Current Projects chat and miscellany

Work still in progress, have to find proper riding position and change the front brake to mini-V because of insane brake shudder.

Try moving pads so they taper into rim.

Try moving pads so they taper into rim. Sound like rear of block catching first.

Tried already and it doesn't help that the lever is very sensitive so little touch starts it.

A fork mounted cable hanger can help.

Are you running a magic gear?

What's the plan for the GT miro_o?

No hole on fork

Yes magic gear, thinking to get 1x10 later. or sooner if the chain starts to drop.

What's the frame? Looks good!

change the front brake to mini-V because of insane brake shudder.

Try moving pads so they taper into rim.

A fork mounted cable hanger can help

Mini-V is the correct answer, unless you have a perverse desire to spend the rest of your life trying (unsuccessfully) to make cantilevers almost as good.

What's the frame? Looks good!

Condor baracchi 2005 bought from classifieds and some ritchey carbon forks.

Mini-V is the correct answer, unless you have a perverse desire to spend the rest of your life trying (unsuccessfully) to make cantilevers almost as good.

Do mini-v's work with most frames designed for cantilevers?
Josephine could use some new cantis, but if mini-v's are better....

Do mini-v's work with most frames designed for cantilevers?
Josephine could use some new cantis, but if mini-v's are better....

I think this helps when using mini-V with road levers.

You don't need a travel agent with Mini-V, that's the whole point of their being mini. Boss position is the same as for cantilevers, not saying there won't be the odd frame out there which has weird boss spacing to make your life harder but 99% of frames and forks made for cantilevers will take Mini-V without issue.

Finished!

Rad! Needs a Mike Burrows aero post.

Mini-V is the correct answer, unless you have a perverse desire to spend the rest of your life trying (unsuccessfully) to make cantilevers almost as good.

If mini-v's are better why do pros race cross on cantis? Tradition?

mud clearance, but that's only applicable to for when it's really bad, and the fact that they've got mechanics who's full time job it is to dial they're bike, including brakes

They're moving towards discs. Some of them are on mini-Vs. The hold-outs on wide-profile cantilevers are used to them (my brakes have always felt like this, I don't want to learn something new), perceive that they hold less mud in sticky conditions, and have the benefit of full time mechanics to keep them fettled. More than any other brake design, wide profile cantilevers leverage ratio changes as cables stretch and pads wear down. If you've got a mechanic to replace pads every race and cables every week, that's not a problem.

Yeah, what he said :-)

lol ;)

I have built many classics from the 50s/60s but just about to venture into a new era. I have a Colnago Master X-Light just over 10 years old and plan to fit 9-speed Dura Ace group set.

The chainset and bottom bracket will be Octalink. I have two bottom bracket units, one is a 7700 which is ideally matched but used. The other is an unused 6500.

Is the 6500 compatible with the 7700 cranks?

Yes, they are both 109.5mm Octalink v.1

The BB-7700 can be serviced, so it's worth taking it apart and re-greasing if the bearings are basically in good condition.

Yup, if the length's are the same.

edit. what Tester said.

Fiddly job but oddly rewarding servicing them, keep an eye on the bits!

Thanks, they are both 109.5 and Italian threads of course. The new one is minus left hand 'cup' so I would use the one from the 7700. I read on Ebay that the 105 version was not compatible for some reason.