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• #70652
That is what I suspected. And why the Boardman still has the original shifters and rear mech.
And, based on your post, why it is going to keep them for now.
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• #70653
Now where can I get some HED Stingers for my road bike?
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• #70654
wait, I'm moving from 8-speed 12-21 to 8 speed 13-26...I won't need a new derailleur right? maybe an extra link or two in the chain?
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• #70655
You'll be fine with whatever you have, just fit a new chain of the right length. Pretty much every rear dérailleur ever made can cope with at least a 28t big sprocket (nominal max on some Shimano is 27, but they really go to about 30 on most frames) and at least 28t total capacity, so as long as your chain ring difference is no more than 15t (e.g. 53/38) it's hard to see what there has ever been which won't cope.
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• #70656
cheers, that's a relief.
I've only got about 500 dry miles on the Wipperman 808 CONNEX that you reccomended. can I not just add in some of the spare links I've kept instead of bying a new chain?
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• #70657
Yes, you'll need another quick link to join them in. You end up with two quick links close together, with 1 or 3 normal links between them.
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• #70658
So I can't just break the chain opposite the quick link and add in the spare links I have?
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• #70659
No, you won't be able to rivet them in place safely. Modern dérailleur chain rivets are a one shot deal, once you've pushed them out to break the chain they are scrap metal.
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• #70660
Will you defiantly need the extra links? You're unlikely to be using the front big ring and the rear 28t at the same time.
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• #70661
^^ah good point.....
^this is true, but I do need the odd lesson on how to use gears properly, so not saying it won't happen... -
• #70662
Will you defiantly need the extra links? You're unlikely to be using the front big ring and the rear 28t at the same time.
But if he tries to do so even inadvertently, he'll rip the dérailleur off if the chain is too short. So in spite of your defiance, he definitely need the right chain length.
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• #70663
Ha!
Classic dyslexic meets Iphone typo.
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• #70664
^this is true, but I do need the odd lesson on how to use gears properly, so not saying it won't happen...
I am also having a bit of a shock going from fixed to geared... it doesn't feel connected enough!
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• #70665
This.....
....some of this....
....and this.
Some bits are still missing....
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• #70666
Whats the frame, and what bars you be using with it?
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• #70667
It's just an unknown welded steel frame with ritchey dropouts. Seems to have decent welds and was quite a bargain. I really don't know about the bars though, thought about some classic shaped ones because of the usage suntour command shifters.....i don't think they would be good to use on modern bars.
Stem is this here in 100mm....
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• #70668
I've recently acquired a Boardman Team aluminium frame and carbon forks in the hopes of converting it to a fixed gear. The bike has vertical drops bit I figured that a half-link chain would resolve this. However, on further research into the bike, it appears to be the frame set from a hybrid bike. Would the geometry on the frame be suitable for a fixed gear bike? I live in Bristol and would be using it for a 7 mile commute to work, as well as general sprinting around with friends. Here is the frame in its built up form
Cheers -
• #70669
Geometry is fine.
The only thing you need to worry about is the vertical drop out, a simple case of half link would only help slightly but still difficult to get a decent chain tension.
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• #70670
An old conversion resprayed for christmas for me by my brother
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• #70671
Cheers for the quick reply. Yeah, poor chain tension is biggest fear. Also, I can't help but notice that the top tube of Boardman hybrids (mine in particular) are much longer than the usual road frames I'm used to. I switch between using bullhorns and drops on my current bike, which I plan on using for this build. I'm just concerned about it being uncomfortable due to the seat post angle as well as the TT length
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• #70672
I'd sell the Boardman and find something with horizontal dropouts if i were you :-)
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• #70673
I can't help but notice that the top tube of Boardman hybrids (mine in particular) are much longer than the usual road frames I'm used to.
For the obvious reason that it's designed to run with a flat handlebar rather than the drop bar, meaning you'd need to run a stem shorter than usual to achieved the same position.
Kerob is right, it's much easier to just sell the frame and get a suitable one like a Dolan Precursa that got all the bits and bobs included already.
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• #70674
Bit late but thanks for all the opinions on the 28 wheel thing, was helpful. But, wont bother with the details, but i had a reality check, that Barry Chick frame is just to tight.
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• #70675
.
I doubt it, SRAM shifting seems pretty uniform across groups, spending more just gets you lighter stuff. In the case of X9, not really any lighter either. If you have upgraditis, go to X9 for the tidier cable routing and save about 10g including shortening the cable. The X9 parallelogram might be a bit stiffer than the Apex, but not by enough to notice from the other end of 1.5m of cable.