Current Projects chat and miscellany

I have a terrible feeling this is the new thing for 2009, stock up on them white tyres while you can!

awesome bike vello

awesome bike vello

Thanks! I had to ride it for work at lunch time (Putney to Sloane Sq and back) and it feels good... Really need to find a smaller chainring though! This 50X17 is killing me, especially on a windy bridge!

Szia

Loic

cheers fellas.

andyp - yeah it was on the bay and i was in contact with the seller with a few questions. anyway, forgot to bid cos got my time mixed up. the buyer who won it reneged and the seller was in contact so all worked out sweet. bought it without bb and chainset pictured which is fine with me as have spare crankset.

Looks like it'll be a sweet new ride. And I'll be giving you back your cranks tonight, no excuses!

It sound like a tandem track hubs + rims, at least that what I think, in that case, a tandem rims is the answer?

quick search in google got some result http://www.google.co.uk/products?hl=en&safe=off&client=firefox-a&rls=org.mozilla:en-GB:official&hs=RdH&q=40+holes+rims&um=1&ie=UTF-8&ei=F8b4SfyiCs_RjAeh4JHYDA&sa=X&oi=product_result_group&resnum=4&ct=title

32h front/40h back was a common config for track a while ago

Beater project finished, total outgoings £36, and it's got better chainline, fits me slightly better and is slightly lighter than my £700 track bike, hmmm....

Also I found that you don't necessarily need to mess about with respacing and redishing your wheel if it's a 120mm in 126 dropouts if it's steel. You can just tighten the nuts up and squash the stays in a bit, this also allows for a degree of adjustment re. chainline.

I still need to find a chain ring. since this one is 50!! (my sproket is 17) I am looking for a 44 chainring, for shimano 5 pins spider (130 bcd I suppose?) and short chainring bolts since I am too lazzy cutting the ones I have...
Also I still need to finish to shave all the brazed on bits...

Man up (if u are a man)! Ignore the pain, the ache and you will be rewarded with glorious thighs of thunder and calves of steel.

Also DON'T shave off the brazed bits. When you come to sell / wish to convert to geared/ wish to simply put a full mudguard on the back you'll regret it!

Nice frame and high BB, double plus.

Also I found that you don't necessarily need to mess about with respacing and redishing your wheel if it's a 120mm in 126 dropouts if it's steel. You can just tighten the nuts up and squash the stays in a bit, this also allows for a degree of adjustment re. chainline.

Mos' def. My Dawes has spent the last 10 years with axles either too big or too small.

Beater project finished, total outgoings £36, and it's got better chainline, fits me slightly better and is slightly lighter than my £700 track bike, hmmm....

Oh that happen, my old Peugeot 103 tubing bike were lighter than an OTP Bianchi Pista!

althought I think track bike are usually (well frame-wise) slighty heavier than road frame due to it's need to be stiff as possible.

can someone shed more light on this? I doubt I got my fact right.

yes ed, its true.

Road bikes are designed to flex to be more comfortable, where as indeed track bikes are for velodromes so are designed to be as stiff as possible. I do however think Bianch use this as an excuse for their heavy bikes. It is possible to make a light & stiff bike.

I mean, does track bike's tubing tend to be slighty thicker (beside the difference in geometry) than your typical road bike in order to keep it as stiff as possible? regardless of the tubing?

edit - especially according to wiki; "A track frame is specific to its use. Rigidity is more important than lightness"

Beater project finished, total outgoings £36, and it's got better chainline, fits me slightly better and is slightly lighter than my £700 track bike, hmmm.....

Could you share how you managed to get this built for that money?!?!?! I want to build a beater for grocery shopping but I always tend to think it would at least cost me a couple of hundred quids to do that...

the key part is usually the bike itself, if you can managed, you can easily pick a complete bike for £50, even £20, and all that left to do is finding an 2nd hand fixed rear wheel and your usual bit and bob from this forum.

Man up (if u are a man)! Ignore the pain, the ache and you will be rewarded with glorious thighs of thunder and calves of steel.
Also DON'T shave off the brazed bits. When you come to sell / wish to convert to geared/ wish to simply put a full mudguard on the back you'll regret it!
Nice frame and high BB, double plus.

Hi,

Yes to the man question.
I definitely can't keep that 50X17!! My knees hurt since yesterday, I need to use the front brake to skid, and I can't carry easily my Latte in the morning when I arrive to work because I need to push so hard on the pedals, too tough on slopes with one hand only! 44 it will be, as soon as possible...

Too late for the shaving, I started already and I will not stop... I really want to keep this frame and its destiny is to be fixed! Sorry for the puppy killing... BTW does this apply to old MTBs too? I want to clarify that I never shaved any road frames! I though early 90s MTBs where OK for that... Please accept my apologies!

Szia

Loic

try and get a 24t cog mate, shouldn't be hard (Brixton Cycles, Cavendish, etc.) easier to change than a chainring.

Could you share how you managed to get this built for that money?!?!?! I want to build a beater for grocery shopping but I always tend to think it would at least cost me a couple of hundred quids to do that...

Bought a geared racer from hippy for £50, stripped it down, sold the brakes for £10, the two chainrings for £8, the rear wheel for £15, rear derailleur for £5. I spent £24 on the pedals and powergrips. A very kind person gave me a 19T cog, I used a chainring from my spares box which was luckily the right bcd and tooth count and then cobbled together all the bits of 1/8th chain I had. I then trued a friend's wheels in exchange for a 'permanent loan' type situation of a back wheel, basically I can have it but if he ever needs it back for a few days it's his.

try and get a 24t cog mate, shouldn't be hard (Brixton Cycles, Cavendish, etc.) easier to change than a chainring.

Thanks, but I can't do that, it's magic gear (more or less magic...) If I go for bigger sproket, I need to re-attach left-overs of the chain (as it would then be too short), I don't really like doing that, or to buy a new chain, I'd like to avoid that...

Loic

Slightly better picture

Just waiting for some Ellis-Briggs transfers to arrive then it will be complete. I tried to make it quite understated.

Where you out in Victoria Park last night with a girl on a pink free wheel bike?

Working on my first build based around a resprayed Genesis Flyer frame, Reynolds forks, Sugino Track 48T crankset, King headset and MKS Sylvan pedals that I've just bought off the forum. My budget is low but I think that I will be able to assemble a decent ride. I need a decent pair of wheels (flip-flop, anyone got any?). I'm really enjoying looking for components and find it more preferable than otp plus you can get s/h parts for great vfm in Classified & Shopping.

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Love the purple!

Where you out in Victoria Park last night with a girl on a pink free wheel bike?

Yeah, we just went for a lil ride around the park for some fresh air.

I love getting big boxes in the post...

Interesting looking slotted drop-outs, looks like its going to be single speed. Must be by new....

On-One Scandal 29er, in a very rare and very bright pink. Now I just need to wait for the blue anodised bits to turn up.

cool.

I just built this up this morning. The photo\s inverted for some reason so it isn't actually left hand drive, it just looks like that. Probably do some better quality photos later.

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Love it, you shot it off your macbook right?
always the same.