Car appreciation... the aesthetics, the engineering, etc

You can get braided fiberglass boots that do a ok-ish job of protecting HT leads from heat. I’ve had decent luck with them.

Sounds like the current leads lasted 8 years- will the car last another 8?

you're a current lead

Sounds like the current leads lasted 8 years- will the car last another 8

I'm surprised you didn't suggest some bespoke NASA spec coated high performance HT lead. Or are you only logical with car repairs when it's other people's cars?

The second one.

Fitted all four new cables, came out, went in fine. Engine on, revs fine, doesn't feel underpowered/juddery even gunning it up hills which was where it failed last week.

Basically all good and even felt like it performed better than before it conked out the other day. Though I noticed a knocking sound as I braked/came to a stop that was in time with the wheels - i.e. was rapid and slowed down as I did. It seemed to resolve itself by the end of the test journey I just did (3 miles or so). Could it just have been rust or something? Paranoid I've fucked the transmission/rotor/other expensive thing (though would have thought that driving in limp mode for about 300m wouldn't have done that).

Again, it seemed to have resolved itself by the end of the journey. Something stuck in the tyre maybe?! It wasn't metallic, sort of hollow/dull thudding. It sounded like it was coming from the boot/rear of the car - couldn't place left or right.

That's usually suspension related - either sway bar or ball joints if it is in time with the wheels. Check and see if it happens over bumps because that usually indicates shock failure of some description. If you are on the original suspension then those are the most likely culprits.

Limp mode would not have ruined the rear diff.

Taycan positively shitting itself (next to the portaloos) like a star struck teenager with this in the same carpark...

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Just did another longer journey and no noise at all. I'll see if the garage is back open next week and get it given a once over there but I suspect (hope) all is well.

We currently have the Dometic CFX fridge that came with the camper in our sitting room helping to provide some additional festive capacity - it's very good. It's being powered by the Goal Zero Yeti Powerstation (big battery with a multitude of outputs, inputs, and power management).

Still in it's box is a 50 watt solar panel that is designed to charge the battery, when you are parked up. It's all really nice kit, well thought out and effective - makes me want to use it all whilst actually camping.

However, the camper is currently in bike-van mode, with half the bed in the garage and half installed, but being used as a storage shelf. In order to get the bikes in there plus all the camping equipment (double bed, fridge, kitchen etc) I think that there's no option but for the rear seats to go, leaving only the driver and front passenger. The bikes can then go East-West behind the two front seats, ahead of all the camping infrastructure and kit.

It's interesting trying to work out the most efficient use of space, lots of wrong/sub-optimal answers available!

On a more general living with it perspective, I'm enjoying it a lot.

Any Mini owners in this thread? We’re looking at fairly cheap/high mileage options for my other half.

Most examples we’ve seen online have similar recurrent issues in the MOT history and none of it is particularly scary, but I’m interested to know if there’s anything major we should look out for after 100-120k miles?

My Focus 1.6 TDCi has been parked up for a few months since I bought a couple of other cars that are actually good, and I need to sell it before the insurance renewal. Despite having a solar battery trickle charger on it the battery flattened itself (along with 3 of the tyres) and resisted jump starting from either of the other two cars and it flattened a jump pack designed for a 6 litre engine.
If it doesn’t start tomorrow with the recharged jump pack I’m weighing the fucking thing in.

Minis have a shed load of options, try and find one that has a few of the packs fitted and not a poverty spec one. We have had 4 in the last few years. The soft top didn't seem all that robust and was quite noisy,and not a lot if room in the back.

Oh dibs as I need a shitter, does it have a crit air sticker?

My Mini Cooper is currently on 111,000 miles. Bought it about 3 years ago on 85k or so. When I bought it it had just had the clutch done, apparently that is relatively expensive on Minis so good to find one that has been done. Since then it has needed a new rear wheel bearing and an ABS sensor, and a gearchange cable. The passenger window is very temperamental.

I really like it - my personal preference is to get one with a sunroof as it makes it lighter and feel more spacious inside. EDIT I've also just swapped the 16" runflat tyres for 15" steels and bigger sidewall regular tyres. Ride is definitely better but steering feels slightly less precise. Next mod is to delete the rear wiper as it is useless.

EDIT 2: just remembered I also needed to change the indicator stalk as it was putting the high beams on every time I indicated.

No. It would be a Crit Air 4

It’s Euro 3. No DPF.

Can't really answer what to look out for. My folks have my 2010 mini r53 and it's still going well. Something gear related recently went, I can't remember exactly what went and what was replaced, could have been the clutch. It was c.£2.5k to replace with BMW. Pricy compared to its value but it now drives like new. Casualty of London clutch riding I guess.

Electric windows are a common thing that goes wrong/plays up.

If you get R53 I would strongly advise making sure it's got whatever the nice hifi option was called as the stock one is pretty shit and it's very hard to upgrade. Xenons are great so I'd get one with those if possible.

Is it me or is there just something about Tesla colours that looks cheap?

I can't put my finger on it.

Paint is really thin on them. They’re not high quality paint like BMW, Audi etc.

Also think that the previous revision of the model 3 looked cheaper because of the chrome trim. Thankfully they use black now which helps.

Think I paid approx £800 to get a clutch replaced at an independent for a previous R50 that I owned.

Oh and one other thing, mine has an electric power steering pump which is really loud & whiny. "they all do that sir" - not strictly true but this was a known issue when I bought it and it hasn't got any worse or failed.

@midlife @el_presidente @hugo7 thanks folks, that's all good to know and rings true with the "buyers" guide type things I've been reading.

We're hoping to see one which has just had the clutch done (not so sure abt options packs) and think the seller is in the trade and is flipping it. Previous sale was salvage auction but there's nothing on the hpi and it's in one piece in the photos on the auction listing. We wondered if the previous owner panicked at service costs and part-exed it and that tip about the expensive clutch seems to fit the theory.

Paging @NurseHolliday

From the PSA perspective, the Prince engine fitted to the mini and the BMW have timing chain and tensioner issues. The bit that BMW designed ;)

those are post-2006 I believe

Cheers! I'd read about the chain tensioner but had thought it was only an issue on Cooper S/JCW models. Will keep an eye out!