Current Projects chat and miscellany

Fact

thought this was my old bike for a second! lovely

If the head tube needs facing and reaming, chances are the BB shell also needs facing and chasing. All these operations are part of frame preparation, and are usually done together immediately before building.

The benefit is that your headset bearings will be axially aligned with each other and with the steerer. Getting this right contributes about 90% to headset durability, with the remaining 10% being down to headset quality.

Hmmm, good to know. Always looking to expand on cycle mechanical knowledge.

Can anyone confirm that thing hanging off the top tube is a number plate holder, if so is there supposed to be another bolt in there?
Does this indicate a pedigree or is that wishful thinking?

Yes, absolutely a number plate holder.
I always thought that Koga was the 1st one to use it.
The original screw belonging to this holder is a bit impractical. Something round with a bit of rubber and no way to get a tool on it.

The best way to use it is with a wing bolt, something that used to come with every campag or shimano down tube shifter (friction).
Alternatively an M5 wing bolt from a DIY store.

Best point: turn it 90 degrees and it holds your frame pump (and leaves space for 2 bottles).

Frame looks a bit like a Maxi Sport from Cyrille Guimard. Possible?

The benefit is that your headset bearings will be axially aligned with each other and with the steerer. Getting this right contributes about 90% to headset durability, with the remaining 10% being down to headset quality.

...getting it wrong results in 100% fnarced frame.

Looking back, 5 minutes and a sharp file could have sorted me with the bit of paint on the bb shell faces and prevented having to go through a demoralising wait of three weeks. Depending on the headset, bb and overpainting on the frame, if it is a new one that is, one can get away without chase and face farce in most cases... Of course not in certified bike mech terms though, they don't do halve assed jobs if they are worth their wages. Their tools however, who knows...

Factory frames are cut, faced and all to specs, just paint might have build up on the contact surfaces and might need attention. I learned the hard way and was happy, it was someone else's obligation to have me sorted out and that it wasnt my $$$ tool that had to be crushed.

Freak accident ^

[URL="http://www.flickr.com/photos/49138502@N04/sets/72157628825657751/with/6679675251/"][/URL]

What a beauty!
needs one of these:

[QUOTE=mdcc_tester;2621965]The benefit is that your headset bearings will be axially aligned with each other and with the steerer. Getting this right contributes about 90% to headset durability, with the remaining 10% being down to headset quality.

...getting it wrong results in 100% fnarced frame.

Looking back, 5 minutes and a sharp file could have sorted me with the bit of paint on the bb shell faces and prevented having to go through a demoralising wait of three weeks. Depending on the headset, bb and overpainting on the frame, if it is a new one that is, one can get away without chase and face farce in most cases... Of course not in certified bike mech terms though, they don't do halve assed jobs if they are worth their wages. Their tools however, who knows...

Factory frames are cut, faced and all to specs, just paint might have build up on the contact surfaces and might need attention. I learned the hard way and was happy, it was someone else's obligation to have me sorted out and that it wasnt my $$$ tool that had to be crushed.[/QUOTE]

Freak accident ^

So, what people are saying is that with a new frame (which mine is) it should already be cut and faced in the factory, and that if there is just a little paint build up on it, filing it (extreamely) carefully might suffice.

However there are benefits to getting them cut and faced, and if you are going to do it, get a bike shop with the right tools to do it, so that if they cock it all up (which is unlikely), you've got some comeback.

The bike mechanic in Strattons said that on a new frame, it would already be done, and it wasn't going to be worth doing. Also they no longer have the tools to do it, but if I wanted the headset and/or bottom bracket fitting, then they could do that for me with no problems, although it most likely was worth buying a cheap headset press and doing it myself, and that he just used a long coachbolt with washers when he was doing it at home.

I'm not quite sure where this leaves me really. I need to have a think about it all.

Good advice from your LBS. If it is a new frame, you don't need to bother. Just chuck it all together, use a bit of wood and a hammer to install the headset like everybody else!

So I've got what looks like a Stronglight Headstrong 1" threaded headset on this bike

Unlike a normal threaded headset however, there does not seem to be a way to 'lock' it. There's only one bit that screws on to the forks.

I can't seem to find any assembly info/instructions about this headset, could anyone shed any light?

Previous owner says they just tightened it by hand and left it but I can't see that being safe?

is there an allen bolt in it, maybe under the cover?
i had a headset that looked very similar to that although it was badged as mavic (made by stronglight), and that's how it locked on.

I just google it and it looks like other versions have a locking nut. as you suggest ^

is there an allen bolt in it, maybe under the cover?
i had a headset that looked very similar to that although it was badged as mavic (made by stronglight), and that's how it locked on.

I'll see if there's a hidden one.

I just google it and it looks like other versions have a locking nut. as you suggest ^

Are you sure they're not the threadless versions as that's what I found when I googled it.

I'll see if there's a hidden one.

Are you sure they're not the threadless versions as that's what I found when I googled it.

If Dradloos means threadless, then yes.

My new frame, minus chain, bars, straps, fatter tyres.
Painted my forks today, primed in the picture. Now they're stealthy black.

Currently building up an aluminium vitus 979 with various bits

I built up a Reynolds 531 two years ago with bits salvaged from my old BSA with basic and cheap(ish) bits like driveline crankset, charge saddle, and aero XR1 wheelset. I run a flip flop hub on the back but have yet to ride it on the freewheel. Ratio is 48/19 which seems to work well in London, but gonna take a few teeth off the rear cog. It is a great everyday bike, super quick and a smooth ride.

Currently working on a Steel Vitus frame. I'm looking for a campag crankset (165) or equivalent, a 26.4 seat post and a French thread bottom bracket (closed) and headset (also french thread). Also on the lookout for a set of Mavic wheels with a fixed or flip flop rear hub. Im considering some GIPIEMME XR536 36H wheels I found, but looking for alternatives. Any opinion on these?

If you know anyone who has got any of these parts then please get in touch and/or share your views on the above. I've ben riding high mileage fixed for a fair few years but still learning new stuff everyday.

The bike mechanic in Strattons said that on a new frame, it would already be done, and it wasn't going to be worth doing.

Find a new mechanic.

Frame builders should ream and face the head tube and face the BB before painting, which means your pre-build prep can be done with a razor blade (don't file), but not all of them do, and any overspray inside the head tube or BB shell can only be effectively removed with the proper tools anyway. You're not paying £20 for a 10 minute job because bike shop mechanics are worth £120/hr, you're paying to rent £1000 worth of tools.

After smashing my last bike/face, I have just taken delivery of a new frame (cheers PeterV!):

This will be my first 'project', built up with Shimano 600,I just need to sort a BB and a seatpost that fits.

Was thinking of getting it resprayed?
Would that be taking the piss? Perhaps I should just ride it and let the colour grow on me...

Leave the paint, that style colour fade is going to be BIG this summer, I can feel it.

+1 for keep the paint, especially as it looks tidy

and if you have to get it painted, and planning a powder coat, double check that frame would be ok being heated up....

don't think powdercoating those bonded frames is a good idea.

Hi guys ;)

I think I will leave it as it is.
Excited!

Not perfect but I like it. Gitane TdF conversion.

If Dradloos means threadless, then yes.

It means wireless but i assume that in this case it would mean threadless.

What do I need more:

Sugino 75's to replace Stronglight track 2000
HED3
Wound Up forks.

I'm a serious track sprint racer, looking to really improve my times in the coming season.

read: Which will make my bike look more rad.

Also best place in London for a fade painjob/anyone have experience of the more premium paints at armourtex?