Current Projects chat and miscellany

so adjusted bars on Chinvelo this morning and rode to work (again with a backpack) but now it fits even better! Which means either RHM or PX Strada will fit like a glove and could very well slam the stem!

It rides really fucking well. The power transfer is astonishing. And the stays make it surprisingly comfortable even with 29mm wide rims.

Would recommend/ride.

Here's a mockup of the partsbin bruiser...obviously I'm waiting for some other wheels and 2.2" tyres

And here's a closeup of the problem:

The disc brake had opened up the closed forkend so the sliding dropout no longer sits tight. Braking/skids etc will shift the wheel to the point that a 2.2" tyre rubs.

Options? Has anyone had this before?

do I
a) bash it closed again with a hammer
b) pay moneyz to a framebuilder to close it up and braze a 'bridge' in to stop it happening again
c) find another frame?

can I just saw the ends off and put a 135 OLD wheel in?, the OLD with the sliders in is 120. the spacing of the closed ends is 138.

Sawing the ends off sounds like genius, are the ends big enough to fit an axle in?

yes they are exactly right.

and the Geo is still legit, BB higher than the Plum

I'd try that, or maybe try washers (possibly serrated or textured) on the outside of the dropouts between the bolts and the face first, to provide more surface area as it looks like thats the failing of the design?

here:

I'd try that, or maybe try washers (possibly serrated or textured) on the outside of the dropouts between the bolts and the face first, to provide more surface area as it looks like thats the failing of the design?

1+

I'd def give washers a shout first, rather than hacking the dropout to pieces. My main concern would be that if you cut the back end off it would compromise the strength of the whole dropout - there's not much metal at the front if you make it open ended.

I'd try that, or maybe try washers (possibly serrated or textured) on the outside of the dropouts between the bolts and the face first, to provide more surface area as it looks like thats the failing of the design?

This is mine, as you can see it is supposed to have a washer (but that serves little purpose)

the problem is that the rotational force on the two bolts is too high for the design.

that's why it's done in two parts now with a bridge in the middle:

I used to use washers, didn't help.

The problem is the dropout is now too wide for the slider.

hammertime.

My main concern would be that if you cut the back end off it would compromise the strength of the whole dropout - there's not much metal at the front if you make it open ended.

True, but it's not exactly made of tinfoil, will it be such a problem?

B4 hacksawing the dropout what about making a spacer to brace the gap?

Or even drilling / tapping end to accommodate bolt like an old campy drop out?

Could even try a chain tug?

not sure I'm following you... how old are we talking?

if you use a 135 bolt on type hub you wouldn't even have to saw the end of the slide, no?
you'd just have to remove the bolts entirely when taking the wheel in/out.

^^gotcha

^true

the other thing I was thinking was to slam the sliders to the front where the dropouts are OK and just find a magic gear. scratch that, they're not.

2½ years later it became sscx wonderland

From

To

10/10 for transformation!

what's even left from the original? the modified frame?

Separates the men from the hipsters.

The chain might be too tight no ?
you are going to lose your rear wheel no ?

This is mine, as you can see it is supposed to have a washer (but that serves little purpose)

the problem is that the rotational force on the two bolts is too high for the design.

that's why it's done in two parts now with a bridge in the middle:

Both these have bolts. Do yours ? Surely that would help to stop them sliding. Until you posted this I was thinking of the same idea with the old dropouts as posted above. Now it looks like you might just be missing a part.

Also what about bigger bolts/nuts to secure the dropout?

I would suggest some sort of vice to compress the dropouts rather than a hammer.

Also doesn t the washer spread the force and provide more grip? Or have people who have this setup confirmed it is superfluous?

here:

If your thinking of doing this with my wheels, the axels are to short for 135

Ha. Yeah look like you just need a couple a bolts!

UNLESS ITS SLIDING THE OTHER WAY

LFGSS Strikes again....

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