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• #5127
that looks lovely. surely straight forks would make the overlap worse though? i love those cranks and chainring, they looks sick
Thanks. So a straightbladed fork wont help? I thought people were using them to fix such problems for barspins and cornering. Or is my clearence just too small to fix at all?
Wanted to get this fork, fits my lugs and chrome track ends. -
• #5128
no, it should fix the toe overlap problem as the rake will be less severe.
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• #5129
and you will be able to barspin
yay -
• #5130
and you will be able to barspin
yayI think you can barspin anyway with the original fork, a more relaxed fork have less clearance for barspin despite a bigger clearance between the wheel and the downtube.
toe overlap isn't really a problem, it's more of a case of getting used to it.
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• #5131
Actually I dont need to barspin, as I dont do tricks. I just want to do corners without scraping my 4spoke... yaaaay.
orginal fork wont allow a full spin btw, by 1-2cms overlap.
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• #5132
I've got some teaser pics of my project - nearly done!
http://i256.photobucket.com/albums/hh183/provenrad/bicycles/collage.jpg
http://i256.photobucket.com/albums/hh183/provenrad/bicycles/img_0866Modified.jpg -
• #5133
gears BTW.
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• #5134
Shimano 600 BTW.
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• #5135
Nice prav.
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• #5136
nice one prav
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• #5137
gears BTW.
gears FTW! ;)
Looks like it's going to be beautiful that prav
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• #5138
no, it should fix the toe overlap problem as the rake will be less severe.
i would have thought a straight fork will worsen the problem as it will bring the wheel further back. Surely what you need is more rake which will move the wheel forward and away from your pedals. Either that or get some shorter cranks (or only go on bike rides in a straight line...). Shorter clips will give you less leverage when braking on your back leg (make it easier for your foot to pull up and out) so i wouldn't go with that solution.
feel free to correct me if i'm wrong
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• #5139
i would have thought a straight fork will worsen the problem as it will bring the wheel further back.
a track fork, yes but there are straight fork that have a road geometry, even thought they're straight they sit further forward, like the charge one below;
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• #5140
this picture illustrate it better, imaging the red line is your typical road fork, they're usually in line with the head set, but bend forward near the end.
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• #5141
@bmx_fred... /\ wot he said./
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• #5142
But, if the fork ends end up in the same place as in the picture above, how does it make any difference?
EDIT: ok i get it
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• #5143
Cranks are 165, pedals are mks gr-9 platforms that maybe could be shorter, and clips are plastic Zefal ones in M. The overlap is 2-3 cm, so I'm just gonna try out some shorter pedals and more compact alloy clips.
In the menatime I need to find me that fork, someone is selling them on Ebay nicely priced, but wont ship to Europe. Mosquito-bikes.co.uk seems to have them but I find them quite pricely. Anyone know any other sellers? -
• #5144
Cranks are 165, pedals are mks gr-9 platforms that maybe could be shorter, and clips are plastic Zefal ones in M. The overlap is 2-3 cm, so I'm just gonna try out some shorter pedals and more compact alloy clips.
In the menatime I need to find me that fork, someone is selling them on Ebay nicely priced, but wont ship to Europe. Mosquito-bikes.co.uk seems to have them but I find them quite pricely. Anyone know any other sellers?yeh i've spoken to that ebay seller before, adamant they won't ship here, but maybe they would for two sales. I'd buy a pair with 24cm+ steerer, might do the shipping if they make more sales, see if anyone else would need a set? might work.
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• #5145
how do lock rings work? and how do you put one on?
i want to build my own fixie but, i've never owned/ridden one before -
• #5146
how do lock rings work? and how do you put one on?
i want to build my own fixie but, i've never owned/ridden one before
]a lock ring fits on a track hub, after the sprocket.
It stops the sprocket threading off said hub and causing death to the rider.You need a special tool to remove/replace lock rings, and a chain whip to remove/replace sprockets.
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• #5147
(BTW Sorry for the dark images, struggling with inbuilt flash on camera).
Outside pic FTW.
1 Attachment
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• #5148
Outside pic FTW.
We don't ALL have mountains in our back garden ;)
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• #5149
whats the metal bracket between the downtube and forks on that bob jackson?
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• #5150
whats the metal bracket between the downtube and forks on that bob jackson?
TT Brake lever.
http://www.londonfgss.com/members3147-albums261-picture1204.html
The bike set-up is for out of town rides (hence biggish gear), so figured I'd like the brake handy, when going down hill (or flat out) with my hands on the drops.
Makes things a bit iffy in traffic, but it is reassuring when hammering it on country roads.
Cheers guys, its been fun building it. I'm just relieved that the ride is as good as I hoped (hats off to the guys at Bob Jackson). The weather is turning colder again, so not sure how much I'll be able to ride it before spring.
Worth mentioning that I new next to nothing about assembling a bike, before I started this project + joined this site (and of course read Sheldon Browns). So a huge thankyou to anyone whos ever posted anything useful on here ;)