Car appreciation... the aesthetics, the engineering, etc

Replying to BrickMan here, but thanks everyone for all for the replies!

Had to google runout and do I understand it correctly that it's the disc is either mounted slightly on an angle due to rust / debris / break dust buildup or poorly manufactured parts? This then causes the discs to thin in places, which slowly builds over time creating the pulsing while braking?

My tires are new this summer, just a few months old and there's no vibration even at higher speeds so everything seems to be balanced and trued properly. All discs and pads were changed in sept last year and the car has prob seen 700-1200 miles since then.

As it hasn't been a year since the discs were changed I'm gonna give the garage who changed them a call

@lynx Car is a 2007 Saab 9-5, the judder started a few months ago but has been getting rapidly worse over the last couple of weeks

update - just spoke to mechanic who's gonna speak to their parts supplier about warranties. Fingers crossed they'll sort it out for me.

Just which one?

Freshly imported early MK1 1.6
Mk2.5 VVT or imported MK2 RS with the 6 speed box
Mk3.75 Recaro (probs out of budget)

Hypothetically if we were trying for a third child, what cars should I consider (2nd hand around £3-5k)
I really like estates, but I think wanting to be able to accommodate the width of 3 child car seats rules pretty much all of them out - right?

Are my options pretty much VW Touran, Picasso and Ford S-Max?

i wish those new grand picassos could tow 2 tonne - they are cavernous inside

Multipla

LM002

been having loads of fun in the little fiat. lots of little missions around town. not that many miles but many many smiles.

did the longest trip to date in it this weekend. couple of days camping in the Chilterns with official little green car photographer @shinscar

now plotting longer trip to the Kent coast.

been running like a dream so far. got an MOT even though exempt. safety first.

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Such an awesome little car. Puts a smile on my face and i don't even own it...

Glad someone else has had the run out issues.

Found the cheapest way round is the on car disc lathe. Lots of porsche dealers have them and straighten/clean the disc for a pad change.

Do discs last longer than two sets of pads nower days?

that little rocket is ace, jonny

Take fuel filter out and check for metal particles. Use a coffee filter and a magnet to see.

That will be first, shiney metal particles means pump. Dark metal rust like particles mean stuff from the petrol pump tanks.

Did no one go to festival Italia at Brands Hatch.

There are cheap pattern parts and cheap pattern parts ;)

Nower days it feels like a mine field in parts buying. For example I like EU made purflux filters, yes I cut old filters open and look. They are OE suppliers for a lot of euro manufacturers PSA?renault/Nissan. every so often they become hard to source. They are occasionally the GSF bargain brand.

I try and use a decent factor, not random off the internet. I then try and specify brand and place of manufacture. I doudt you guys would remember the fram filter fiasco of non EU or US filters.

Then there are fake parts and more common than you think.

Brakes will be fixed on warranty. Wallop!

Get in. Congrats.

Pretty pleased they messed up and used their own parts instead of the Saab original bits I had bought and left in the boot. On the other hand it might've never been an issue with original parts...

I love this

it doesn't deserve penalty notices

cheers dude

Having done a bit of reading up on this, I still don't know what is right/wrong...wheel bolts, lube up or go in dry?

They are big money now

I'd go in dry, personally.

I'd also go in dry

Maybe a bottle of wine first.

Love that Jonny - incredible colour too.

Ah now that is a question, and one that is a source of many an arguement. What does the manufacturer recommend?

Personally, I make sure the thread on the nut and the bolt part are clean, it do this by running a cleaning tap/die on them. On the shoulder of the nut or bolt (not the wheel) a little lube (lube dependant on that the wheel is made of) like a lightly greased finger. Then torqued up to the manufactures torque, if aftermarket wheels are fitted I'm never sure. Remember that different wheel materials means different torques.

I lube the shoulders of the nut bolt as the contact surface can be damaged and lube stops that while not effecting torque of the bolts.