Current Projects chat and miscellany

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  • I use these. I thought they might be really poor quality (they are cheap) but they're fine.

  • Avoid Ti ones, they are not stiff enough. If you just want a basic Allen Key skewer, the Halo ones are cheap and widely available

  • This is my first part build. Got it off the forum last Wednesday and after a week of sourcing parts, I spent Friday putting it together. In my day of education about how to put a bike partly together, I found out that CycleSurgery gave me completely the wrong advice about chains and had to buy a a chain tool on Friday at 9pm (Thank you CyclePS). There's still stuff to finish off, but its nearly there!

    this looks nice, well done

  • Bars and stem are letting the side down a bit

  • Love it! Looks so clean, so perfect... Just love them Colnagos :)

  • Bars and stem are letting the side down a bit

  • Bars, stem and pedals are letting the side down a bit

    .

  • In current projects, I'm prepared to overlook SPDs on road bikes, they have a utility, depending on what sort of rides you go on.

  • Pedals are just to get the bike running. However, I do need something to walk in, as this is going to be my commuter bike. I've got some Eustars coming as the basic Shimano's are half a kilo!

    And what's wrong with the bars and stem? :-) Bars are Deda 215 Shallow, and the stem is the easiest I could get in my size for the time being. Recommendations?

  • *hereĀ“s one
    f23k all da haters and do as you please

    :-)
    *

  • I'd go with some Soma Highway One's and a Cinelli 1a.

  • And what's wrong with the bars and stem?

    If you like them, nothing; this is Current Projects, not Porn. The old-school bend doesn't give a flat transition to the hoods, which a lot of us like. A more modern bend like, for example, Deda RHM01 would, and the shorter throw would allow you to use a more aesthetically pleasing length of stem, and while you're changing length swap to something a little less clunky e.g. a Deda Zero1

  • I'd go with some Soma Highway One's and a Cinelli 1a.

    Unfortunately its got a threadless headset. I'm not quite sure how that would work?

  • I'd go with some Soma Highway One's and a Cinelli 1a.

    If you like them, nothing; this is Current Projects, not Porn. The old-school bend doesn't give a flat transition to the hoods, which a lot of us like. A more modern bend like, for example, Deda RHM01 would, and the shorter throw would allow you to use a more aesthetically pleasing length of stem, and while you're changing length swap to something a little less clunky e.g. a Deda Zero1

    The bars came with the frame, but they're 42cm, and I prefer something a little narrower. I was looking at the RHM01 but its black or white, and I was trying to get a bit of a shiny aesthetic going on. Is Deda Zero1 painted or anodised?

  • Soon I should be the owner of this Argos road fixed frame to match my lo pro. It's a touch small at 23" but no smaller than my current commuter frame. Very excited to pick it up.

    http://i.ebayimg.com/t/gents-bicycle-with-Argos-cycles-of-Bristol-frame-/00/s/MTIwMFgxNjAw/z/J0gAAOxy6-tSAOmh/$T2eC16R,!yEE9s5jFRfCBS!Omgq05g~~60_12.JPG

  • Components are crap but I reckon the frame is the real deal - Campag track ends with eyelets etc.

  • what's wrong with the bars

    The Deda 215 was one of Armstrong's favourite bars ... Enough said!

    Seriously though .. Looks like you levers are a touch low on the bars.

    Another thought for finishing kit is to have a look at Ritchey Classic range. I can't say for certain about the Classic range but the graphics on the WCS range are only screen printed and can be stripped with acetone very easily if they're not to your taste.

    In my opinion, like saddles and other contact points, it really comes down to what shape bars you like to ride and not what the forum opinion is ..

  • Is Deda Zero1 painted or anodised?

    Black ones are anodised, red and white ones are paint.

  • The Deda 215 was one of Armstrong's favourite bars ... Enough said!

    I didn't know about the Armstrong connection!

    Seriously though .. Looks like you levers are a touch low on the bars.

    And I don't think the levers go any higher? They're just about at the point where the bar starts to curve and they'll start sticking out. And its where the cable grooves are too.

    Although I do need to take the levers off and put spacers inside, as they were an ebay special and had a little bit missing.

  • on this note zipp service course sl short and shallow are the best bar I have ever ridden bar none. A*

  • I don't think the levers go any higher.

    The reason I suggested that was because the usual way, is to set the bottom tip of the lever with a straight edge so it's level with an imaginary line along the bottom of the bars. Although, it may be the angle of your pic throwing me off ..


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  • Using a bar like that pictured would yield some pretty subjective results, it has virtually no straight drop section.

  • Ignore the unravelling bartape and hold an imaginary ruler to the underside of the drop section:

    I agree this "rule" doesn't really work with modern shallow drop bars:

    But with traditional deeper drops it works very well:

  • This is my first part build. Got it off the forum last Wednesday and after a week of sourcing parts, I spent Friday putting it together. In my day of education about how to put a bike partly together, I found out that CycleSurgery gave me completely the wrong advice about chains and had to buy a a chain tool on Friday at 9pm (Thank you CyclePS). There's still stuff to finish off, but its nearly there!

    What's the seatpost?

  • ^^ Yours seems to have a longer straight section, and has the levers higher in an (also) approved position.
    edit king - referring to your top pic

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Current Projects chat and miscellany

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