-
• #74002
problem?
almost centred:
definitely not centred:
what could it be?
i got the same problem with my low pro, steel 531 frame, don't notice a thing when riding it though
-
• #74003
I had that when an old wheel of mine wasn't dished correctly,
when the wheel is central in the chainstays, it's off center at the seat stay bridge
-
• #74004
Is there any play on the vertical axis when the axle is in place Apollo?
Might be that the wheel is indeed true and the wheel is perfectly straight from side to side, but is actually at an angle from top to bottom.
Would ride straight like that, but need to straighten it on both horizontal AND vertical planes.
-
• #74005
Had to finish a roll today so grabbed a couple of photos of my bike as it is right now, wish I could tighten up the clearance on the rear but if I take a couple of links out I can't get the wheel off without breaking the chain each time :(.
-
• #74006
going to fuck this up
-
• #74007
problem?
The No-Fork bike rides fine. The Lotus 108 with the wheels misaligned by 20mm rides fine. Stop worrying and ride your bike.
-
• #74008
-
• #74009
Had to finish a roll today so grabbed a couple of photos of my bike as it is right now, wish I could tighten up the clearance on the rear but if I take a couple of links out I can't get the wheel off without breaking the chain each time :(.
if you derail your chain off the chain ring you can take off the wheel.
it's very simple. -
• #74010
going over matte paint with rattlecan? yay or nay
-
• #74011
^^^ does the guy riding the bike behind have haemorrhoids?
-
• #74012
if you derail your chain off the chain ring you can take off the wheel.
it's very simple.No dice, the axel sits at the inside of the dropout and won't move forward at all.
-
• #74013
The frame is not the problem
it's the wheel umbrella -
• #74014
What about deflating your tyres?
No :(, If I take a link out it literally sits against the back of the drop out. They are quite short, when I have some more cash I'm going to play around with the gearing. When I had an 18T on the rear it was perfect but the amount skid patches wasn't, I reckon a 47T chainring or 49T would do it.
-
• #74015
problem?
almost centred:
definitely not centred:
what could it be?
I have this with my front wheel/forks.
-
• #74016
Wheel true, but frame twisted? Plumb it and see.
-
• #74017
I think it's the dishing that's gone wrong.
I once spent the best part of day pissing about trying to mount some cantis before I took it to the shop and got told it was the wheel's fault. Looked the same as that. -
• #74018
problem?
almost centred:
definitely not centred:
what could it be?
4 possibilities as far as I can work out:
- Wheel bearings loose: causes wheel to flop over sideways but leaves it central between the chainstays.
- Wheel incorrectly dished, centred between the chainstays by moving right-hand end of axle forward, but still not centred between the seatstays.
- Rear triangle bent such that right-hand track-end/dropout is further out than left-hand one.
- Rear triangle bent so that right-hand track-end/dropout is lower than left-hand one. Wheel is centred between chainstays but lies over sideways closer to right-hand seatstay (similar to #1).
Edit: 5. Combinations of very minor instances of several of the above.
- Wheel bearings loose: causes wheel to flop over sideways but leaves it central between the chainstays.
-
• #74020
4 possibilities as far as I can work out:
[]Wheel bearings loose: causes wheel to flop over sideways but leaves it central between the chainstays.
[]Wheel incorrectly dished, centred between the chainstays by moving right-hand end of axle forward, but still not centred between the seatstays.
[]Rear triangle bent such that right-hand track-end/dropout is further out than left-hand one.
[]Rear triangle bent so that right-hand track-end/dropout is lower than left-hand one. Wheel is centred between chainstays but lies over sideways closer to right-hand seatstay (similar to #1).Edit: 5. Combinations of very minor instances of several of the above.
Wheel flopping in bearings should be bloody obvious...
Wheel dishing can be easily checked by flipping wheel in dropouts, which he says he's already done.
Hence we're down to bent frame, which IIRC the frame having been crashed into a teutonic geriatric is reasonably likely as they're made of stern stuff.
I assume you're familiar with the string-theory...
1 piece of string from LH dropout to RH dropout via headtube, vernier or rule to measure distance from string to outer face of seat-tube -
• #74021
http://www.acycles.co.uk/look-s-track-pedals-2013-274.html
Considering these, any of you tried them?
-
• #74022
theres a CP thread with someone using them. doubt many on here have them as they've just come out i think.
-
• #74023
Hence we're down to bent frame, which IIRC the frame having been crashed into a teutonic geriatric is reasonably likely as they're made of stern stuff.
I assume you're familiar with the string-theory...
1 piece of string from LH dropout to RH dropout via headtube, vernier or rule to measure distance from string to outer face of seat-tubeI'm not sure this method would show up the issue that might be causing this. To clarify my #3 I was suggesting that the seatstays may be bent relative to the chainstays (essentially the seatstay bridge area being shunted over to the left). Very, very unlikely but it might combine with other minor misalignments to cause what's visible in the pictures.
-
• #74024
http://www.acycles.co.uk/look-s-track-pedals-2013-274.html
Considering these, any of you tried them?
They look cool, cannot find any UK stockists though?
-
• #74025
he already told that with the wheel flipped it is centered both places. so the problem must be with the wheel.
probably dished a bit to one side, but it could also be a bent axle. I think shot bearings would be pretty obvious, but it should be investigated as well.
drive side stay been squashed?
Normally happens when you lock up on railings near bars on the weekend and some twat twunts it for japes...