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• #56727
stop using Proofide.
Agreed, use Proofhide very sparingly indeed. Keep it as dry as possible, let it dry naturally if it gets soaked, if its out of shape you can re-form it when its saturated and let it dry -Ive found Brooks saddles pretty forgiving of abuse, but I've heard Proofide is a good way to wreck them- ironically.
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• #56728
Just let the saddle break in normally, Proofide is not necessary to maintain your Brooks.
if you want it to break in ASAP, just loosen the bolt on the nose, ride for a couple weeks, then tighten it up again, job done.
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• #56729
The saddle was comfortable straight out the box so in actual fact "breaking in" wasn't strictly necessary. As per the recommendations from Brooks I initially applied a very sparing application of Proofide before the first ride and the rode it several times. I wasn't expecting to use the Proofide again tbh but very quickly i.e. the first or second ride it seemed to be soaking up sweat (nice) at contact points on the saddle. I continued to ride it but it got worse, so I thought it must need additional applications of Proofide. I won't use it anymore.
I think the damage is done though, but it's strange how it did it straight away. Maybe I'll take it up with Brooks?
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• #56730
I've always been tempted by a brooks but the fact they take a while to break in puts me off no end. I don't want to ride around un comfortably for 700 miles, even if that isn't that many summer rides.
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• #56731
The saddle was comfortable straight out the box so in actual fact "breaking in" wasn't strictly necessary. As per the recommendations from Brooks I initially applied a very sparing application of Proofide before the first ride and the rode it several times. I wasn't expecting to use the Proofide again tbh but very quickly i.e. the first or second ride it seemed to be soaking up sweat (nice) at contact points on the saddle. I continued to ride it but it got worse, so I thought it must need additional applications of Proofide. I won't use it anymore.
I think the damage is done though, but it's strange how it did it straight away. Maybe I'll take it up with Brooks?
Too late now but the best dressing for leather is Connolly Hide Care (available Amazon amongst others). Connolly provide leather for luxury cars and the dressing is also used widely by the horse racing fraternity on harness.
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• #56732
I've always been tempted by a brooks but the fact they take a while to break in puts me off no end. I don't want to ride around un comfortably for 700 miles, even if that isn't that many summer rides.
Like I say, absolutely no issues with break in for me. Very comfortable immediately, infact love the way it rides. But I am irritated by this apparently premature wear, especially considering I've done as instructed by Brooks' own care guide. Here's another pic which shows the extent of the damage better. Anyone had a similar problem?:
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• #56733
Re; Cougar their reputation (when owned and built by Dolan) was enhanced by this man. Seen here riding on his own in a straight line.
His frame for the Athlete's hour was built by Dolan/Cougar and then either re-badged as a Look or re-made by them depending on who you believe.
Looks like Gideon 'oik' Osborne, which is useless in the context of this thread.
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• #56734
It just means that they need pumping up far more frequently.
The advantage is low weight, the disadvantage is that they lose air faster.
also massive puncture resistance
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• #56735
Like I say, absolutely no issues with break in for me. Very comfortable immediately, infact love the way it rides. But I am irritated by this apparently premature wear, especially considering I've done as instructed by Brooks' own care guide. Here's another pic which shows the extent of the damage better. Anyone had a similar problem?
Get in touch with Brooks. They take quality pretty seriously so it's worth contacting them in a positive manner and asking for advice.
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• #56736
Anyone had a similar problem?:
Yup, but I scrubbed mine after my landlord's handyman got masonry paint on it, other than that I assumed it was keys/pens poking through trousers causing it. Not got worse since I stopped having my keys in my back pocket...
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• #56737
To whoever bought these:
Don't ride your bike in the wet or you'll have to keep repacking the bearings.
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• #56738
Get in touch with Brooks. They take quality pretty seriously so it's worth contacting them in a positive manner and asking for advice.
Good plan. Thanks. That's exactly what I've done now.
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• #56739
To whoever bought these:
Don't ride your bike in the wet or you'll have to keep repacking the bearings.Is that a well known problem with those hubs? And why is it a problem?
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• #56740
I'm not sure it's a problem. If you think about it, these are pro track hubs designed to be used on a track and I expect regularly serviced, not exposed to the rigours of winter etc.
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• #56741
I expect regularly serviced
If you don't get them wet, they will last many years without the innards ever seeing the light of day.
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• #56742
Fair enough :) I had visions of track team mechanics stripping and re-greasing things on a regular basis.
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• #56743
I have no experience of this of course! ;)
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• #56744
Shops closed down and 165s are for girls so crimped it is
Not good enough man! They shouldn't have sold you a dud frame.
But, you're stuck so get Ted to crimp it more and ride it.
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• #56745
Was wondering what happened to the 14 shop, thought they'd moved, but they shut down have they? They must have a workshop somewhere if they're producing those 14Rs....
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• #56746
Lee Cooper makes their frames, no? They've never had their own production facilities.
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• #56747
all this fuss over 5mm?
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• #56748
Ted used to build for them no?
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• #56749
You could just 'crimp' it more yourself (is that really the correct term)?
I put a dent into the chainstay of my Penine frame with a ball-pein hammer -cause the spider was hitting. the spider misses now by 4-5mm -the crank ends are a way off and this is a Superbe-pro Chainset, so not one with a wide tread. In my experience its usually the spider that hits the stay, so something aint right here.
I missed how old the frame is, have you crashed it? if its newish and as straight as when you got it I agree -it's time to be Mr Angry.There was discussion about measuring whether the frame was tracked properly (the string method works). Try that first -if you haven't- and check rear triangle to main allignment.
I am not so sure about doing it myself, I want it to be as clean looking as possible Ted has a tool to do it more evenly. I think the problem is that the stays have been welded at the far edges of the BB shell maybe to make it easier to file down the fillet brazes? It is deff an over site by 14 but I bought it 2 years ago and had no issue and for the sake of £25 including bottom bracket fitting and to get it done that day I decided it was better to not wait for ages arguing with 14 It would have cost me more on Oyster top-up.
Ted measured the frame its straight.
Lee Cooper makes their frames, no? They've never had their own production facilities.
Yes Lee Cooper made/makes their frames mine is stamped LC under the bb before the serial number
all this fuss over 5mm?
Well I didn't know about the issue before I bought the cranks I could have exchanged them but I didn't want to. Also the frame is even more personal to me now which I like, I don't intend on selling it any time soon.
Ted used to build for them no?
Ted only built some of the ESB trick bikes, who knows who is building the 14R. 14 Is still open sort of. They are nearby but operate a phone/internet business only.
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• #56750
all this fuss over 5mm?
Fuck. Do NOT get Ed started on his sitbones again.
Really? I only use it very sparingly and if I do it every couple of weeks I'd be surprised. Why would it damage the saddle like this? The rest of the leather is shiny but the affected sections are matt and rough and clearly not waterproof. Thanks in advance.