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  • i ride 48/16, commuting to and from college and weekend rides, i thought it was hard at first, but now i'm used to it and REALLY like it, easy to keep a fast pace once you get going.
    i don't think i could ride a smaller gear. it would annoy me.

    EDIT. i'm keeping my road conversion, i love it really. i just need to get some new parts to make it better for what i use it for.

  • Baby steps Tester! I'm under orders to average 100 now, which is proving to be a challenge.

    I used to average 62.

    averaging 100 means you'll have to pedal around 105 most of the time, or way above, depending on how many corners/traffic lights you encounter

  • 66GI is the golden ratio for me in London. So much easier to drop people when the lights change and they're mashing away trying to get up to speed. Much easier to skid control your bike too, or at least I find it that way.

    Whack on 70+ as soon as you get out of town though.

    This is probs true but if you are poor / lacking space like me and have to use fixed for everything then put on 70+ yes its a little slower off the lights but lower than that if you leave anything but central is so frustrating.

  • This page is a big help working out gears, rpm and speed, amongst other things. I actually found it on one of the threads on this forum when investigating ratios for my current build and was my introduction to LFGSS. Can't remember who was responsible, but many thanks!
    http://software.bareknucklebrigade.com/rabbit.applet.html

  • 66GI is the golden ratio for me in London. So much easier to drop people when the lights change and they're mashing away trying to get up to speed. Much easier to skid control your bike too, or at least I find it that way.

    I notice similar when I have a 46/30 crankset paired with 14-28 touring gears, spinny but found it so much easier to ride in London.

  • btw spotter, sorted out the GR-9s.. cheers for the tip. using SAG doublestraps with them, no issues so far.

  • i actually said about the gr9s, slight offended ed and are interchangeable

  • mks- gr9's

    You're right! thanks to you then! edscoble had the £200 quid WI ones that gave me a stiffy

  • averaging 100 means you'll have to pedal around 105 most of the time, or way above, depending on how many corners/traffic lights you encounter

    Yeah, it's not going to be easy- I suspect that is the point.

    Turbo session just now:

    Averages
    Speed (mph):17.2
    Power (watts):195
    Heart Rate (bpm):147
    Cadence (rpm):88

    Must try harder!

  • You're either in the wrong gear or have the resistance too high.

  • you'll succeed in finding the spin that suits you, just get used to focusing on rythm instead of power. try to always use the smallest gear you can comfortably 'ride' without jumping up and down on the saddle and take it from there

    (like you I just found the winter training thread so I'll move >>>>>>>)

  • you'll succeed in finding the spin that suits you, just get used to focusing on rythm instead of power. try to always use the smallest gear you can comfortably 'ride' without jumping up and down on the saddle and take it from there

    (like you I just found the winter training thread so I'll move >>>>>>>)

  • sorry, machine f*ck up - didn't mean to double post

  • You're either in the wrong gear or have the resistance too high.

    Or I'm too puny

  • J's got taste!

  • ^<

  • In other news, will I regret light-loaded touring on freewheel hubs, or should I buy a new freehub wheelset instead?

    Word is, Phil's are good enough in freewheel format for tandem touring.
    Campagnolo? Maybe hold off.
    What you got?

  • I'm in the middle of building a fixed bike and need a suggestion for pedals.
    It currently has plastic cheapy welgo pedals. I also find that pedals with cages seem to dig into my shoes, especially on quill pedals .

    I've been looking at the mks gr-9.

  • Went through this before with apolloxl, get them they are about the most comfortable flat pedals you'll find for a reasonable price.

  • @OJAW

    Campagnolo Chorus, Mavic MA2 rims, 36h double butted spokes. Really nice (and nice looking) old road wheels, but 28mm is the widest tyre I would want to fit on them (although some people say 32s and even 35s are fine) and obviously the potential axle weakness is an issue.

    I don't have a lot of money (student... still) and I don't want to miss out another summer's opportunity to tour. Since I can't afford camping stuff this year anyway, this'll cut down the weight, so I'll probably stick with my current wheels - until I can afford the tent/mat/bag and associated heavy bits, and therefore need better wheels, that is.

    EDIT - or heck, since it'll be summer, just sleep under a tarp and cook beans on a penny stove. Bag + mat would only come to 2-3kg extra anyway...

    Interestingly the Crane brothers did their 'Journey to the Centre of The Earth' on Campagnolo hubs.

  • Interestingly the Crane brothers did their 'Journey to the Centre of The Earth' on Campagnolo hubs.

    Interesting fact: hollow axles are stronger* than solid ones, due to the preload applied by the QR skewer, analogous to pre-stressed reinforced concrete.

    *i.e. take more load to bend

  • Just ordered some wheels for my road bike. Got pretty much everything else for now, will put bits I really want on it as i go, but it will have 10 speed Veloce for now. Ideally i'd like to see it with 10 speed Record Titanium. Will get there, eventually.
    Should be finished this year..

  • Interestingly the Crane brothers did their 'Journey to the Centre of The Earth' on Campagnolo hubs.

    So does the Savages when they tours the world in the 70's.

    Miles from Nowhere: Amazon.co.uk: Barbara Savage: Books

  • @lae
    In that case, put the fattest rubber on that rim that you dare.
    Lots have had no problems with tires "labelled" up to 35mm.

  • I'm running 32c tyres on my road bike, only because it's the max clearance with the brakes.

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Current Projects chat and miscellany

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