Nice light wheels

Doms ones?

Yeah, I like them a lot and think they'll make my slave a lot lighter.

With those new wheels and cranks alone I've shed over 1.5kg and getting a few components that just happen to be lighter then what is currently on there so should be close to the 6kg mark soon enough with no weight weenie parts.

I've got some nice lightish wheels coming as soon as I can afford

Chub hubs front and rear
sapim bladed spokes
Velocity a23 32hole rims.
about 1.5kg for the set

Nice, I'm halfway through building a set of American classic road hubs on Kinlin xr300. Should be sub 1400, just. I might stick veloplugs in and get proper weight weenie..

Sounds good, can you get some pics when you're done?

What spokes are you lacing them with?

I've got that exact wheelset Indra, apart from non-bladed spokes. s'alright. Go for Veloplugs too.

I might do if they don't come with tape already, how're you liking yours?

The wheels or the veloplugs?

Both are fine. I like the 23mm profile, means you can really chuck them through some corners

The wheels, the wheels.
If I hadn't found them if have gone for archetypes anyway.

Mine will be with cx ray, race wheels innit ;)

Unfortunately chicken are out of stock of half the ones I need.. Laced most of the rear the other night, 2x.

Indra, why bladed spokes if you're going for 32 spokes? Not gonna be much faster, but they'll be weaker and loads more expensive.

They're built all ready umopip3sdnsisidos

Fair dos, I should really read posts more carefully.

Mine will be with cx ray, race wheels innit ;)

CX-Rays are wonderful spokes but horribly expensive. They provide no real aerodynamic benefit for standard wheels and their fatigue resistance is moot.. The mix of a 450+g clincher rim and CX-Rays is nothing short of... uneconomical.. to say the least.. Want light wheels...? Get light tubular rims.. since we are talking about 110/120mm single sprocket rear wheels--- and not multispeed--- there is absolutely nothing against using old school 300g class rims. Spokes..? DT Revs are a pain to build with but they are comparatively cheap...

Nope. I don't need another set of tubs, and these are road wheels. The rims are 450+ but, more than a light wheelset I wanted a decent set of clinchers that I can train, race on and repair/replace bits relatively easily. I already had the rims (if I was buying new would get 270's or Stans Alpha but heyho). The hubs and spokes at trade also make them much cheaper than factory built alternatives (rs80 et al). When I get cat 2 I will get some more carbon tubs. But for now these will suit fine.

I wanted a decent set of clinchers that I can train, race on and repair/replace bits relatively easily.

Then instead of CX-Rays use db spokes--- or even straight 15 guage. CX-Rays are quite difficult to get right. For all purpose road wheels you really are best served, I think, with DT Comps or Sapim Race. Cost less than 1/4 of the CX-Rays, are easier to build and maintain and .. make great wheels.. What was good enough for the TdF a few years ago.. and still good enough for the Spring classics (when the rider is not using some deep section carbon wheels) is clearly... For racing you might want to get straight guage since they are easier to tension--- that's why before the boutique wheels hit the peleton many team mechanics would build with them instead of their double butted siblings.

Save the CX-Rays for groovy all-out special wheels..

My rims are starting to get a bit thin so I'm looking to get them changed. They are Alex Ace 19's which came as stock. As I know nothing about what is good or not can anyone recommend what to go for for a replacement?

Alternately, I may consider a new set of wheels. What is good for about up to £150 with 700c, 135mm spacing and a flip flop hub.

Out of curiosity how come a flip flop and 135mm spacing?

And how many holes/spoke how does your current wheelset have?

Rough cost on rims will be £35-£100 depending on what you're willing to spend. New spokes will be £15-60 again depending what you want to spend.

Pompetaminez maybe?

^^ Present wheels have just a free hub so it was just a case of do I replace the rims on present wheels and just keep the free hub or get a new set with a flip flop hub instead?

Not sure on the number of spokes, I'll check when I get home. Just trying to work out various cost for either scenario. Say £50 for rims?

Yep, they were a bit of a pain to build with, luckily I have a good wheel builder at hand to get them perfect for me. And I had enough for one wheel lying around, so I only had to buy one box. Couldn't bring myself to use plain guage on race wheels..

Then instead of CX-Rays use db spokes--- or even straight 15 guage. CX-Rays are quite difficult to get right. For all purpose road wheels you really are best served, I think, with DT Comps or Sapim Race. Cost less than 1/4 of the CX-Rays, are easier to build and maintain and .. make great wheels.. What was good enough for the TdF a few years ago.. and still good enough for the Spring classics (when the rider is not using some deep section carbon wheels) is clearly... For racing you might want to get straight guage since they are easier to tension--- that's why before the boutique wheels hit the peleton many team mechanics would build with them instead of their double butted siblings.

Save the CX-Rays for groovy all-out special wheels..

^^ 32 spokes

bump.
I have managed to find some bolt-on novatecs wih solid high flange.
I have spoken to a machinist (from on here) and he said that cutting the flange off to make it low should not be a problem, that will also allow for custom drilling 24h front/28h rear using the dividing head.

the hub body is beefier at the flange sides, so it should not affect it structurally also.
Will update the thread with the weight once this is done, quite possibly a bit will be shaved off the mid area too depending on couple of factors.

stoked!

http://i40.tinypic.com/2wfl44i.jpg

^ Nice. Do you have a pic of the bolt on side?

^^ Present wheels have just a free hub so it was just a case of do I replace the rims on present wheels and just keep the free hub or get a new set with a flip flop hub instead?

Unless you need a fixed sprocket I'd reckon on a free hub being better than a screw on free wheel. Without pics or some proper detials of your wheels and bike setup it's hard to give any suggestions, but basically I'd probably just rebuild the wheels if they had decent hubs or just buy a new set and keep the hubs in a parts box for spares.

I think he means bolt on as in allen bolts instead of 15mm track nuts.

Anyhow, looking good Marcin!

Should speak to the machinist about putting lockring thread on the freewheel side!

I think he means bolt on as in allen bolts instead of 15mm track nuts.

this, sorry for being unclear.

Should speak to the machinist about putting lockring thread on the freewheel side!

did, too tricky unfortunately. there will be purpose for this side nevertheless so it's all good.