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• #14402
I always quite liked the 460 shape, they were quite common as runarounds in Winchester when I was nobbut-a-lad.
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• #14403
In 1982 Reliant paid Bertone 100k to come up with a new Scimitar design.
Guess what they came back with. Yep, the fucking Tundra again!
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• #14404
Heh, "One design to rule them all".
What else did Bertone do in that period?
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• #14405
hmm, the Mazda MX81?
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• #14406
These wheelarches?
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• #14407
that's right. le mans cars need two seats.
I guess this expired now?
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• #14408
I guess this expired now?
"Each car is required to have at least two seats, although in recent years only the ability to place a second seat in the cockpit has been required; the seat itself has not. No more than two doors are allowed; open cockpit cars do not require doors."
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• #14409
So different for prototype open cockpit... (can't see a spare seat)
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• #14410
There doesn't have to be a second seat, only the ability to put it there. I always figured that's the only reason why the driver is offset. I'm sure Audi could say that there's simply a cover over the space for the second seat.
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• #14411
Then of course there's the F1 which is centrally positioned albeit with side seats.
Bit of an odd rule seeing as it is walked all over.
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• #14412
Yep, don't see the point in it.
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• #14413
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• #14414
http://www.youtube.com/watch?feature=player_embedded&v=k-e9wUW3nIg
Previous KRB project...
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• #14415
Really lusting after this today. Totally shouldn't be because its neither Classic, Modern or remotely cool.
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• #14416
That's not hellaflush fitment at all. Gorgeous wheels nonetheless.
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• #14417
Esprit and Quattro. Gnnn...
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• #14418
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• #14419
has anyone ever done their own rusty wheel arch repairs? I've got paint blowing and rust on my mk3 VR6. I guess I take it back to bare metal, rust cure, prime and then paint? But how best to blend in? I guess professionals would either replace the panel, or at least paint the entire panel?
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• #14420
you can use swage lines as edges to blend in.
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• #14421
Yep, though your aim should be to just stop the rust rather than getting a showroom finish.
I did it a fair bit on my Rover.
Take the paint off with a paint- scouring attachment on a drill, and the rust with a wire brush. Try and completely eradicate it.
The rust converter stuff does work well, and you can use a bit of filler to get the surface smooth again.
Prime it with the brown rust-resistant primer. It is a hell of a lot better than the black stuff.
Paint to an edge if you can, rather than trying to blend. Key shiny paint with a scotch pad.
Warm spray cans in a bucket of hot water to make the paint flow better.
Solid colours don't need lacquer and you get a better colour match. You can wet sand and repaint, and polish to your heart's content until you get a good finish.
Metallics need clear lacquer, which means twice as much finishing and are often a terrible colour match. -
• #14422
so, here we are - gah. looks even worse now I've had a proper look at it
http://i31.photobucket.com/albums/c398/Eightball69/IMG_20130211_122357_zps2ac0e3c7.jpg
http://i31.photobucket.com/albums/c398/Eightball69/IMG_20130211_122454_zps41dc1413.jpg
http://i31.photobucket.com/albums/c398/Eightball69/IMG_20130211_122427_zps33fd035a.jpg
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• #14423
Those areas will be easy to do, nearly no blending of the paint needed. Just go to a an automotive paint shop and get a few cans mixed up in the correct colour!
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• #14425
We're going to need a wider lens...
Volvo did use that under-bumper grille treatment later.