Current Projects chat and miscellany

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  • hum. well, still possible to drill a hole to stop it spreading down further, pics would help. depending where, i'd still consider riding it with a long post as a beater.

  • hum. well, still possible to drill a hole to stop it spreading down further, pics would help. depending where, i'd still consider riding it with a long post as a beater.

    It has got quite a long post as it is but I don't need a beater, I need a batterable cx/commuter. Hence paying for the powdercoat.

  • might be the powdercoat that's weakened it if it's 853-I understood it can't be repaired as the heat from re-welding/brazing the tubes actually weakens the steel after it's original manufacture. Or it's just bad luck : /

    sorry anyway!

  • might be the powdercoat that's weakened it if it's 853

    The heat cycle of powder coating is way below the annealing temperature of steel, so it won't affect it.

  • It's on t he side unfortunately.

    That's where you'd expect the top of the seat tube on a CX bike to crack, due to the abnormal stress from re-mounts

  • 853 isn't exactly bombproof

    No material is bomb proof, but of all the cycle steels, 853 is probably the second most ballistically resistant (after 953), and it will certainly be much better than RHA

  • I think it's 753 that can't be repaired then-do you know why? And when they talk about air 'curing' steel after it's been built what do they mean?

  • I'll be getting a frame bag made up by BikePack to keep center of gravity as low and central as possible, and debating using one of their saddle bags as a light bar bag.

    centre of gravity is moot, as long it's packed and installed properly and the bicycle can handle a rack/panniers, it'll be fine.

  • Got the BMC all tied up this morning. Switched the calipers out, and fitted some completely inappropriate tyres for upcoming travels (taking a set of GP4000's as well, will see what the roads are like once I get there). Still deciding on bar height, so have not trimmed steerer yet!

    Come at me Africa!

  • Photo really does do justice to the frame colour, is it as stiff as they claimed to be?

  • I think it's 753 that can't be repaired then-do you know why? And when they talk about air 'curing' steel after it's been built what do they mean?

    753 is very sensitive to heat cycle, it might be hard to take a frame apart without damaging it.

    The 'air hardening' of 853 refers to the fact that it hardens on natural cooling after welding, rather than needing the cooling rate to be accelerated (quenching)

  • that bmc colorway is so much nicer than your typical ritte. I need one

  • Photo really does do justice to the frame colour, is it as stiff as they claimed to be?

    It's stiffer than a stiff thing! Still very comfortable though.

    that bmc colorway is so much nicer than your typical ritte. I need one

    I always loved this colourway when it was released in 2011 (it reminds me of the old Gulf Racing GT40), so was stoked when I found evans had a NOS one in my size... Was 50% off to boot!

  • centre of gravity is moot, as long it's packed and installed properly and the bicycle can handle a rack/panniers, it'll be fine.

    Can you recommend any good racks and panniers? Something strong enough for basic camping gear and a light tent on top, without the rack weighing silly amounts.

  • Best one for the money is the Tubus Fly (400g), the lightest and strongest rack you can buy for the money (bar the titanium one which is silly expensive), around £70.

    For budget, the Tortec Ultralight (440g) rear rack is brilliant despite being slightly heavier than the steel Fly, around £25.

    Alternately, bikepacking is cheaper than buying a rack and panniers with a decent saddlebag and handlebar bag (like those cheap Altura).

  • I'll check out the racks, thanks for that Ed.

    If going the bikepacking route, where would the tent go, or am I being stupid?!

    Have you got any recommendations for good waterproof panniers too?

    Also, is there any point to the racks that have a lower bar going across them; i.e.- you can but panniers lower and still have room for more on top, or is that more for luggage of expeditions than the 2-3weks light camping trip I'm planning?

  • A tan sidewall clincher tyre for a period correct 1980's build would be?

  • A modern tyre or something that was current then? Race bike or tourer?

  • not many clinchers are made with actual gumwall fabric. They are almost all gumwall colored rubber wich looks pretty lame imo.

  • ^ exactly these are what I meant. They look real plastic in person and way more yellow than they should

  • A tan sidewall clincher tyre for a period correct 1980's build would be?

    You missed these by a couple of weeks, 2 pairs of lovely 1980s NOS tyres. I had them back in the day, they were about the best thing available in the mid 80s.

  • If going the bikepacking route, where would the tent go, or am I being stupid?!

    Yes, take out the poles from the bag and strap it on the top tube.

    Your tent bag will be less than half the size now.

  • ^ exactly these are what I meant. They look real plastic in person and way more yellow than they should

    Both of those are real gum wall fabric though, aren't they? Just happens that the vittorias are very bright.

  • Vittoria have obviously put some yellow dye in the weathering layer over the fabric. I bet it reduced UV damage to the carcase, but it's not exactly classic looking

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Current Projects chat and miscellany

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