Car appreciation... the aesthetics, the engineering, etc

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  • Compound by hand or DA/orbital buffer?

  • By hand, I don't have a buffer.

  • Had another go this arvo, started at 1,000 grit and went up to 2,500 in 500 increments. Positive: this totally removes the milky sections in the window. Negative: my cutting compound (T-cut) isn't aggressive enough to take out the fine scratches left by the 2,500 grit. I have ordered 3,000-7,000 grit and will see where they leave the window.

  • Once again faracle and it is sold in halford. People have been know to use toothpaste to polish out the scratches.

    Don't forget to use a quality wax to 'seal' the plastic.

  • And Faracle differs from the other cutting compounds which I have tried by being much more aggressive? Much less?

  • G3 is more abrasive than T Cut.

    It's what you need.

  • Ok, that's useful, grazie.

  • Why not look on the weblink all the information is there?

    Have you got an angle grinder with variable speed?

  • G3 is like t-cut for grown ups, it should be great for your first cut after wet sanding. I have used G10 after G3 which is for final polishing

  • My dad want to carry ski on his car roof, i narrow down the choice to the Thule Touring Sport 600, which is just about long enough to accommodate his longest ski (175cm, ski is 170cm).

    Do anyone else have an alternative option or suggestion?

  • Go with the little kit car sticky out-y ones. You'll be able to see fuck all out of either so you may as well go for the ones that look the best. If you're doing hill climbs/sprints or rallys hopefully you won't be having to watch at whats coming from behind.

  • Better, but still swirl marks


    2 Attachments

    • IMG_0607.JPG
    • IMG_0608.JPG
  • Yeah, I think I'll go for the smaller rectangular ones, they seem to be common on other race / rally / hillclimb polos. You can also get them in plastic casings which means they're cheaper to replace when they're inevitably ripped off on a chicane!

  • Significant improvement, if you get up close to mine there are still a lot of imperfections and faded bits.

  • Am I phrasing my question wrong? I'm asking for alternative roof box.

  • Significant improvement, if you get up close to mine there are still a lot of imperfections and faded bits.


    1,000 grit

    1,500

    2,500 (missed the photo of 2,000)

    And then G3 followed by Meg's PlastX using a mop on an electric drill, which lead to the pictures up thread.

    I have removed all of the milkyness, which is great, but it's driving me totally nuts that I can't get the scratches out, which means that at night any following car turns into Close Encounters of the Third Kind moment.

    I refuse to believe that it's impossible to remove these scratches.

  • i was talking about this with an MX5 owning friend earlier, he said he swears by this stuff call Renovo, it seems well reviewed

    https://www.amazon.co.uk/Renovo-International-Plastic-Window-Polish/dp/B00CZ3KQE0

  • I have used it, it gets the window nice and shiny but it doesn't get the scratches out.

    I'm at a bit of a loss, I had assumed that 1,000 grit upward would cut deeper than the scratches, I'm actually wondering whether the scratches that remain are from the 2,500 grit stage and that if I go 3,000 upward that might remove them? Or is that lunacy?

  • Go back to a lower grit if the scratches are still there?

    Good job on getting rid of the milky line, I wouldn't have thought that possible.

  • Is the window hard plastic or flexy?

  • Flexible - it has to be, it folds for storage (hence milky line):

  • Do you know what material it is?

  • Volvo 850 R just labelled 'coolest estate car ever' by Chris Harris on Top Gear...

  • To iPlayer!

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Car appreciation... the aesthetics, the engineering, etc

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