Current Projects chat and miscellany

That's such a gorgeous frame.

Rookie wheel build fail. Lovely overall look though.

I generally preferred using specialized 1"...for faster rolling resistance

Narrower != lower rolling resistance. If you want something a bit more sporty than Big Apples (you don't, but there's no accounting for taste), Marathon Racer Evo is available in 40-559
http://www.schwalbetires.com/bike_tires/road_tires/marathon_racer_429
I'm sure you could run them tubeless with sealant
http://www.schwalbetires.com/mtb_tl-ready

^^Why's that?

The placement of the valve holes in the wheel.

Go on...

current location doesn't leave much room for pump head, should be two gaps further round.

I see.

goes and checks wheels in anticipation of shouting at various established wheel-builders from a position of ignorance

If the specialized armadillo mtb slicks are anything like the road ones then I think you should try another tyre...

...IMO altho the puncture protection is good, they're pretty hideous tyres.

+1 Best move I made with my Sirus was ditching the armadildos for Schwalbe Marathon.

On-one are still clearing tyres at the moment and still have a range of the schwalbe trecking tyres. I might look at some 1.5" Pacellas for the summer road use, if the 700c is anything to go by they should fly.

Narrower != lower rolling resistance.

Whilst I knew of the Big Apple and some of this I got caught out myself. Been running 1.75" Michelin Country Rock on the new MTB build, changed over to 2.35" Smart Sam's (for £14 a pair they looked worth a try). The Michelin are a closed block smooth design, the Sams much more MTB knobbly but with a centre ridge patern.

The larger tyres are lighter and roll more easily, even at 30psi less than I was running the Michelins at. I've only been on them a few days but I'm finding I'm consistantly a couple of gears higher than I had been on the same surfaces and moving much faster.

I'll still use the country rock for playing at street due to less squirm, but I'd rather do a long road ride on the smart sams.

just for the record, Wilkinson's own brand paint stripper is awful. This combined with my lack of skill have made a right mess of my project's frame.

Wire brush+drill+mask. Cheap but time consuming.

just for the record, Wilkinson's own brand paint stripper is awful. This combined with my lack of skill have made a right mess of my project's frame.

you have to leave it overnight for it to work, spend the extra cash get nitromors

you have to leave it overnight for it to work, spend the extra cash get nitromors

ah ok. I left it for 40 minutes yesterday, bad result so did it again today, and still bad result. (i said i lacked skill).
think I'll just save up and get it properly sandblasted and painted.
i did however find that underneath the paint on the frame was another layer of paint, the original paint job. The most lush metallic British racing green, and i unearthed some very nice chrome bits on the seat tube.
So, I'll get it powder coated metallic British racing green.

dont powder coat it, enamel that badboy. will retain the detailing in the lugs...

Am I the only one who thinks that when ever I reply to WILLPALMER I should be flailing my arms and shouting DANGER WILLPALMER DANGER!

Last city bike I built up ended up with totally minimalist setup and removed rear brake, front gears, and cut down the flat bars I had. Not to everyones taste, but it worked just fine for me and was a very fast bike for a mountain bike framed, 26"er. Just had to be aware to keep your weight back when braking heavily, which was never an issue with me.

That is crazy, city bike with no back brake, sorry but that makes no sense. You realise the "trend" for removing the rear brake is down to people with fixed rear wheels...? What happens when you need to brake suddenly going round a greasy city corner in the wet? Only thing that is going to be friendly with the road is your elbows...

might get it sandblasted (hopefully not to the point of destruction) (30£) then either paint it myself or clear coat it to save a few £.

I see.

goes and checks wheels in anticipation of shouting at various established wheel-builders from a position of ignorance

Right is right and wrong is wrong. What if everybody just did like they wanted. Then we would have a planet full of pollution, violence, corrupt governments and wars.

Lets start whit one of those small things and place the valve on the right spot....

http://valvefail.blogspot.com/

might get it sandblasted (hopefully not to the point of destruction) (30£) then either paint it myself or clear coat it to save a few £.

Fairly sure that will wreck the chrome, get some Nitromors and reevaluate

Narrower != lower rolling resistance. If you want something a bit more sporty than Big Apples (you don't, but there's no accounting for taste), Marathon Racer Evo is available in 40-559
http://www.schwalbetires.com/bike_tires/road_tires/marathon_racer_429
I'm sure you could run them tubeless with sealant
http://www.schwalbetires.com/mtb_tl-ready

LIKE! A set of those 1.5" would go on sweet I reckon, especially if I go the sealant and tubeless option. Gonna need a new chainring... and chain... and some clipless shoes... (who would steal a set of cycling shoes?!) :D

That is crazy, city bike with no back brake, sorry but that makes no sense. You realise the "trend" for removing the rear brake is down to people with fixed rear wheels...? What happens when you need to brake suddenly going round a greasy city corner in the wet? Only thing that is going to be friendly with the road is your elbows...

Ok, as I stated, it was never an issue and it worked for me. Building your own bike for your own needs is exactly that, I liked it, it rode well, who else cares?! But, if it helps, this was kinda my reasoning; was running a 1" total slick on rear and 1.35" with more grip on front, also had Magura hydraulic rim brakes and just found the rear would skid at slightest chance it had, but was nice and quick, so as I never really used the rear brake or front gears, I decided to try without them on a rebuild and it worked fine. I used it almost daily in and around London and then Canterbury for about 6-7yrs before it was stolen and I loved that bike. It was the main reason why I went for another mountain bike frame with this new build, as I liked the versatility and general toughness. But I would like to do a 700cc fixie based build now too. Did build a Peugeot SS ratbike many yrs ago which I had for all of 3 weeks before it was stolen! But never got on with it as it had crap ratios, something like a 52/12 if memory serves right... :P

my build has been a learning experience, particularly with the wheel. Recently, realized i did a no-no. Laced high flange hubs in a radial pattern, cause of concern is that they had previously been laced 3 cross (been riding on them for 4 months now). According to Sheldon Brown's, "If a used hub is re-laced radially, the notches left by the old spokes can act as stress risers, further weakening the flange." Can i have the spokes re-laced to 3 cross and not worry, or do i need to start over and rebuild a new wheel?

Update on the leader, I said it was finished and not a project - how was I mistaken.

Due to I'll design and/or my mahoosive bum, the seat post area gave way and frame is a write-off.

Can anyone lend me a 31.6mm seat post for a week until mail-order shipped mine for the warranty replacement frame? Needless to say, it won't be another 735 frame. I also have the original leader carbon aero post going for sale now, if anyone is interested. Pm me for measurements, but I know it's for a 27.2mm clamp.

Thanks in advance!

Hang on, you new FRAME is broken?

if it is that would explain the creaking

Ouch, hope you weren't going at any speed when that happened reeen?!

Ouch, hope you weren't going at any speed when that happened reeen?!

This is Reen we are talking about. Of corse he was going fast. One time owner of the fastest Unipack in England (if not the world).