Current Projects chat and miscellany

Yeah, since steel tends to fail when subjected to over its UTS (ultimate tensile strength) rather than through cyclic-loading fatigue, then reducing UTS failures is the most important aspect. Or in other words, axles tend not to fail through normal use, but through big shocks. Wider tyres = less bottoming out = axle doesn't break.

It wouldn't be too expensive to rebuild the hubs into wider rims. Pair of A319s £40, strip ano and polish £0, bunch of spokes and nipples £25 - that makes 65 for a decent wheelset which is also not bad to look at, and less than half the price of the fugly offerings from Spa Cycles (why does nobody (except VO) make nice hourglass shaped hubs any more?)

Tomorrow I will be stripping the ano from, and polishing up, the cranks for this bike, since I have nothing to do.

lae, I done exactly that, rebuild the wheel onto an A319.

Incidentally I realised my bike is almost quite similar to the Crane's Raleigh;

The difference is; bikepacking instead of rack/panniers.

Is it silver-soldered too?

Paselas in 32 would make a comfy tour on your current set-up, no switched rim required.
They're measure out to 30 or so on my Weinman concaves.

I had Grand Bois on mine, very thin but lightweight 32c tyres, damn comfortable and fast, no puncture yet (touch wood).

Yeah, it's not going to be easy- I suspect that is the point.

Turbo session just now:

Averages
Speed (mph):17.2
Power (watts):195
Heart Rate (bpm):147
Cadence (rpm):88

Must try harder!

Fuck it, I'm not a science!

Believe it or not there have been some folk in history who can't spin but still manage to beast it on those although having all the skills still fail.

I don't know about you folk but my years as making it as a professional have long since past but so long as i occasionally shame the odd riding buddy when they don't expect it; I really don't give a fuck!

.

I had Grand Bois on mine, very thin but lightweight 32c tyres, damn comfortable and fast, no puncture yet (touch wood).

Yeah I've been looking at them with hungry eyes for a while now... trying to keep the cost down, but I reckon good tyres are worth spending a little more money on.

My mother has a clothing company so I have access to industrial sewing machines and the like - making my own tarp-tent and stuff-sacks will save a bit of money and weight.

My mother has a clothing company so I have access to industrial sewing machines and the like - making my own tarp-tent and stuff-sacks will save a bit of money and weight.

Damn you, now I'm jealous! I really like making my own things and have been asking around my friends (and their mum's) for a sewing machine I could borrow/buy. I is an awkward shape (kinda rugby player + beer gut shape), so finding clothing that fits properly is a pain.

This is probs true but if you are poor / lacking space like me and have to use fixed for everything then put on 70+ yes its a little slower off the lights but lower than that if you leave anything but central is so frustrating.

Isn't this why the flip-flop hub was invented? I'm running a 49t chainring with a 20t cog (66") on one side and a 18t on the other (73.5") then a set of track wheels with a 15t cog (88.2").

For the winter I've leave it with 66", I find it perfectly useable outside of central London: an average of around 95 rpm gives a speed of 30 kph, which I very rarely average above on a normal ride.

Just spent an hour working on the boardman to get it shipshaped for next week.... still got another couple of hours I reckon shall do that tomorrow.... don't know where dammit finds his energy, I hate working on bikes!

Damn you, now I'm jealous! I really like making my own things and have been asking around my friends (and their mum's) for a sewing machine I could borrow/buy. I is an awkward shape (kinda rugby player + beer gut shape), so finding clothing that fits properly is a pain.

Yeah, I've made patterns for panniers and bar bags and the like, and she's made a couple pairs of bib shorts too. Pretty useful skill to have, really.

Believe it or not there have been some folk in history who can't spin

e.g. https://www.lfgss.com/member9364.html

Not saying spinning is the only way, just that spinning doesn't really start until you're into 3-figure rpm. My best races have been done at an average of 85-88rpm

Isn't this why the flip-flop hub was invented? I'm running a 49t chainring with a 20t cog (66") on one side and a 18t on the other (73.5") then a set of track wheels with a 15t cog (88.2").

For the winter I've leave it with 66", I find it perfectly useable outside of central London: an average of around 95 rpm gives a speed of 30 kph, which I very rarely average above on a normal ride.

ok, being the noob that I am, I dont understand this gear index malarky, how do you arrive at 66" or 73.5" etc from the ratios of cog and sprocket? i quickly searched sheldon brown site on gear index but that just told me how fast i'll go at a certain rpm

prepares for onslaught of abuse
Cheers

Ratio of chainring to sprocket, multipled by wheel diameter in inches

Comes from penny farthings where there was no transmission gearing (i.e. 1:1) and the gear of the bicycle was governed by the diameter of the wheel

ok, being the noob that I am, I dont understand this gear index malarky, how do you arrive at 66" or 73.5" etc from the ratios of cog and sprocket? i quickly searched sheldon brown site on gear index but that just told me how fast i'll go at a certain rpm

prepares for onslaught of abuse
Cheers

^ That chart looks like it's for > 23c tyres, longer than 165mm cranks (or both).

^These figures are for 27" wheels so will obviously be a bit different if you're using another diameter

Crank arm length doesn't affect GI....

Ok, I though it looked off.

^ That chart looks like it's for > 23c tyres, longer than 165mm cranks (or both).

Quoted for future embarrassment.

If you want to bring crank length into it, and generally confuse noobs, use gain ratio

There is a thread on this already but Macca85 you may want this link.

Quoted for future embarrassment.

Yes alright. I've been hanging around with unicyclists and I'm sure their enthusiasm for the importance of crank length has clouded my judgement.

Isn't this why the flip-flop hub was invented? I'm running a 49t chainring with a 20t cog (66") on one side and a 18t on the other (73.5") then a set of track wheels with a 15t cog (88.2").

For the winter I've leave it with 66", I find it perfectly useable outside of central London: an average of around 95 rpm gives a speed of 30 kph, which I very rarely average above on a normal ride.

Well yes but my plan is to buy a 49t run 17t one side and 15t the other. An every day ratio and a track / TT ratio. I won't be buying a new set of wheels for racing until I know I am going to do it regularly. AS for my every day ratio my commute takes me from stoke newington to Northwick park, so i really am on open roads most of the time anything sub 70 would be far too spinny.

Any way the point of all this for any one trying to decide what ratio to run is to run whateverthefuckratioyouwanna

I find 49x17 too big, 49x19 is much more manageable for commuting/city riding espesh when brackles.