Current Projects chat and miscellany

Can somebody remind me exactly how many milimeters of spacers I should have and what angle my stem should be so that my bike can look the right way?

late to the party, but no-one's linked you to it yet, so...
STS

I'm fitting a cadence/speed sensor, and a computer with GPS, an altometer, and a thermometer, to my roadie tonight.

Although considering there's an inch of snow outside, signaling the start of winter, and roller training in the workroom. I'm not sure the last 3 are entirely needed.

In other news. I will be taking a dremel to the spider of the cranks for the fatbike build. The 31T chainring is just a smidge too small.

a power-meter is pointless without target led expert analysis.

Well, as long as you'd call Rob an expert we're ok on that score.

Ex as in once was, Spurt as in drip under pressure.

Spacer fascism is a growth area. Hence OTP headtubes getting longer.

Music to I (and stonehedge's) ears that is.

Spacer fascism is a growth area. Hence OTP headtubes getting longer.

or manufacturers (fuji and specialized for example) producing 2 lines of bikes. one for those lacking in flexibility and one for those with.

Low bars reduce visibility in traffic.

WTF is this!?!?

http://blog.wiggle.com/wp-content/uploads/assos-carbon.jpg

late to the party, but no-one's linked you to it yet, so...
STS

Low pro, no?

Just imagine where the drops would be with a normal bar/stem and it'll make sense.

EDIT: in fact, why aren't all track bikes like this? Surely this has to be stiffer than having a steerer + stem + bars?

or manufacturers (fuji and specialized for example) producing 2 lines of bikes. one for those lacking in flexibility and one for those with.

Indeed. But the "sportive model" still carries some negative connotations that certain customers don't like, no? I think Cervélo tried it (with the RS) but they seem to have dropped that and just hiked the headtubes across the board, on the assumption that a -17° stem will fix it if you want an old-fashioned 'pro' drop to the bars.

EDIT: in fact, why aren't all track bikes like this? Surely this has to be stiffer than having a steerer + stem + bars?

Simply reducing the headtube length would give similar position like this;

Oh my life ^want^

For no other reason than commuting to work.

I'm fitting a cadence/speed sensor, and a computer with GPS, an altometer, and a thermometer, to my roadie tonight.

Although considering there's an inch of snow outside, signaling the start of winter, and roller training in the workroom. I'm not sure the last 3 are entirely needed.

In other news. I will be taking a dremel to the spider of the cranks for the fatbike build. The 31T chainring is just a smidge too small.

I thought raceface were going under? haz they been bought out?

Simply reducing the headtube length would give similar position like this;

True.

I guess the real reason is that a stem allows you to go up and down, forward and back. If it's fixed to the forks then you're stuck. I'm only really thinking about people who don't buy their bikes.

But I'm sure it could be done... set frame and then variable forks.

I thought raceface were going under? haz they been bought out?

I though they were going down too. There have certianly been massive reductions on the price of their components, all over the web. The RaceFace internet site still looks pretty up to date though.

I picked up an extra 100mm X-type BB just in case.

Simply reducing the headtube length would give similar position like this;

This bike makes me feel warm and tingly inside.

So my Fix got stolen, it was locked properly, so I'm pissed off, but I had to do something. So I bought a Batavus roadbike very cheap (40 euro's) With a lot of usable parts. Today i did some cleaning and took some spare parts out, still looking for a black seat and a rearwheel/wheelset.

define "properly locked"

2 locks, 1 U lock, 1 chain lock. I was in a cycling store for about 15 mins. Then i returned and it was gone.

yeah but what did you lock it to?

also not all U locks are born equal. what kind of U lock was it? i'm not wanting to have a go at someone whose lost their bike (sorry for you dude!), but in future you might want to bear in mind using a big fuck off kyrptonite new york/ top of the range abus or similar. see locks that work thread if you didn't already know about it. if you were using one when it was stolen, let us know about the details? could be helpful

finally got a chance to take pics of the mini fagh locking rear(dp18 rim/28c tyre)/frame/sheffield stand.

I also figured out how to lock my front/frame/sheffield stand with an evo mini for the first time too...

this is how I rolls...

So I had it the same, nice and strong U lock through the rearfork and wheel. Then a chain lock around the bik and a Pilar that was in front of the store, a very big pilar. I was in there for 15 mins and they'd cut the chain lock and just took it. Well, it is a good lesson for the next time I guess. But still fked cause I had built the bike together with my little brother who didn't wake up a week after I was ready. So a lot of emotion was into the bike.