Current Projects chat and miscellany

what are the signs that you need new disc brake pads?

Worst case, metal to metal contact. Usually best to bin them well before that though, compare old ones with new and if the friction material is worn about 2/3 of the way through they're ready for replacement.

@b'jammin

Can we see a bigger pic of your Roberts, please?

wishihadboughtit

What's going on with the cable anchorage in the levers?

The silver bits poking out the ends? Standard fit on those levers (Acor). The silver bit is an adjuster. Unnecessary but I'd only loose them if I took them off.

I think they're actually CX crosstop levers but I'd have to ask my brother.

Built. Slightly heavier than hoped but I guess that's what happens when you add mudguards and drop levers. Rides very nicely indeed, surprisingly comfortable and stiffer under power than I remember the one I tried a while back being - but that could be partly the stiffness of the Stronglight cranks. Which, incidentally, I'm not hugely impressed with in terms of finish - the spider came up not quite straight (might be the BB but I really don't think so) and fractionally fouled the chainstay in a couple of places, necessitating a bit of judicious filing of the sharp edges. They were cheap though.

Have some sunset & lens flare.

Had to take a full inch off the mudguard stays, drill the rear guard (as the seatstay bridge has a vertical bolt fitting rather than a normal brake boss), and use a small stack of washers to space the front mudguard bracket far enough forward not to foul the headset. Bit of a pain in the arse, frankly, and I have to fit another set to a friend's Fratello in a couple of weeks. Meh. Dry arse this winter though, yay.

This Winter? It's now summer...

don't support your bike by the top tube, always use the seat tube

why?

current projects continue to rock for few pages in a row now! =))

@b'jammin

Can we see a bigger pic of your Roberts, please?

wishihadboughtit

Sure thing, there's a few uploaded on my Flickr

gladyoudidn'tboughtit

@ scorch, that is one of the thinist tubes on a bike, especially in the middle, you can easily fnck it

^ ok
^^ B, i love the yellow! =)) what are those LF hubs? LH is the new HF, unless you go gears of course...

*gladyoudidn'tbuyit*

;p ftfy

I know.. you did a good job, very nice. Reminds me of mine Flite>XA>black Microtex ;)

LH is the new HF...

Really?

Gleb, they are Mack hubs.

This Winter? It's now summer...

London's famous summer... Yeah, I know. They look rubbish as well, but it's functional - I'm trying to prolong the life of the frame from the start. Had it framesaver-ed as well.

@ Murtle, I'm careful not to clamp it hard there. If I need it clamped hard enough for leverage or anything I do tend to use the seat tube.

LF hubs should be laced to deepV rims, in track use, and the other way around (HF hubs to low profile rims). AT least this is my fundamental idea/knowledge about spoke tension. Amirite?*(genuine question)

@ Murtle, I'm careful not to clamp it hard there. If I need it clamped hard enough for leverage or anything I do tend to use the seat tube.

The weight of the bike itself should be enough, not to be that good, I guess..

LF hubs should be laced to deepV rims, in track use, and the other way around (HF hubs to low profile rims). AT least this is my fundamental idea/knowledge about spoke tension. Amirite?*(genuine question)

No. Not particularly.

;p ftfy
that was intentional, don't know why, but cheers. I've been in cornwall for a month bey, and my grammar is slipping.

I know.. you did a good job, very nice. Reminds me of mine Flite>XA>black Microtex ;)

Can't beat it really, although i might try a Black Jag or Pearl a little bit shorter length. Where's yours at for a gander?

I'm trying to prolong the life of the frame from the start. Had it framesaver-ed as well.

Bob Jacksons are pretty sturdy, none of that weak Italian soft cheese, made in Leeds innit! Don't think you need to worry about prolonging it's life... My BJ frame is over 30 years old and still going strong, Looks like it's had a hard life as well.

B'jammin that roberts is very lush... what you thinking for seatpost? Can you get black anodised aero posts?

Lulz.

LF hubs should be laced to deepV rims, in track use, and the other way around (HF hubs to low profile rims). AT least this is my fundamental idea/knowledge about spoke tension. Amirite?*(genuine question)

is there anything else behind this except "should"? this is genuine question. i never heard of such "combos" being a must

Amirite?*(genuine question)

In general, no. LF* (which stands for Large Flange) only makes a difference if the spokes are not tangential, and the difference it makes is barely worth having. SF (which stands for Small Flange) has essentially the same bracing angle when tangentially spoked, so axial stiffness of the wheel remains the same. On a rear wheel, the extra distance of the spoke hole from the axle does increase torsional stiffness slightly, and it's just about possible to see that using a lower crossing number with a LF rear hub will get you equal torsional stiffness to a SF hub and a little more axial stiffness, but people seem to manage just fine without this marginal improvement. In the end, choosing LF hubs is a 99% aesthetic decision.

*Merkins us LF for Low Flange and HF for High Flange, but they are idiots and should not be encouraged.

No. Not particularly.

Well, i specified track use but would obviously stand corrected.

HSBC_Tester, thanks. ;)

*I was using LF = Low flange, my bad.