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• #39827
A tenner for henner's butterfly sound perfect, let me know when you're back in London's famous London.
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• #39828
will do ed, will do.
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• #39829
I think I now understood perfectly what you mean about not getting used to the internal hubs that you originally want to use on the Geekhouse, as it doesn't feel direct when you change ratios (something along that line?).
Although I find it's fine for what I used to for, but your point was noted.
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• #39830
You can see the derailleur here with the 3 speed freewheel (set-up for 1/8 chain only);
http://i256.photobucket.com/albums/hh167/edscoble/aa893e7a.jpg?t=1295824021
Pm'ed
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• #39831
I don't have QR for the brakes
You can unhook the yoke from the straddle cable if you need to open the brake to pass the tyre
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• #39832
^very difficult to accomplish.
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• #39833
Not as difficult as taking the brake blocks off. I used to do it when I had some 999s.
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• #39834
I agree, but a better solution is to look around for somethign like this:
http://the-bici.com/index.php?_a=viewProd&productId=151 -
• #39835
True, although I had a front one which bent under the pressure and the QR lever gouged the head tube.
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• #39836
I wish I'd saved the ones from my mum's old bike. That old frame could have made me a lovely conversion.
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• #39837
Ride TT bike.
This^
I love Guru TT bikes. A fair few one go quite cheaply on US EBay. I was tempted by quite a few when looking to source a Geneo frame I could afford. Love that blue and yellow colourway too. Beautifully made bikes
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• #39838
So my work is finally done (well maybe). Here are a couple of before and after pics as well as a link to more details if you are interested.
More details:
http://reduxrides.blogspot.com/
2 Attachments
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• #39839
Not as difficult as taking the brake blocks off. I used to do it when I had some 999s.
I tried unhooking the yoke, but it was not a real option given that my yoke fits quite snug around the cable. Even if the yoke solution is feasible, I would have to apply the spanner to the brake blocks anyway because flipping sides with different sprocket sizes changes the wheel position. If the brake blocks are left in its intended position for the freewheel application, with the smaller sprocket (fixed) in play and the wheel positioned slightly more towards the rear (given that I don't swap chains or chainwheels when flipping the rear wheel), there is a bit of the brake blocks that touch the tyre if the brake is applied, which could happen unintentionally. So, if I'm going to touch the brake blocks anyway, then why not make that the solution rather than doing other things? Or, do people generally have same size sprockets on both sides of a flipflop wheel? Or, get a chain tensioner?
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• #39840
^^ Nice that Bill
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• #39841
cant believe you resprayed a raleigh castorama! blastphemy! i like the end product, but the original paintjob is my favourite non custom paintwork of any bike. oh well, it looks like a great ride
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• #39842
cant believe you resprayed a raleigh castorama! blastphemy! i like the end product, but the original paintjob is my favourite non custom paintwork of any bike. oh well, it looks like a great ride
I know, I know, I agonised for a long time after buying the castorama as to how sacrilegious it was to have it stripped and resprayed. I eventually decided that it was in such poor condition that something had to be done, because the paint and decals were for want of a better word "fucked". Under the new paint job, still beats the heart of the original frame, and I made a record of it's original incarnation so that it's history can be acknowledged. This bike has been built to be ridden every day, which it will, so at least the frame lives on in some kind of way.
I hear what you are saying about the original paintjob though, and if it had been in good nick i would have left well enough alone.
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• #39843
^^ Nice that Bill
Thanks, and it rides as good as it looks, which was the main aim!
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• #39844
good answer, and a bike well ridden beats a bike well looked at every day of the week. power to you
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• #39845
good answer, and a bike well ridden beats a bike well looked at every day of the week. power to you
Thanks, I thought it was important to underline that I was aware of what I was about to do, and that it was a decision that wasn't made lightly! Tried to respect it by doing a good job (with a bit of help from Argos Cycles on the frame!).
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• #39846
good answer, and a bike well ridden beats a bike well looked at every day of the week. power to you
this.
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• #39847
That is awesome!
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• #39848
I agree, but a better solution is to look around for somethign like this:
http://the-bici.com/index.php?_a=viewProd&productId=151I agree, but the Weinmann ones go for silly money, if they come up on the market. Also, I had several bad experiences with brake QRs when I used to race BMX: becoming undone during a heat all on its own, my foot catching the QR lever and undoing it, etc. Although I won't be riding this one like I did a BMX, I simply do not have much love for QRs...
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• #39849
I agree, but the Weinmann ones go for silly money, if they come up on the market. Also, I had several bad experiences with brake QRs when I used to race BMX: becoming undone during a heat all on its own, my foot catching the QR lever and undoing it, etc. Although I won't be riding this one like I did a BMX, I simply do not have much love for QRs...
I got one of these for free the other day. I took the quick release bit off because I had no idea how it works! can someone enlighten me?
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• #39850
So my work is finally done (well maybe). Here are a couple of before and after pics as well as a link to more details if you are interested.
More details:
http://reduxrides.blogspot.com/Loving this. You've done exactly the right thing by painting it. Looks awsome.
The Kalivinka frame must've been like 1200. But I guess you got in before the 2.5%VAT rise. In my opinion the bike is totally dope. Although me I'd have gone low profile rim, but whats there looks awesome. I'd bid at 3500.