Current Projects chat and miscellany

is it me or has that seatpost got a slight curvature?

My dodgy photography I would think

Can a structural engineer help here?

You rang?

I believe, Sir Loic, that the good gentlemen are in fact correct.

Skid stopping is loading the drive train much more than at any other time.
With what is effectively 0 BCD this crankset has neatly put the weak point of the whole system (the connection between the cranks and chain ring) in the position where it is subject to the highest forces (due to increased length of lever arm from outside of chain ring to load transfer point @ centre of chain ring).

Am not too familiar with how the two parts are connected but if it is just ridges/grooves then repeated skidding is likely to wear them out and you could find yourself in a rather a spot of bother.

Sorry if I missed something :p

Have finally got my Raleigh Twenty home. I've got a feeling it's going to end up being a major project that drags me into a quagmire for years and years. It looks wicked fun, though. It's also my first project so I get all the fun of vintage builds without knowing a single thing about bikes beforehand!

The forks are mangled after (what looks like) being run over by a car, so those will be the first thing to replace. It looks like it's going to be an interesting challenge as whatever forks go on the thing, they're going to need a longer steerer tube. However long you're thinking, then much longer. Like a giraffe steerer tube. After a bit of googling it seems that the easiest thing to find that would fit and that is also light is a BMX fork but most of the extenders I can find for threadless setups are those hideous clamp-on things that sit on the outside of the tube: http://www.cyclesuk.com/product/Stem_Raiser_2009_GNJ002B?utm_source=merchant&utm_medium=google&utm_campaign=products Honestly? it's ghastly. There's got to be a better option? People seem to be advising going threaded and using a super-long quill, but where the hell do you get super-long quills? Where for that matter would you get a threaded 20" fork in this day and age?

What would you guys do?

Good cranks experts are here BTW!

I intend to bring my old MTB back from france.

Otherwise, any recommendation for "cheapo/reasonnable" quality MTB cranks would be appreciated.

Sugino/Stronglight XD-2 would be perfect for this bike, and only £35. Spa sell it without rings too for £20. Great quality for the money and certainly not heavy.

I suspect that the square taper was damaged from being slightly loose while you performed all these bunny hops. Unlikely to be a problem if properly tightened and regularly checked.

I would keep the road crankset for a modern road bike - it would look incongruous on this bike.

impulse??....where impulse = force × "time for application of force"

You rang?
Skid stopping is loading the drive train much more than at any other time.

found this
master Team Buckler
full suntour superbe pro
forks and stays blighted by rust spots (

^Epic! Tasty Suntour Pro too.. Wow..

gracias
the light is better in this pic

gracias
the light is better in this pic

Nice find!

Where did you find it?

as Piers Morgan says " I don't reveal my sources "

)

shit the bed that is nice saarf-you going to ride it yourself or sell it on?

just procured myself some mega cheap white industries hubs for my dream wheel build... going to be my one luxury in terms of post-accident insurance payment-I've already scraped cheap replacements for everything else. For the rims I'm thinking open pro cd or dt swiss 415's on nice wheelsmith spokes but open to suggestions if anyone has 'em.

i dunno if any of you looked at the classifieds but earlier I was looking for a 50cm (originally looking for a bloody 42 but realised quickly this was a little too small) frame to put together a decent bike for my mum for christmas. Check out the additions to the family's now all-steel stable today :)

Moser Giro, tiny frame with a mish mash of campagnolo bits. I think it looks pretty cute with the fat balloon seat but I reckon that'll get changed out pretty quick after a few rides.. thanks very much to sash for letting the frame go at a great price.

and my dad got this as a present to himself:

rather sheldon brownish with the fit but in an awesome classy condor sort of way.

plus matching straps! (and bag) by Veganski for commuting. They look great with the bike, was a lucky coincidence with the colour..

they're both very happy with em :)

/\
lovely
/\/\
may be a keeper , was bought privately

All steel stable? Condor looks aluminiumy? also, interesting choice of pedals for your dad...

He didn't want spd's and toe-clips annoy him, but he wants some sort of pedal retention. He might not like em but he's out riding the bike now for the first time so I'll see what he says... and I think platforms are the best alternative to clipless personally, nice fat surface area

http://www.condorcycles.com/Audax-Commute-Touring/9457-Condor-Fratello-2011/flypage.tpl.html
that's the frameset, dedacciai steel.

I thought I might share my current project. Just got myself a sand blasted Pro-Race track frame, which will be powder coated.

Yeah I been riding easton fat boys and restraps on my Argos when I can't be arsed with atacs... I think they're great, purists aren't keen but I tried double clips and straps and didn't like them, felt insecure... set up like this ^ is even more secure than clipless, once set up right.

like so...

1 Attachment

Have finally got my Raleigh Twenty home. I've got a feeling it's going to end up being a major project that drags me into a quagmire for years and years. It looks wicked fun, though. It's also my first project so I get all the fun of vintage builds without knowing a single thing about bikes beforehand!

The forks are mangled after (what looks like) being run over by a car, so those will be the first thing to replace. It looks like it's going to be an interesting challenge as whatever forks go on the thing, they're going to need a longer steerer tube. However long you're thinking, then much longer. Like a giraffe steerer tube. After a bit of googling it seems that the easiest thing to find that would fit and that is also light is a BMX fork but most of the extenders I can find for threadless setups are those hideous clamp-on things that sit on the outside of the tube: http://www.cyclesuk.com/product/Stem_Raiser_2009_GNJ002B?utm_source=merchant&utm_medium=google&utm_campaign=products Honestly? it's ghastly. There's got to be a better option? People seem to be advising going threaded and using a super-long quill, but where the hell do you get super-long quills? Where for that matter would you get a threaded 20" fork in this day and age?

What would you guys do?

lots of threaded bmx NOS forks on ebay usually. I used one for my Raleigh grifter build. You'd maybe have to use the original threaded stem from the twenty though.

He didn't want spd's and toe-clips annoy him, but he wants some sort of pedal retention. He might not like em but he's out riding the bike now for the first time so I'll see what he says... and I think platforms are the best alternative to clipless personally, nice fat surface area

They're starting to get popular in touring due to being able to have one shoes instead of two (one for spd, one for walking), large platform is comfortable with a nice load spread over.

personally I'd go for the skinnest pedals rather than the fat crud DMR that has been around for donkey's, like this;

I find beefy pedals with beefy shoes odd putting me in a slightly higher position than with clipless/road pedals.

Scoble's advice above is complete and utter fucking nonsense, if you want the best of both worlds you'd get something like this

As for low profile flat pedals, these are the best.

I think I have now pretty much reached the final incarnation of my Holdsworth Triath-Elan, after quite a lot of tinkering, which I can't pretend I didn't enjoy.

When I have swapped these bars for silver ones, taped them up properly, and got some road shoes and fitted the Shimano R540 pedals I picked up on Ebay, I might be finished. Although I sort of hope not.

Went for a really nice ride round West Cheshire and through Delamere Forest yesterday, the cassette isn't ideal for all the hills but all in all it was a great ride, so I'm happy as Larry.

Scoble's advice above is complete and utter fucking nonsense, if you want the best of both worlds you'd get something like this[/IMG]

How is that fucking nonsense when a low profile pedals is great for touring?

He wanted a flat pedal with a large surface area, and you advised a flat pedal with a large surface area, whereas senor bear advised half clipless pedals when it was stated he was not after clipless... cant you see where you went wrong ed?