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• #36427
if the wheels have tubes in them take them out and get some tubeless sealant
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• #36428
Bunny hopping is so easy as when you compress and jump up the suspension does the work for you
Needs more rebound damping
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• #36429
if the wheels have tubes in them take them out and get some tubeless sealant
Yeah the tyres are 'tubeless ready' but do have tubes. I got a flat on my first ride out going through some brambles and it took me about an hour and a half to figure out how to get the front wheel off! The whole axle slips out of its housing. Crazy. It's cool to feel like a total noob! This bike is so tech and complex compared to my other bikes (tourer and fixeds) it's like a motor bike. And @ MDCC - yes I'm going to have to do a bunch of reading on damping and the like. The rear shock has a platform switch so you can select 3 different levels of 'give'. The forks have 12" of travel that you can adjust by tweaking the dials on the crowns, and it has a 'special feature' called IT or 'Intelligent Travel' which is controlled by an additional switch on the bars that allows you to limit the travel in the front forks. From what I've read - and those who know please feel free to flame or advise all you want - this means I can limit the travel for more control over loose but even ground, and should I then happen upon a big drop, I have to pull up the front end, hit the switch, and the suspension extends to its max so I have as much cushioning as possible.
It really is ridiculous. I can't stop laughing! So much fun to be had! I will have to buy a helmet.
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• #36430
sigh more LFGSS MTB talk.
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• #36431
sigh more LFGSS bicycle talk.
fixed.
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• #36432
This is my first build, the bits are mostly salvaged from freecycle and various friends. The frame is way too big for me, hence the low seat post. I'm looking to sell it (the frame only) on get a new one, hoping hilary might have something tasty in my size. As you can see the gearing is pretty high, which I love. I know the chain is slack, will fix that in a moment, and I did a shoddy job on the handlebar tape. Learn by doing!
I'd appreciate it if any of you could give me a rough estimate on the worth of the frame - a couple of people have offered to buy/trade it and I don't want to get taken for a ride. I can provide more detailed photos if you want. It's a Raleigh Sirocco, I think it's from the early 80s. I love it but it's just too big!
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• #36433
Decided to keep the wheels...
had a 32mm tire fitted on the rear, and when i was doing that i had to use metal levers because plastic ones werent strong enough. and even then i had to do it twice as the first time i punctured the inner tube!
so I discovered upon removing the tyre that there we quite a few marks left on the outside edge by the metal lever.... argg!!
I had to explain this to the buyer and that i wouldnt sell it because id described it as very lightly used condition on my listing....
and buyer agreed that it wouldnt be for him with all the marksbut at the same time quite happy to keep them anyways...
thanks for the advice, I def want some bigger tyres on this bike.
did you end up selling your wheels? Im still trying to decide on what wheels to put on this bike. Im not going to keep the sx3 hub so Im still looking for a rear wheel or pair. -
• #36434
Jamie, the frame look pretty decent and is in good nick (as far as I can see), and have Reynolds 531 so we know it's a decent frame.
measure it (centre of bottom bracket to top) and measure the top tube length too (centre to centre), you'll find a buyer here for that size, I says £50-75 top.
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• #36435
Finally finished my bling bling carbon wheels. Bit of a tricky wheelset, but hopefully they'll be worth it. Should be just over 1.3 Kg for the pair, and the rear should feel nice and responsive.
Tune hubs laced to 48mm deep carbon clincher rims. Front radial with 2.2mm bladed spokes. Rear triplet with 2.5mm bladed spokes. The drive side have 16 3x spokes and the non-driveside 8 1x spokes.
Had to partially un-lace the rear and re-lace after a bit feck up. Actually thought my rear spokes were all too short. Which would have left me a bit buggered as repeating my calculations kept giving me the same lengths. Turns out I just needed to move my driveside trailing spokes around one rim hole.
Internal nipples with washers were a massive PITA the thread, but very nice to true (after I had dremel'd the holes to fit my spanner.
Rear hub drillings need some dremel treatment for my 2.5mm rear bladed spokes.
Photos later.....
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• #36436
Yeah the tyres are 'tubeless ready' but do have tubes. I got a flat on my first ride out going through some brambles and it took me about an hour and a half to figure out how to get the front wheel off! The whole axle slips out of its housing. Crazy. It's cool to feel like a total noob! This bike is so tech and complex compared to my other bikes (tourer and fixeds) it's like a motor bike. And @ MDCC - yes I'm going to have to do a bunch of reading on damping and the like. The rear shock has a platform switch so you can select 3 different levels of 'give'. The forks have 12" of travel that you can adjust by tweaking the dials on the crowns, and it has a 'special feature' called IT or 'Intelligent Travel' which is controlled by an additional switch on the bars that allows you to limit the travel in the front forks. From what I've read - and those who know please feel free to flame or advise all you want - this means I can limit the travel for more control over loose but even ground, and should I then happen upon a big drop, I have to pull up the front end, hit the switch, and the suspension extends to its max so I have as much cushioning as possible.
It really is ridiculous. I can't stop laughing! So much fun to be had! I will have to buy a helmet.
from what you have said above you need help setting it up properly. you will not achieve this over the internet.
some basic pointers.
depending on the suspension design you may not need to touch the pro-pedal. depending on what shock (rp3?) you may not get enough bob to warrent setting on 2-3 and can leave it on 1 or off. just try it to see how active it is climbing and what difference setting 1or2 makes. (i use mine off and switch to 1 for climbing).what you say about the front forks sounds like internet bullshit theory™. set it up to not pack down over repeated bumps and have the right amount of sag and rebound speed, any lockout/travel reduction use it for long climbs only, all that fiddling between different settings is a waste of time if you have set it up right in the first place it shouldn't be needed.
if you had been running sealent then you would probably have not had a puncture, it would have self sealed.
(still take a tube with you though in case the hole is too big to seal.) -
• #36437
this is my work in progress. i was hoping to have it ridable yesterday but need a 30mm brake bolt and a saddle with round rails, not oval ones!! other than that its good to go.
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• #36438
Aero is my middle name. I feel a bit like velodrome ninja.
more pics on
http://www.fixedgear.se/forum/viewtopic.php?f=1&t=6007&p=85449#p85449 -
• #36439
the 464 is bloody lovely, but have you drilled the front fork?
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• #36440
It's already drilled. Well if you order a drilled one.
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• #36441
The frame isn't drilled, therefore not designed for brake calipers. What makes you think the owner is going to add brakes?
I like to see bar plugs, especially on bullhorns, as it's selfish to go on the streets without them.
Saying that... -
• #36442
thats really lovely. i like this
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• #36443
as lolo says. they have the undrilled track version and the bandwagon jumping predrilled fixie (their name) version. i got the latter. that way i have the option. and as its my first proper fixed (i usually ride singlespeed), i thought it would be prudent. all the fixies ive ridden had (a) brake(s). im super stoked with it though so far. i have another post i can use but i want some layback and the thomson i have doesnt have any.
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• #36444
It's already drilled. Well if you order a drilled one.
Mine came with the drilled fork, the box label says "AL464 PISTE FREIN". There was some suggestion when the pre-production frames were being shown that the seatstay bridge was going to be drilled on production bikes, but mine isn't.
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• #36445
mine isnt either. i didnt look at the box to be honest but they clearly offer 2 versions on the fishers (importers) website. the owners book says it should have come with a long brake bolt but it didnt. which was a shame as i now have to sort one out.
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• #36446
Has anybody actually seen a production 464 with an undrilled fork? While they might market them as "Track" and "Fixie" variants, I'd be surprised if they bother to double their inventory, which will be on slow ships from Taiwan.
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• #36447
The photos on the Chari and Co website show an undrilled fork, and I don't think they're Look pics.
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• #36448
BTW I don't get the long brake bolt thing?
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• #36449
I didnt realise they came drilled. I dunno if id ride one not on the track, they just look like an absolute tarck machine.
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• #36450
I'm just waiting for KC to sell his.
Excellent choice of pedal.
Still can't believe I miss out on a bid for those and a TA triple crankset a couple night ago.
Hipster wheel look very odd and hip hop slavery with the rest of the bike.