Current Projects chat and miscellany

Yeah, that really should have occurred to me before about retightening after quick right!

Thats also the problem with my current lockring, its only about 2-2.5mm wide and really isn't covering all the threads! In fact, its so thin, its actually flared out from the center as I've tightened it!

Crappy phone pic to illustrate -

Ah, that looks messy. Is it a noname lockring? Get rid quick before you ruin your hub and get some DuraAce in there.

Yeah, that really should have occurred to me before about retightening after quick right!

Thats also the problem with my current lockring, its only about 2-2.5mm wide and really isn't covering all the threads! In fact, its so thin, its actually flared out from the center as I've tightened it!

Crappy phone pic to illustrate -

This happen to me with a miche hub and lockring but a surly cog, just put a bb/hub spacer and tight the shit out of it and job done.

are you using grease on the threads? I've heard both pros and cons for its use in this situation. I have always greased, but then there might be a chance of it helping the threads on the lockring to ride over those of the hub (chance of stripping) or straight coming loose

If you say something condescending and sign it off with a smilie face that doesn't make it less condescending, it make you an utter tosspiece.

There there

<{:)

That's not condescending, it's patronising you amateur.

It is a complete no name ring and sprocket that both came with the wheel, hub soon to be chucked as bearings ain't great and generally not in good condition, to be replaced with a 36h XT front hub spaced out to 120mm to be used with bolt on sprocket from Velosolo and using existing Campy Omega Stratos (edit:Strada!) Hardox v rim for bullet proof everyday use.

I will probably use a little grease on threads, I always think its good practice.

Omega Strada V? Good choice (I have those on my track bike). Sounds like a great wheel actually.

I grease cog threads and stick loctite blue on the lockring threads if it's handy (I'm not sure how much that helps). I guess if you didn't grease an alu cog it could fuse.

I don't really know much about the hub, its an Atom 36h hub, and apart from needing new bearings (dunno about cups), it might actually be ok. Have stripped it and regreased, but still feeling pretty grindy.

Yeah, managed to pick up the wheel few months back off ebay for about £35, it was only ever intended to be a stop gap till I could afford something good, but really like the rim, its pretty light, but also tough as, so decided to rebuild with a new hub and keep for everyday use.

If I could easily find another, I might consider building up a pair, but happy with Campy Vento on front at the mo..

Plus, no fear of lock rings coming loose with a bolt on!

Am also building a H&Son tb14 onto a Goldtec with DT Competition spokes for the rear for sunday best and back up and will get some loctite (was trying to remember what it was called!).

You're right they are beautiful and very stiff rims. I've actually got a spare Hardox Omega v if you want it. Missing it's sticker but otherwise perfect.

How much you wanting for it mate?

Also, how many holes is it?

It's a 32h. PM'ed you anyway with an offer you can't refuse.

:D

That's not condescending, it's patronising you amateur.

i just wanted to use the hat smiley

^^ And it is a very good offer I shall take you up on!

Anyone know what the loctite product number is for best use on sprockets? Am looking at 243 or 270, but wondering if 270 is overdoing it.

You dont need any.

This happen to me with a miche hub and lockring but a surly cog, just put a bb/hub spacer and tight the shit out of it and job done.

Miche hubs need a campagnolo lockring dont they?

its an Atom 36h hub.

It's possible that it needs a French lockring. It's not at all easy to tell by measuring, as the sizes are close, ISO/JIS is 32.76mm nominal thread OD, French is 33.00mm. Pitch is also close, so it's hard to be sure with only a few turns to measure, 1.00mm for French and 1.06mm for ISO/JIS. Although they seem close enough to be interchangeable, using the wrong one could be contributing to your loosening issue.

its sad that at that age you still feel you need to prove your point on the internet so badly

I am, as you say, very old; old enough to know that what I publish online will outlive me. As I said in another thread, we are talking to strangers from the future. It seems only polite to give them the best of our knowledge.

As I said in another thread, we are talking to strangers from the future.

I've got a 50cm frame with a tall-ish (long drop) carbon fork and it's showing strong "wheel flop". Is it worth trying to reduce the trail by swapping in a shorter fork (short drop calipers) to increase the effective HT angle or would the effect be negligible? I'd go to a 50mm offset as well but I can't find any below 3T/ENVE price range.

Don't know where to put this, but the deal of the day on iBood is the Garmin Edge 705 deluxe bundle for £189.95

^ Good shout, cheers.

I just, quoted you to: [B]*Classifieds > ebay finds*[/B] ... Which is the place for all deals etc.

If you say something condescending and sign it off with a smilie face that makes it less condescending, you utter tosspiece. ;)

Fify.

...and I think it's you're

Cheers. I think! ;)

Ah, that looks messy. Is it a noname lockring? Get rid quick before you ruin your hub and get some DuraAce in there.

+1 (unless it's french as tester suggested it might be)

I have bolt on cogs on both my fixed rear wheels now and totally rate them.

My old DuraAce cog/lock ring are still solid on my mates bike tho, two years after I put them on there and they've been ridden brakeless. Worth it if you're keeping that wheel as as spare when your new one arrives.