Current Projects chat and miscellany

Worth every penny.

Hmm, cheers guys, food for thought, don't need a pair as it'll be going on the front of my gangsta, which is the year round commuter, hence the disc. Will look into the spyre.

My main reasons for the disc are maintenance based, no lengthy rim change etc with stopping power only being a factor for the wet and weight not really being an issue at all. Why do you reckon the spyre is 100x better tm?

The pads auto adjust. More powerful. http://road.cc/content/review/90569-trp-spyre-mechanical-disc-brake

Don't me me started otherwise I'll end up buying some!

Spyre is a better choice because setting it up is easier due to the pads being self-adjusted, BB7 Road is just as powerful but required careful set up because it's one sided.

Edit - fucking JB got there first.

Ed's selling them short, incomparable.

What bars you running though? Quite a few hydro discs for sale on here at the min for use with risers/flats....

U haz malayshun?

I haz bb7 road, which I've spent hours fucking about with... even have a travel agent... And they gave great braking for about 2 weeks, and have needed further fucking about so I've just been riding the fixed...

Have ridden Tp88's Spyres, fresh out the box, no fucking around, excellent.

Haha ed, and jb that ^^^^^ is beginning to happen here already ^^ lol. thanks for the link though, on phone so couldn't really search to much, read that article though and I think my mind's made up!

I'm new to discs so an easier set up and easier maintenance seems to tick all the boxes

And TM, risers for now but want to have the option to use drops levers too if I want to put drops on

TM, you just need compressionless, no travel agent needed.

I'm putting together this mini-Argos, 650c , 853 tubing, Veloce 10 speed for my little sister. It looks quite cute next to a normal-sized bike:

Makes the chainrings look pretty epic too.

When in reality, an identical drivetrain will give a lighter gear.
Trickery, I tell thee!

Longer wheelbase?

Should I base the change of cassette and chain on the mileage or is there any other measure?

Chain wear indicator?

Yeah, replace chain regularly and when it stops meshing with the cassette nicely the cassette is wearing, use that chain and then replace cassette and chain. Mileage is subjective because it can be influenced by conditions

Sheldon Brown says:

Measuring Chain Wear
The standard way to measure chain wear is with a ruler or steel tape measure. This can be done without removing the chain from the bicycle. The normal technique is to measure a one-foot length, placing an inch mark of the ruler at the side of one link pin, then looking at the corresponding link pin 12 complete links away. On a new, unworn chain, this link pin will also line up exactly with an inch mark. With a worn chain, the link pin will be past the inch mark. [For accurate measurement, the chain should be held under some tension -- either on the bicycle, or hanging. Also, use a metal ruler or tape measure. Wood, plastic and cloth all can expand or shrink.-- John Allen]
This gives a direct measurement of the wear to the chain, and an indirect measurement of the wear to the sprockets. first, let's look at how to do this with a ruler that measures in inches.

If the link pin is less than 1/16" past the mark, all is well.
If the link pin is 1/16" past the mark, you should replace the chain, but the sprockets are probably undamaged.
If the link pin is 1/8" past the mark, you have left it too long, and the sprockets (at least the favorite ones) will be too badly worn. If you replace a chain at the 1/8" point, without replacing the sprockets, it may run OK and not skip, but the worn sprockets will cause the new chain to wear much faster than it should, until it catches up with the wear state of the sprockets.
If the link pin is past the 1/8" mark, a new chain will almost certainly skip on the worn sprockets, especially the smaller ones.

Replacing chain more often than you should will preserve your drivetrain nicely, my dad's old Peugeot is still on its original crankset and freewheel just because he replaced the chain every 1500-2000 miles.

please do!

Hey, 14mph on a commute is about what I average, with an average of maybe 19-20 on faster rides. I wasn't tryin to call you slow.

Always helps push me to hear I could do better though! I would like to pick this average up a notch when the spring arrives.

But he'd still be faster if he learned to pedal, especially on a commute type ride. You can get away with mashing at 60rpm on a dragstrip TT course where the only acceleration is at the start and maybe the turn, but around town you really lose time if you can't get back up to speed quickly

Hence if you look at the run, it is a bit of a drag strip although I did a few detours this time as I needed to take the 'short' rather than 'fast' route. If I finish late this eve I'll attempt a speed run, exciting!

So your idea cadence is 60rpm?

Most times yes. I feel it helps me personally for some reason, no idea really. Stubborn setup I suppose. I was on the 52-13 with my road bike for ages until the derailleur hanger snapped for the 5th time so I thought it was time to switch to fixed. Snap of the old work horse that I really need to get ready for summer long distance ;_;

Perhaps eddygordouk is just Nik Bowdler's lfgss alias?

^^Where is that? If it's anywhere between Eastbourne and Hastings, I'll be the old bloke doing 18mph average on 48/18, I'll wave.

Sheldon Brown says:

Measuring Chain Wear
The standard way to measure chain wear is with a ruler or steel tape measure. This can be done without removing the chain from the bicycle. The normal technique is to measure a one-foot length, placing an inch mark of the ruler at the side of one link pin, then looking at the corresponding link pin 12 complete links away. On a new, unworn chain, this link pin will also line up exactly with an inch mark. With a worn chain, the link pin will be past the inch mark. [For accurate measurement, the chain should be held under some tension -- either on the bicycle, or hanging. Also, use a metal ruler or tape measure. Wood, plastic and cloth all can expand or shrink.-- John Allen]
This gives a direct measurement of the wear to the chain, and an indirect measurement of the wear to the sprockets. first, let's look at how to do this with a ruler that measures in inches.

If the link pin is less than 1/16" past the mark, all is well.
If the link pin is 1/16" past the mark, you should replace the chain, but the sprockets are probably undamaged.
If the link pin is 1/8" past the mark, you have left it too long, and the sprockets (at least the favorite ones) will be too badly worn. If you replace a chain at the 1/8" point, without replacing the sprockets, it may run OK and not skip, but the worn sprockets will cause the new chain to wear much faster than it should, until it catches up with the wear state of the sprockets.
If the link pin is past the 1/8" mark, a new chain will almost certainly skip on the worn sprockets, especially the smaller ones.

TL:DR

replace your chain every 3000 km and cassette when shifting get sloppy. Change rings when you can lift a new chain for than 3mm (pinching it an the front of the c'ring).

If you're really semi-pro have 2 chains (of the same age) on the go. One on the bike and one sitting in degreaser.

I've never been organised enough to get that going though.