Current Projects chat and miscellany

I have the Kalloy campag/aero type in a box somewhere. It works ok and looks ok but is pretty heavy.

Cut it in half! easiest solution (I did that with the uber-long Nitto seatpost on a bicycle that doesn't have a lots showing).

^ I'm about to do this, how much length of post needs to be left to insert into the seattube?

Just measure the minimum insertion, put it in the frame at the right height, add a band of tape just above the clamp, then remove and cut exactly the minimum insertion below the line of tape.

Cheers. Sounds obvious once it's pointed out...

^ I'm about to do this, how much length of post needs to be left to insert into the seattube?

Whichever is greater out of 50mm/2" and ¼ of the total seat post length, and disregard any seat tube extension above the top tube.

Thanks also. By 1/4 of the length do you mean that 1/4 is inserted and 3/4 is showing, or that the inserted section is 1/4 of the length of the sticking out bit (i.e. 4/5 showing and 1/5 inserted)?
P.S. how do you get fractions to go nice?

¼ is inserted and ¾ is showing

↑This

P.S. how do you get fractions to go nice?

Unicode
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/List_of_Unicode_characters#Number_Forms

Stick with Thompson, superior in looks and clamp. Used both, kalloy failed.

Used both, kalloy failed.

Which Kalloy? There are dozens of different models, never had any trouble with the SP-248 (or any of the others, for that matter)

Been riding around on this old leader frame swapped out the saddle for an Arione
and grabbed some new bar tape and tyre's, shud hold out for a while could do with
a decent crankset as well tbh. The badger did 40miles today plenty of whip skids.

I have the Kalloy campag/aero type in a box somewhere. It works ok and looks ok but is pretty heavy.

Cut it in half! easiest solution (I did that with the uber-long Nitto seatpost on a bicycle that doesn't have a lots showing).

Then I could fit it in a smaller box! Cheers Ed.

lol

Which Kalloy? There are dozens of different models, never had any trouble with the SP-248 (or any of the others, for that matter)

Flawed design. The slug eventually wears to the point that the teeth slip and clamp rotates. The clamp should not be sat on a curve in the first place.

New wheels (and king cages) on the Pinarello:

Front is alternative to Zipp (built it after breaking two spokes in a week and having only one spare), but I quite like the skinny look (rim is CX18).

^^ Only if you constantly adjusted the saddle position regularly a la Skirt Love.

Just came across this and having wild ideas for an upgrade to my Alan...

New wheels (and king cages) on the Pinarello:

Front is alternative to Zipp (built it after breaking two spokes in a week and having only one spare), but I quite like the skinny look (rim is CX18).

^^ that is beauty on wheels ^^

Much obliged :)

^^ Only if you constantly adjusted the saddle position regularly a la Skirt Love.

Thompson has a much larger meshing surface area plus 2 bolts for stability. No argument.

My thomson has slipped and moves over time but my BBB £10 seatpost never did. sue me

Must be because it's a layback. :-S

Flawed design. The slug eventually wears to the point that the teeth slip and clamp rotates. The clamp should not be sat on a curve in the first place.

The SP-248 doesn't have teeth, it has a bi-conical interface like a C-Record. You must be thinking of a different Kalloy model.

Conical or not, the point remains the clamp head should not be sat on a polished curve with a single bolt. I thought bind was nurled (teeth) Still, monumentally shit. B-)

A seatpost is a stick.