axle is still only halfway down the dropouts. i could get a 12 in a reckon!

I'm using a single chainring with two sprockets 36x21 and 36x13. Chainline is set up right for the polo gear and the other is close enough not to matter. I would go with the two chainring setup but haven't got the money to do so.

Another vote for the two chainring set-up. I used to do that when I had a dual purpose commuter/polo bike. Works really well and if you have exact tooth differences front to back the wheel will be in the same position. It's a bit of a ballache to change over all the time, and you need some kind of guard for the exposed chainring.

Just run a 34/36 or other small tooth difference chainrings. And when the smaller (polo) chainring is in use the chain will be shielding the larger chainring from doing any damage.

That's still an exposed chainring.

If you're running a middle and an outer ring then you could run a bashguard outside that and use some extra long chainring bolts.

Like these - http://www.chainreactioncycles.com/Models.aspx?ModelID=46947

or http://www.chainreactioncycles.com/Models.aspx?ModelID=35865

That's still an exposed chainring.

And such a small chainring difference wouldn't yield a big enough gear-inch difference to be worthwhile.

It would in combination with a smaller rear sprocket as well.

exposed chainring.

get a bashguard as well

exposed bashguard.

ha

New ride.

Big thanks to spoons and prav, for helping me get rolling so quick.

Soo nice!
Now we're going to win for sure.

Looking for a lay-back seatpost, any recommendations?

system ex posts are good.

Thanks, but looking for more lay back, smth like that:
http://www.ebay.at/itm/330604241396?ssPageName=STRK:MEWAX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1438.l2649

anyone got a v-brake booster plate they want rid of? or perhaps know of a good make and retailer?

Yep hassan left one here. Yours if you come pick it up

Mark, I'll pick it up for you if you need.

Yep hassan left one here. Yours if you come pick it up

Mark, I'll pick it up for you if you need.

amazing and amazing, thanks dudes.

john, i'm coming down thursday before we go to denmark friday morning, any chance we could meet up?

edit: scratch that, i'll get it when we get back the week after