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• #56377
What do you all think?The frame could be porn unfortunately you have put some ugly parts on: the wheels, the seat post and saddle especially
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• #56378
Picked up this GT Pulse from Multi Grooves a few weeks ago. Looks like it should be ready fairly soon and will replace my current track frame on my everyday/beater/lock-up bike.
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• #56379
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• #56380
What do you all think?
The stem is too short, the seat is setback too far and the lever angle is odd.
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• #56381
Thank you miro, now over to mdcc_tester for the local news...
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• #56382
Sorry for shit phone picture, just finished this (so not a current project).
Dura ace high flange hubs onto op's, feels really good. Also Campagnolo Record front brake, which is proving to be more then adequate at stopping me both at home and outside the off licence.
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• #56383
shellac* and twine
*sp?
The colour reminds me of the H Block 'dirty protest' walls.
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• #56384
Sorry for shit phone picture, just finished this (so not a current project).
Dura ace high flange hubs onto op's, feels really good. Also Campagnolo Record front brake, which is proving to be more then adequate at stopping me both at home and outside the off licence.
Doktor P's old bike?
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• #56385
wow, that looks truly amazing, so well done DC
**and **you got snow in NL, what a great coincidence =)) -
• #56386
CBA'd with turbo trainer anymore, the fiddling to adapt bike to it every time, the faff of alignment, the relentless bordem of it and the tyre wear O_o
So, for some reason in my mind, I think that a roller would be better? Its probably not, but its different, and different is erm, different, right!?
At work (small engineering works where we make many amazing and secret things), you can ride around the factory and pretend the steel stock room is a crowd at the edge of a velodrome.....
.....or, do something productive with that rejected piece of conveyor track.
Now, its about 2' wide (yes feet, because we are an engineering works, not some pouncy modern french place), and there are a whole bunch of rollers on ball bearings (most unfortunately seized).
The plan is to dissemble the whole thing, pick out 3 good rollers and build a roller machine.
Rear rollers will be fixed, front roller will be adjustable via a simple slot. Front roller will be driven by whatever I can find, probably a length of climbing accessory cord (nylon stuff as it can be sewn end to end pretty effectively for this purpose) which has a bit of stretch in it to allow adjustment between the different lengths required.So far only snag is that I've only found ONE bearing (half a rollers worth) thats any good. I've got about a dozen soaking in plus gas overnight to see if I can revive them. If not doesn't matter too much, as each roller end cap (blue bits) has a bearing cast inside the plastic, but each bearing runs with a plastic bush inserted in it (like a shimano HTII BB shell bearing) which I could just tear out, and run the metal dowels (seen in photo) right onto inside of the seized bearing surface, yeah won't last forever, but its FREE!!!
Ideally I fancy building a roller ON A ROLLER, so you can get out of saddle and get aggressive without flying off the rollers into a pile of rusty/ sharp tools.
DIY Free-motion Rollers #2 - YouTube
Bit like what that fella has doneAnyway, will keep updated, shouldn't exactly take me long, theres not a whole lot to it!
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• #56387
Looks like a sweet project. I think worthy of its own thread.
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• #56388
Amazing rollers in the vid. A proper rolling road.
Will there be any issue with the rollers on your project being a smaller radius than standard? I don't know why, just seems intuitively troublesome for some reason. Reduced contact area against the tyre??
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• #56389
I like your idea. I don't see the need for an adjustable front roller though. Ok, if you want to fiddle getting it perfect for each different bike. The rollers only look a little smaller than those on a Tacx set of rollers so a Tacx belt should fit, quite cheap too.
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• #56390
Rollers are about 60 - 70mm OD so not too bad. I think my turbo (tacx magnet job) spindle is a pittiful 35mm (hence endless slipping and tyre destruction, even Ttraining tyres only last a few weeks of basic use.
Was going to make a new thread, but was fearful of LFGSS thread merge posse ;)
Adjustable front as I have road bike, hack bike (geared right now, but about to become fixed for spring training thanks to dumpster find 1950s flipflop hub/wheel (airlite)) and others all have drastically different wheelbases (my road bike is a 70s bob jackson with pretty short wheelbase/ fair toe overlap etc, vs hack bike which is like a beach cruiser by comparison).
I've seen people use 10mm webbing (and sewn together) to good effect, but the friction from them is insane, and keeping them in a groove is tricky. 4-6mm nylon cord will be the job I think.
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• #56391
Ooh, you could make some chain tensioner style roller adjuster. Captive bolt so that you just need to turn it X no. of times on each side to change it to each bike.
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• #56392
You could just go for a ride...
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• #56393
That means cold/wet and cars/peds.
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• #56394
You could just go for a ride...
that means being mistaken for a..... [gasps]...... roadie
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• #56395
Looks like a sweet project. I think worthy of its own thread.
This.
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• #56396
Will there be any issue with the rollers on your project being a smaller radius than standard?
High rolling resistance, which some of us don't like, but some people use Kreitler 2.25s (about 57mm) so opinion varies.
fixing MTB back up again (need new frame+ forks, again)
What are you looking for? I haz Specialized Enduro + Fox Talas R
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• #56397
Front roller will be driven by whatever I can find, probably a length of climbing accessory cord (nylon stuff as it can be sewn end to end pretty effectively for this purpose) which has a bit of stretch in it to allow adjustment between the different lengths required.
Kreitler belts are about $20, but you could use a band saw blade (for those who love action).
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• #56398
Tacx belt:
http://www.parker-international.co.uk/13261/Tacx-T1043-Roller-Drive-Belt.html
Might need an idler to take up the slack on small rollers as it's designed for 4"+ rollersZ76 belt is around the length you'd need, again some kind of tensioner/idler would be needed to accommodate the variable roller separation:
http://simplybearings.co.uk/shop/p517064/Z76+Major+Brand+Z-Section+V-Belt/product_info.html -
• #56399
That's the beauty of the Kreitler belts, they stretch to accommodate quite a range of adjustment.
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• #56400
Tacx belt:
http://www.parker-international.co.uk/13261/Tacx-T1043-Roller-Drive-Belt.html
Might need an idler to take up the slack on small rollers as it's designed for 4"+ rollersZ76 belt is around the length you'd need, again some kind of tensioner/idler would be needed to accommodate the variable roller separation:
http://simplybearings.co.uk/shop/p517064/Z76+Major+Brand+Z-Section+V-Belt/product_info.htmlgreat links thanks! that poly v belt looks like a bit of a monster. prob will be the plastic of the rollers is only 2-3mm so even cutting a 1mm channel is going to srriously reduce their syrength.
at work we have a few addiditive layer plastic printers so might just whack a belt drive sptokcet of 4" out so that the tacx belt will fit. :)
I know! Found frame in a ditch, pink with broken dropout. Lacing up wiemann concave rims at the weekend.