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  • no offense rite, but if you spend stupid money on some vintage collectors frame you should at least know something about bikes.

    I advise you go have a look around and find out what you want to build to get some ideas of the parts you need. there are many different kinds of cranks, quill stems, pedals, wheels, and so on.

    oh my days, and I just saw you want risers.

  • ^ I have a drop bar in if you want

  • no offense rite, but if you spend stupid money on some vintage collectors frame you should at least know something about bikes.

    Bit harsh Scott.It's expensive, but it looks a good 'un.

    Rogan as it says in the description it's a 27.2mm seatpost, and you'll need an English threaded bottom bracket. What type of BB will depend on what crankset you got.

  • Bit harsh Scott.It's expensive, but it looks a good 'un.

    Rogan as it says in the description it's a 27.2mm seatpost, and you'll need an English threaded bottom bracket. What type of BB will depend on what crankset you got.

    sure it does. but if its gonna be raped into a fixie by someone who doesnt even know seatpost or BB sizes it mightaswell be from a tip.

    I'm not being harsh. My advice is the best. go and research and get some bike fashion sense or go buy a create. of course you're welcome to do what you want as long as I can laugh when I see a classic restored Bob Jackson frameset with risers, badly built with mish mash parts.

    This isnt a troll right?

  • I understand the criticism totally fair point, I did do a fair bit of research but the bikes going to see a lot of use so I didnt want to spend money on crap that'd get changed anyway and I'd had my eyes on bob jackson frames since i started my research...

    I did realise i needed an english bottom bracket and i understand i need cranks to match it was more the 'mm' length that i was asking about as i don't fully understand the differance, risers are purely for me to get used to riding fixed being upright should help me learn and then i can use drops when im more confident

    im definitely going for a classic look i have no plans on putting bright orange wheels and a pink set of handlebars on it, i have the money to spend on some decent parts for it im not now going 'ok so i have a frame £100 for the rest what can i get'

  • great, some detail. I will save you some extra research time.

    yes, you want a quill stem for that frame and headset.

    Crank length depends on rider leg length. longer legs get longer cranks, longer cranks have more leverage, shorter spin easier. longer legs reccommended longer cranks, shorter - shorter cranks. If you are the right size for that frame I'd suggest 165mm. If you want a classic look get silver square taper cranks, SR and campy pista show up on ebay often.

    track BB is usually 107mm for good chainline.

    The frame probably isnt 700c, a front brake may not fit very well, you'll need long drop.

    As said seatpost is 27.2, standard for most, especially english reynolds tubing.

    rear spacing is 125. standard track is 120, use washers to get correct size.

  • Looks like going to answer the door means most of what I typed in reply has now been covered so I'll just leave the last bit:

    Please take the time to learn as you go and ask lots of questions. I'd suggest you start by reading the seminal resource on the web for bikes:

    http://www.sheldonbrown.com/

    Everybody has to start somewhere but you kind of dived in at the deep end with this one.

  • great, some detail. I will save you some extra research time.

    yes, you want a quill stem for that frame and headset.

    Crank length depends on rider leg length. longer legs get longer cranks, longer cranks have more leverage, shorter spin easier. longer legs reccommended longer cranks, shorter - shorter cranks. If you are the right size for that frame I'd suggest 165mm. If you want a classic look get silver square taper cranks, SR and campy pista show up on ebay often.

    track BB is usually 107mm for good chainline.

    The frame probably isnt 700c, a front brake may not fit very well, you'll need long drop.

    As said seatpost is 27.2, standard for most, especially english reynolds tubing.

    rear spacing is 125. standard track is 120, use washers to get correct size.

    Thank you very much!
    Wheels I'll be looking into when im down in london, should end up cheaper and its easier to transport that way, yeah 52cm frame is my size I'm 5'7 so your advice on crankset sounds accurate.

    Will save all this, cheers.

  • If you get normal flip-flop wheels, they'll be set up for a 120mm rear dropout gap. Although the listing says 125mm, I reckon it's a 126mm/5 inch setup.

    Good news is most bike shops should be able to add a 3mm each side (which would involve undoing the locknuts, hence knowing how to re-tighten them without overdoing the bearings). If anyone uses the phrase "cold set", hit them with the nearest spanner and run.

  • Pedal MCR is some time on wendsdays or sutin, they fix and build stuff I hear, borrow tools for donations and get advice. Sell parts aswell.

  • Looks like going to answer the door means most of what I typed in reply has now been covered so I'll just leave the last bit:

    Please take the time to learn as you go and ask lots of questions. I'd suggest you start by reading the seminal resource on the web for bikes:

    http://www.sheldonbrown.com/

    Everybody has to start somewhere but you kind of dived in at the deep end with this one.

    Thanks also! Yes I'm a fool for diving straight into things but it can't go horribly wrong.. I'll definitely be looking into getting help putting it together by someone who knows what they're doing as I realise not doing so properly can be dangerous!

  • track BB is usually 107mm for good chainline.

    Depends which cranks, some recess the axle ends further in than others. Pick your cranks first.

  • Thanks a lot everyone! I'll get hunting

  • Maybe start a thread in current projects section of this site. It's a good way to get input of others.

    Above all else though don't for gods sake listen to Rob when he suggests you use it to play polo!

  • Aha I'd be totally interested in using my crappy bike for polo if i wasn't leaving after exams..! I'll be back September 2013 so maybe i'll be a pro by then..

    well most likely not but you never know...

  • thanks fixed&broken. I like to choose both options. I like to think I help in two ways. tell people what they want to know and give them a bit of incentive to figure it out for themselves with a simple google search, it will teach a lot more than I can be bothered typing..

    I do recommend pedal MCR a lot though.

  • Yeah, and we also know the dangers of the shit you find via Google ;-)

  • Wat? polo yeah?
    Scott is stoopid, moor polos

  • .

  • Ok - Price drops

    Surosa £275 for the complete bike
    £60 the Corrado
    £40 the Hinde

    Chainset and Tubs provisionally sold pending payment.

  • ^ still got the delta cleats?

  • Yup still got the cleats... Pm me if you want them !

  • Profile Airwing bullhorns 26mm slightly trimmed £15
    Deda Piega track drops SOLD
    Deda logo stem 120mm takes 26mm bar. £7
    17t 1/8" cog halo or surly cant remember £5er

    A few updates, also due to measuring idiocy its a 120mm deda logo not 130mm
    C.

  • Deda Piega track drops £5

    what's the clamp size and how wide are they?

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Northwest Marketplace

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