Belt drive fixed

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  • Might be a tension thing. But my discs are nicely aligned, and if I add more tension the cranks dont spin very well.

    Meh.

  • Apparently roller chain is very efficient, cheap, and doesn't slip even with a modicum of slack. Might be worth a try if the whole belt drive thing doesn't turn out to be ideal for pedal cycles.

  • Apparently roller chain is very efficient, cheap, and doesn't slip even with a modicum of slack. Might be worth a try if the whole belt drive thing doesn't turn out to be ideal for pedal cycles.

    It'll never catch on.

    I'm tempted to blame the belt tugs. They're shite.

  • I'm considering retrofitting a frame with a belt drive. Does anyone know of any frame-builders or shops in London that will source the parts (though I can probably do this) and also fit them?

  • You need to get a frame builder to split the frame so you can fit the belt also.

  • And kinking the chainstay if necessary.

  • You need to get a frame builder to split the frame so you can fit the belt also.

    Maybe I wasn't so clear, it's just the frame-split that i'm interested in. Not the belt parts.

    I should be able to sort out any chain-stay issues with a wider chainline as it'll be single speed, and the rear spacing is 130mm

  • It's been years since these were hyped. Are they dead yet or what?

    I'm moving office again so will probably be parking out with the plebs which means new-bike-with-less-bits-on-it time. Worth going to belt drive for a commuter? I like the idea of no lube, hose it down cleaning. That and Di2 Alfine :)

    Prefer fixed for London but it could turn into a winter training bike so gearage would be required.

  • It'll never catch on.

    I'm tempted to blame the belt tugs. They're shite.

    It was this.

  • I guess it's just down to the fact that you need a dedicated frame and they're only applicable to SS and hub gears... although you could say the same for track dropouts I guess.

    There were those trek hybrid type things which had them.

  • Not much market for expensive hybrids.

    I still feel its a great option for ss off-road.

    You need good tensioners it seems, though.

  • Edinburgh selling a belt drive singlespeed bicycle, abet a shit one (tiny clearance, steel high tensile fork etc.)

  • You need good tensioners it seems, though.

    Why?

  • The belt tension needs to be higher than that of a chain. So if you have a flexi tensioner it has a bigger effect.

    I replaced mine with cheap but far more effective ones.

  • Hippy- what size do you need?

    Horrifyingly ugly Trek District here in 54cm for a quite tempting £2.20

  • That's serendipitous, I'm currently mulling over the idea of having a belt drive singlespeed commuter/cross bike.

    I'm going to read this thread now.

  • Centertrack cogs and belt arrived in the mail, and frame is off to be split soon. Last remaining question seems to be how to tighten the lock-ring. A normal tool doesn't work well as the lockring is slightly recessed due to the width of the cog.

    Anyone have any ideas? Does a lockring tool that can be driven by a socket driver exist? Last resort will be screwdriver and mallet, but I'd rather not...

  • I haven't even put this on my Robin Mather yet even though that was the whole point.

    Biggest issue for me: a convenient web store from which I could order the Centertrack components.

    That's it.

    In 2 years I've not been arsed to go through the off-line ordering system, it turns out a chain is not that big of a deal.

    Though, as soon as there is a convenient web-store that has all of the components in-stock, I will finally order it all.

  • Is there another part on a bike that requires a a splined-tool to fit around the outside of it that has splines placed at 12, 3, 6, 9 o'clock positions?

    Was thinking that something like that + filing off the unnecessary splines would work too

  • My friend John have himself a cheap belt drive fixed wheel bicycle (all for under £500), he rebuild a rear wheel to run fixed by swapping the hubs.

    He use a Halo Fixed-G hubs for that, cheapest way of getting a fixed rear wheel without paying silliness for a Phils (retail £70).

  • Fuck me this stuff is expensive. I'm sure you can find cheaper, but a quick search of ebay shows fixed sprockets being c.$100USD.

    How much more would it cost someone to custom machine one for you?

  • Hippy- what size do you need?
    Horrifyingly ugly Trek District herehttp://rover.ebay.com/roverimp/1/710-53481-19255-0/1?pub=5574889051&toolid=10001&campid=5336525415&mpt=[CACHEBUSTER]http://rover.ebay.com/roverimp/1/710-53481-19255-0/1?ff3=2&pub=5574889051&toolid=10001&campid=5336525415&item=131006463947&mpt=6796468 in 54cm for a quite tempting £2.20

    My god that's hideous.

    Because midfoot creates silly toe overlap I'll probably go longer than what I ride now so I'm thinking a long 56 or a 58 running a shorter stem or a funny trail fork or something.

  • That's serendipitous, I'm currently mulling over the idea of having a belt drive singlespeed commuter/cross bike.

    I'm going to read this thread now.

    Copycat from Ballarat.

  • Anyone have any ideas? Does a lockring tool that can be driven by a socket driver exist? Last resort will be screwdriver and mallet, but I'd rather not...

    I've seen a Sugino lock ring that uses the same tool as external BB cups (16 drive grooves), and you can get a socket to drive that.


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Belt drive fixed

Posted by Avatar for Velocio @Velocio

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