Current Projects chat and miscellany

probably velo orange or nitto. I have the nitto mod177aa noodle bar(the rivendell bar) and it's really comfy for all kinds of riding.

http://www.hubjub.co.uk/nitto/nitto.htm

http://www.freshtripe.co.uk/Freshtripe/Handlebars,%20Headsets%20%26%20Stems.html

alas, none of those!

worst picture ever, but you can sort of see what I mean, from the side they had a very angular 45 degree slope with a curvy 'ramp' to them (if thats the right term), from the front you can see the 'raised' bit either side of the stem clamp area, and the drops generally kick out just a little bit. also it had pretty crude cable routing tucks in the pipework. any ideas?

Really nice!

Personally I'd ditch the red pedals/straps, add some bartape, ditch the knogs (if only for the photo), match the front wheel to the rear rather than the other way round and take a drive side photo next time!

I'd also add that I'm only nit picking because I think it's a nice build but I also understand that minor changes like those mentioned are very much an owner orientated thing.

/ramble.

Cor - tough crowd! Knogs are only on for the night time riding, quite like the red pedals but going to cages from SPDs is weird but i think they suit the build, picking up silver open pro tomorrow and delibertaing on white/black or brooks bar tape

Why would you even consider this? Bolt on sprockets are fully bi-directional, and there are millions of disc hubs out there ready to be pressed into service.

Art....

Probably was me, and the bar were likely to be Nitto/Velo Orange.

Nitto one are easier to get from both Freshtripe and Hubjub.

Art....

ORLY? been done thousand's of times before. There are you can buy leftie BMX hubs if you're really into that type of thing

worst picture ever, but you can sort of see what I mean, from the side they had a very angular 45 degree slope with a curvy 'ramp' to them (if thats the right term), from the front you can see the 'raised' bit either side of the stem clamp area, and the drops generally kick out just a little bit. also it had pretty crude cable routing tucks in the pipework. any ideas?

Like I said before Nitto Randonneur is your choice as seen in hubjub and freshtripe, not sure why you didn't managed to see my previous post, have you got me on ignored?

Drawing match exactly the Nitto (well not exactly);

I wish i could have those on my Peugeot build

[QUOTE=mdcc_tester;2008414]Avoid, unless you need ultra wide gearing on a 120mm spaced frame and have the Suntour rear mech which can handle the 34 sprocket.

I have a modern long cage XT that works just fine for the 14-34 spread. Not pretty, but this combo keeps my knees happy and still allows for that ultra-wide range with a single chainring (which was what I was suggesting for the BJ).

ed, I haven't got anyone set to ignore (although I should maybe put hippy in that list), I like the look of the nitto rando bar, but this one was a fair bit more angular looking, with the most used part of the drop at near 45degrees when viewed from the side.

currently have 2 bars, one with a deep round drop, the other with a very shallow round drop, I've got big hands and find the larger drop more comfy, but would find a set with the drop part as a diagonal rather than a round much more comfy again i think; thats what those 'other' bars were like.
I'm going to trawl through all the history on browser at work to see where I found 'those' bars at, wish me luck!

This?

grossssss

This?

damn nearly!!!

FOUND THEM!! and the psot was actually 4years ago and the company doesn't exist and I'll never find a pair..

http://velo-orange.blogspot.com/2007/09/modernist-randonneur-bars.html

Any ideas on something similar? I know to most they are fugly but most road bars do to me, unless they are 30" OS risers on a mountain bike with a monkey strapped to them (don't ask, but he is a real monkey), but tehy look practical, which is what I'm after, something I can ride all day on and not think twice about it.

The black one I've posted are the ITM Marathon.

In all honestly, I think you'll be pretty comfortable with a nitto/velo orange randonneur.

Problem:

I think the steerer on my forks is too short!
The threaded forks that came off it have a shorter steerer, and used spacers, but without spacers there is a 2cm gap between the top of the stem and the top of the steerer. Is this too much? When I go to tighten the top nut of the headset the stem turns without the forks under pressure...

It is a Look hsc 2 fork, Thomson elite stem and Stronglight o'light threadless 1" headset.

I have shimmed the Thomson stem, (Homemade job) could that be effecting it?
The height of the headset?
The height of the stem to steerer clamp?

Or do I just need a longer steerer?

resolutions?

Will try and get a photo to demonstrate...

Sounds like the steerer is too short. If i understand correctly you switched from threaded to threadless. A solution might be a stem with a shorter "tube to stick the steerer in" as 2 cm isn`t that much too short.

the Thomson has a 4.5cm clamp, I'm not sure how much smaller stem-steerer clamps will go...

the Thomson has a 4.5cm clamp, I'm not sure how much smaller stem-steerer clamps will go...

You should really have the whole stem filled with steerer, preferably with a bit sticking out the top, with a spacer on it.

If you are trying to convert from a threaded headset to a threadless, you shouldn't, unless you get new longer forks.

If you a still using the threaded headset but want an ahead stem, use a quill to ahead converter.

Tenderloin, is there a gap between the top of the stem/top spacer and the top of the steerer? The steerer should be a couple of mm lower.

The steerer finishes about 1.5cm inside the stem.

I have now made the shim slightly thicker as the stem was rocking forward on the steerer, there is now no play forward or side to side. Would that have been the problem?

The headset is for an ahead stem.
There are no spacers as there is no room on the steerer for them, I am also using one of the M;part expanding top nuts as the steerer is carbon, so a standard star nut thing wouldn't have been advisable. I think.

nitto noodle it is then! dropped by a mates house on way back from work this eve who by some ridiculous strike of coincidence has a pair in 42cm on his 1940's raleigh. From web photos I hadn't appreciated the subtle curves to the top of them and very slight turn out in the drops.

Job Done, cheers people of LFGSS for the info, especially edscobble :p

The steerer finishes about 1.5cm inside the stem.

I have now made the shim slightly thicker as the stem was rocking forward on the steerer, there is now no play forward or side to side. Would that have been the problem?

The headset is for an ahead stem.
There are no spacers as there is no room on the steerer for them, I am also using one of the M;part expanding top nuts as the steerer is carbon, so a standard star nut thing wouldn't have been advisable. I think.

Assuming the stem has two fixing bolts, the steerer should extend above both of them. If not, it's unsafe.

1.5cm is quite a lot. Can you take a picture?

nitto noodle it is then!

Bear in mind that there's two shape - the noodle and the randonneur.

the noodle doesn't flare out at the drop like the randonneur, and the top section bend downward instead of upward like the randonneur.

But they both have similar curve near the corner though, picture doesn't show it in the randonneur, but mine defintely have a curve.

Noodle;

Randonneur;

my 2p but the nitto randononeur are the most comfy bars I have ever ridden even without brake hoods on them & the flare makes you feel like a Ice-Man in Top Gun when you drop down!

Cannot get enough of mine.

the only drawback is that the reach from the brake hood is further away than the current handlebar I used to ride on (compact), so end up switching a 100mm stem for a short 80mm.

luckily doesn't affect the handling that much.