Current Projects chat and miscellany

The trick of getting your bike in untrodden snow is more difficult

just throw it

I'll cut the 1cm above the stem of soon.

Leave at least one spacer above the stem, 3-5mm will do.

even on a non carbon steerer fork?

The trick to taking bike photos is do it from further away and zoom in, if you've got room... Makes everything line up and look, well, right...

Aaaaaaah, this sounds interesting.
Hate it when the lens makes things look wonky.

foreshortening

ftfy

I was thinking of using these for Penguin #2, with 28c tyres, terrible idea?

would a set of those hed ardennes that were on offer not be ideal for your everyday bike?

oops just realised you'll be running discs..

I was thinking of using these for Penguin #2, with 28c tyres, terrible idea?

480g for that carbon rims, or 380g for the ZTR Crest?

Adding an extra 200g to the rims just for the deep section advantage of shedding mud and the lower spokes count doesn't seemed much of an advantage (ZTR only come in 28h and 32h).

Plus, what if you like to go down the tubeless route? it would be a great way to drop some weight and pressure on the Penguin with the additional advantage that if anything go ho hay, just plop in an inner tube.

But you'll easily prevent picking up over 200g of mud, no?

Probably, but I hardly use it for CX.

480g for that carbon rims, or 380g for the ZTR Crest?

Adding an extra 200g to the rims just for the deep section advantage of shedding mud and the lower spokes count doesn't seemed much of an advantage (ZTR only come in 28h and 32h).

Plus, what if you like to go down the tubeless route? it would be a great way to drop some weight and pressure on the Penguin with the additional advantage that if anything go ho hay, just plop in an inner tube.

I'm currently running ZTR Iron Cross CX disc only rims in 32/32 spokes laced to lite novatec hubs and loving them.
Seem to be holding up so far with my 18stone, including bunny hoping curbs and all sorts of abuse.
They is only 385g each, with DT Super Comp (2.0-1.7-1.8) spokes and 1.8mm nipples reduces total weight even further.
20mm id, and 23mm od.
And more of a V section for mud loss too!

Currently using them with 28mm Conti Grand Prix 4 Seasons and they feel great so far, very impressed.

Running those on mine, front at 50psi, rear at 75psi, felt pretty good.

if you like to go down the tubeless route? it would be a great way to drop some weight and pressure

If you're using heavy clinchers tyres then your weight argument is valid but at the moment a race clincher and tube is still lighter .. Ultremo ZLX weighs 160g + latex tube 80g. The tubeless version weighs 290g + Stans 5g?

As for lower pressure meaning lower rolling resistance, you can run standard clinchers (which are more supple than any tubless tyre I've handled) at lower pressures too and the risk of pinch flats as much it may be valid, in practice on the road, the value isn't nearly what it is in the dirt unless you're slaming potholes and kerbs on a regular basis.

Also changing a flat if it doesn't seal is worse with tubless because of the bead ..

^^ Yeah, I had bought 25mm/28mm, which had been initially for my MASH, but after smashing my elbow, I got myself a Boardman CX instead, and so with no clearance restrictions I got another 28mm for the front.

Now I'm running 60/80 and it's a noticeably better ride.

If anyone wants a 25mm Conti grand prix 4 season PM me.

at lower pressures too and the risk of pinch flats as much it may be valid.

Why would pinch flats happened? I can't see any reason.

.. badly worded on my part! I meant on a clincher and tubed wheel at low pressure

Second try, a bit better:

Now you just need to work out how to stop the automatic exposure from metering off the snow and making the picture too dark. See if you can set the aperture and shutter speed manually, or change the metering to spot metering and sample it off a mid-tone like the shed in the background.

That sounds amazing

Eventually you'll have submitted a picture that's of an acceptable quality for people to comment on the bike instead...
Like the sweep of the spokes on that front wheel - what is it?

spengle

Srsly though, probably easiest to just switch the camera to manual mode (assuming it has one) and open the aperture up (switching to a smaller number, confusing, I know) or a longer shutter speed.

The EXIF data on that photo says your aperture was f/4.9 and shutter was 1/200 sec. Try 1/100 second, and/or an aperture setting nearer f/2.8, if possible (might not be when zoomed like that).

If it doesn't have a manual mode, see if you can find the light metering setting. It's currently on "Multi-segment" so I reckon it would have a single point setting. Even if it's just from the very centre of the frame it should do better than that, although trying to shoot a black bike on snow will mess with even the best auto metering systems.