• Since when bigger tyres are slower?

    increased rolling resistance?

  • Raw with matte finish (no RAL), absolutely Ace!

    Rest here.

  • Superb

    So some light it's grey, other it's blue?

    Oooooh!

  • Eerrr... no G, the Flickr album has 3 different frames posted:
    1 gray
    1 Green/blueish
    1 raw
    ; )

  • respray at armourtex, lovely colour, waiting for stickers. any advice on post application treatment? i know i should have them under the lacquer but its too late and i didn't think that far ahead. dum dum. its gonna have a shiny campag group on it.

  • You couldn't have done it any other way Miller... Armourtex explains that (either web or leaflet), the temperatures of their ovens melt any sort of decals.

  • sigh of relief i thought i'd been a pillock. then do i just stick them on and leave them bare?

  • Up to you... and the decals. If they're vinyl it should be OK, if they're some old type of foil, thin water transfer, it may not last long.

  • vinyl, so i'll take my chances, thanks for the advice

  • You couldn't have done it any other way Miller... Armourtex explains that (either web or leaflet), the temperatures of their ovens melt any sort of decals.

    He could have had the decals over the powder layer, but under the lacquer right?

  • No, the lacquer 'bakes' at the same temperature as the powder, it is actually stronger.

  • vinyl, so i'll take my chances, thanks for the advice

    You can spray another layer of clearcoat over the applied decals, for that extra peace of mind. Cans of the stuff can be purchased are places like Halfrauds.

  • Does anyone know if enamel paint would survive the "bake".
    probably not as I've seen how easily it bubbles under a heat gun, but then again a heat gun delivers a blast of about 500'C....
    I am thinking of doing lug lining between the powder and lacquer process

    Maybe ask at places like armourtex if they have any paint of their own... if memory does not fail PC 'bakes' at 200ºc +.. whereas enamel needs only ±120ºc.

  • RAL 4007 with metallic lacquer - sorry photos aren't great and frame is dirty.


    4 Attachments

    • IMG_1031.JPG
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    • IMG_1033.jpg
  • Raw with matte finish (no RAL), absolutely Ace!

    Rest here.

    Has anyone else had their frame, raw and clearcoated?

    Do you have to have a blasted effect with PC to allow the paint to stick, or can you have a more polished look?

    This is more the look I am going for:

    This is one I did a couple of years back. One of those wire brush thingies on a drill to get the paint off. Quick clean to get the grease off, then clear powder coat.
    This is how I got it.


  • ^that's raw, mine is rare.

  • No mates, let me know how you get on, I might be throwing them up a frame for a winter build.

    I only just found out about there and had stripped a frame by hand and rattle canned it. could have got them to do it all for me for about a tenner more ffs.

    Hi playford,

    Took my frame up to Universal last Wednesday picked it up today. Dealt with an elderly gent, John, I think his name was. He was very helpful and had obviously done a few frames in the past. The choice of colours wasn't great, seemed keen to use what they had in stock which is understandable. I wasn't too fussed on the colour so suited me fine. Oyster white forks (RAL 1013) and Delphinium Blue (BS4800 18 E 51) frame I ended up with and am happy enough. Charged me 40 quid to blast and powder coat 2 colours, not bad at all but you get what you pays for...

    The forks aren't great, colours a bit thin, almost as if it needed another coat (can't do that with p/c can you?) and there's a sort of hammerite texture to it up close. Frame is a better job, no hammerite effect. There's a few spots where the paint hasn't taken, the seat pin area is a bit of a bollox and the BB threads have some paint on them.

    I'd use them again but I'd maybe go to the hassle of masking up the frame myself after it was blasted.

    Pics here, my 'good' camera is outa juice but the pics would probably have still turned out this shit with it sorry:-

    http://picasaweb.google.com/norman.mckissick/Concorde?feat=directlink

  • thats not a bad job, fs I must have spent 40 quid and about three days stripping then rattle canning my raleigh lol It's not as nice as that too.

    That looks pretty liveable with for your average frame, nothing worth 100's but looks serviceable.

  • Yeah, it's my first go at building up a bike so it was 40 quid well spent.

  • me too, mines just a beater old raleigh fixed gear and its been as much of a learning curve as anything.

  • Tell me about it, the 80's bike I bought has cost me as much in pin spanners, bottom bracket wrenches and feck knows what else and its nowhere near finished yet.

  • Heres mine, just a very basic commuter.

  • Ha - same colour as mine!

  • You can spray another layer of clearcoat over the applied decals, for that extra peace of mind. Cans of the stuff can be purchased are places like Halfrauds.

    Don't get it from halfords ...it's shite, get it from the paint factors place around the back of bethnal green on tent street...they do single pack acrylic in cans that sprays really nicely..

    I can put decals on if needed...I did a geurciotti for Dad on the forum and you can see the frame on my profile...if you want a hand thats cool too.

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Powder coating - Aurum / Vaz / Armourtex / Respray gallery

Posted by Avatar for Raouligan @Raouligan

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