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• #602
Apparently roller chain is very efficient, cheap, and doesn't slip even with a modicum of slack. Might be worth a try if the whole belt drive thing doesn't turn out to be ideal for pedal cycles.
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• #603
Apparently roller chain is very efficient, cheap, and doesn't slip even with a modicum of slack. Might be worth a try if the whole belt drive thing doesn't turn out to be ideal for pedal cycles.
It'll never catch on.
I'm tempted to blame the belt tugs. They're shite.
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• #604
I'm considering retrofitting a frame with a belt drive. Does anyone know of any frame-builders or shops in London that will source the parts (though I can probably do this) and also fit them?
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• #605
You need to get a frame builder to split the frame so you can fit the belt also.
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• #606
And kinking the chainstay if necessary.
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• #607
You need to get a frame builder to split the frame so you can fit the belt also.
Maybe I wasn't so clear, it's just the frame-split that i'm interested in. Not the belt parts.
I should be able to sort out any chain-stay issues with a wider chainline as it'll be single speed, and the rear spacing is 130mm
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• #609
It's been years since these were hyped. Are they dead yet or what?
I'm moving office again so will probably be parking out with the plebs which means new-bike-with-less-bits-on-it time. Worth going to belt drive for a commuter? I like the idea of no lube, hose it down cleaning. That and Di2 Alfine :)
Prefer fixed for London but it could turn into a winter training bike so gearage would be required.
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• #610
It'll never catch on.
I'm tempted to blame the belt tugs. They're shite.
It was this.
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• #611
I guess it's just down to the fact that you need a dedicated frame and they're only applicable to SS and hub gears... although you could say the same for track dropouts I guess.
There were those trek hybrid type things which had them.
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• #612
Not much market for expensive hybrids.
I still feel its a great option for ss off-road.
You need good tensioners it seems, though.
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• #613
Edinburgh selling a belt drive singlespeed bicycle, abet a shit one (tiny clearance, steel high tensile fork etc.)
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• #614
You need good tensioners it seems, though.
Why?
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• #615
The belt tension needs to be higher than that of a chain. So if you have a flexi tensioner it has a bigger effect.
I replaced mine with cheap but far more effective ones.
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• #617
That's serendipitous, I'm currently mulling over the idea of having a belt drive singlespeed commuter/cross bike.
I'm going to read this thread now.
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• #618
Centertrack cogs and belt arrived in the mail, and frame is off to be split soon. Last remaining question seems to be how to tighten the lock-ring. A normal tool doesn't work well as the lockring is slightly recessed due to the width of the cog.
Anyone have any ideas? Does a lockring tool that can be driven by a socket driver exist? Last resort will be screwdriver and mallet, but I'd rather not...
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• #619
I haven't even put this on my Robin Mather yet even though that was the whole point.
Biggest issue for me: a convenient web store from which I could order the Centertrack components.
That's it.
In 2 years I've not been arsed to go through the off-line ordering system, it turns out a chain is not that big of a deal.
Though, as soon as there is a convenient web-store that has all of the components in-stock, I will finally order it all.
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• #620
Is there another part on a bike that requires a a splined-tool to fit around the outside of it that has splines placed at 12, 3, 6, 9 o'clock positions?
Was thinking that something like that + filing off the unnecessary splines would work too
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• #621
My friend John have himself a cheap belt drive fixed wheel bicycle (all for under £500), he rebuild a rear wheel to run fixed by swapping the hubs.
He use a Halo Fixed-G hubs for that, cheapest way of getting a fixed rear wheel without paying silliness for a Phils (retail £70).
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• #622
Fuck me this stuff is expensive. I'm sure you can find cheaper, but a quick search of ebay shows fixed sprockets being c.$100USD.
How much more would it cost someone to custom machine one for you?
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• #623
Hippy- what size do you need?
Horrifyingly ugly Trek District herehttp://rover.ebay.com/roverimp/1/710-53481-19255-0/1?pub=5574889051&toolid=10001&campid=5336525415&mpt=[CACHEBUSTER]http://rover.ebay.com/roverimp/1/710-53481-19255-0/1?ff3=2&pub=5574889051&toolid=10001&campid=5336525415&item=131006463947&mpt=6796468 in 54cm for a quite tempting £2.20My god that's hideous.
Because midfoot creates silly toe overlap I'll probably go longer than what I ride now so I'm thinking a long 56 or a 58 running a shorter stem or a funny trail fork or something.
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• #624
That's serendipitous, I'm currently mulling over the idea of having a belt drive singlespeed commuter/cross bike.
I'm going to read this thread now.
Copycat from Ballarat.
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• #625
Anyone have any ideas? Does a lockring tool that can be driven by a socket driver exist? Last resort will be screwdriver and mallet, but I'd rather not...
I've seen a Sugino lock ring that uses the same tool as external BB cups (16 drive grooves), and you can get a socket to drive that.
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Might be a tension thing. But my discs are nicely aligned, and if I add more tension the cranks dont spin very well.
Meh.