High Flange vs Low Flange

Tynan I never weigh furniture. That would be weird.

Estimation restored, you're now back to the level of a 2 bed semi in Hertfordshire.

fucking ace ! :)

Have a look at Corny's red Mid flange phils. Nice.
DTs are expensive!
Phil BB probably an excellent idea.

Also have a think about Royce stuff.The Hubs and BBs are AWESOME, if you're gonna be splashing the cash.

I'll be your first customer ;)

my next project after the surly is done is a classic british build. sounds like royce is the way to go with that one.

i wanted 28 front and 32 rear as i am not heavy
where can i buy them? I could not find any apart from 36

No, HF can be found with 36h. My front at the moment is a 28h HF.
LF are available in anything from stupidly low to 40h (though finding an SF 40h might be tricky these days)

the royce site confuses me to death!
they look much better than phils

tika, you could de anodise the goldtecs with oven cleaner and polish them, if you want silver ;)

i though that i saw somewhere here that that would not be ok. i will try to find the post.

sugino 75 + campag centaur 111mm + goldtec + eai = dogsballs
do you like them? i bought them for my surly. some ppl complain about the chainline

i have read so much that i have a headache!

Tynan, I've just built up a dt 1.1 single eyeletted version, and also (sadly) weighed it off against an open pro (silver) and had the same findings as you.

as for them cracking, well Have to wait and see. they were the only(clincher) rim I could get at the time in 36H, they seem to build up OK, despite the spoke holes not being "handed" (they are central) and single eyeletted.

the ride is very similar to the OPs on the road.

as for pewter goldtecs, if you want silver just leave them outside in the sun for a few days.

they're fine. i also had goldtec with open pro's b4 hand. currently have phils with deep v's.

thanks RPM
Thanks dogs

they're fine. i also had goldtec with open pro's b4 hand. currently have phils with deep v's.

from sensible to hipper than hip in one easy step.

my goldtecs lasted a long time, only complaints are they don't like being flipped a lot (the alloy axle ends begin to burr, and it's a pain to get them in quickly) and the chainline meant I couldn't use my new wheelset with the same BB, so a road wheelset and track wheelset should have 42mm chainline hubs ideally, unless you use Oldtec for both. shit when you upgrade.

Tynan, I've just built up a dt 1.1 single eyeletted version, and also (sadly) weighed it off against an open pro (silver) and had the same findings as you.

as for them cracking, well Have to wait and see. they were the only(clincher) rim I could get at the time in 36H, they seem to build up OK, despite the spoke holes not being "handed" (they are central) and single eyeletted.

the ride is very similar to the OPs on the road.

as for pewter goldtecs, if you want silver just leave them outside in the sun for a few days.

I have been fine, no cracking, I can't imagine DT Swiss would continue to make and sell singles if this was a common problem ?

Indeed. I'll ask the man-who-know at some point what the shizzle is with all this cracking malarky.

I thought it was just the mtb rims?

Indeed. I'll ask the man-who-know at some point what the shizzle is with all this cracking malarky.

I thought it was just the mtb rims?

The only thing that ever cracked on my bike was my mind.

Never noticed that the DT Swiss holes where central and not offset . . . just looked at mine, you are right, this means spokes on Open Pros can be slightly shorter = weight savings !!

i am going to upgrade the wheels from ambrosio
i have miche primato cranks [the old one] but i don't know which BB

unless you use Oldtec for both [wheels]???
didn't get this bit..

from sensible to hipper than hip in one easy step.

my goldtecs lasted a long time, only complaints are they don't like being flipped a lot (the alloy axle ends begin to burr, and it's a pain to get them in quickly) and the chainline meant I couldn't use my new wheelset with the same BB, so a road wheelset and track wheelset should have 42mm chainline hubs ideally, unless you use Oldtec for both. shit when you upgrade.

unless you use Oldtec for both [wheels]???
didn't get this bit..

I mean if you have another wheelset for the track (with tubs and small cog, for instance) you can't use the Goldtec with the same BB.

so simply swapping out a set for the road won't be easy because of the 3mm difference in chainline

Indeed. I'll ask the man-who-know at some point what the shizzle is with all this cracking malarky.

I thought it was just the mtb rims?

I'd heard from a friend who runs a bike shop that they'd had problems with them. This was 3 years ago when I was looking to build a lightweight pair of climbing wheels and I was deciding between the DT Swiss 1.1 and Open Pros for the rims.

A quick google turned up all this;

[ame="http://www.google.co.uk/search?hl=en&q=dt+swiss+1.1+cracking&btnG=Google+Search&meta="]dt swiss 1.1 cracking - Google Search[/ame]

got u RPM
it is a bit more complicated than i tought
i hope that my wheels work with my bike
i wont be flipping the wheel a lot as i want this bike to do tricks and commute and i am happy with 46:19 for both

A quick google turned up all this;

http://www.google.co.uk/search?hl=en...e+Search&meta=

looks like the 28h cracked up a bit (but then so did willski's open pro)

any rim will bust if you build it too tight, especially on lower spoke counts.

interesting though, I'm sure mine will be fine on the track, and it seems like people are saying they beefed up the single eyelet version anyway.

I will ask the man-at-the-top

i heard cracking is common with single eyelets. loads of people were complaining about MA3's back then. actually guys on roadbikereview were flaming open pros too for the welding, but so far i've never heard anything bad about them from people i know who run them. i run a pair myself and they've always been great.

DUDE no. You can get track hubs in low and mid flanges. Unless you want to be running gears on this bike, don't go around asking for road hubs! Mine are for a geared bike.

I would recommend you deal with Phil Wood directly... BLB and the other hip hop shops will look at you funny when you say you don't want Hi Flange track hubs. There's an order form on the Phil site, get some advice if you need it from them on the phone, or us. They won't respond to emails probably. You may get stung on import tax, unless you can get them delivered to someone in the US whom you're gonna see sometime...?

re: rims well actually no I was being lazy. Box section is a really old fashioned shape like this:

whereas the DTs and Open pros are more like this:

i.e. less square than the top ones, but not deep V (aka Aero) profile like this:

(I have used these illustrations of drc rims cos they have a handy cross-section diagram on them.)

Hope this is of some help.

Has anyone any experience of the box section type rims like the above? I have been looking into gettin low profile wheels, but dont want tubs. What are they like in comparison to the open pro's?

what a great, educational, intelligent read - and all in ten hours..

sorry.. carry on..

[quote=tynan;309371]Actually the Open Pros just crept up another 1g (!!) so they are likely to be 462.5g and the scale is rounding up/down each time I weigh them. I would accept them at 462g, but 462.5g !! No way !! These behemoths are going in the bin now.

Do I spot a Damien Hirst coffee mug, and have you weighed Arayas?

Do I spot a Damien Hirst coffee mug

Tesco - 4 for £2.99.

. . . . and have you weighed Arayas?

Araya Aero 1 World Champ 32H 333.5 g - 700C tubular, grey
Araya CTL-370 28H - 372 g - 700C
Araya R-50 32H - 391 g - 700C tubular, black anodized
Araya RED 32H - 379 g - 700C tubular, grey anodized.

has anyone made a filthy joke yet regarding the thread title? if not then i volunteer...