Current Projects chat and miscellany

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  • Morning folks, over the week I've mysteriously bent the alloy forks on my cyclocross-turned-tourercommuter so am now in need of somehthing new, and preferably burley.

    Criteria are 1 in steerer and cantilever bosses. I'm looking at the surly crosscheck forks at the moment, any other suggestions? Churrs

    http://carboncycles.cc/?s=0&t=2&c=75&p=787&

  • Here's a quick and dirty overlay

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  • Here is what i've been doing with the frame i bought from tilover. It will get some Amberwall tires when the current ones is worn down.

    yay! looks great! surprisingly light isn't it?

  • Has anyone really been far even as decided to use even go want to do look more like?

    haha! i'd forgotten about that

  • Mercian now finished..... I have Multi Grooves to thank, as it started from the buying a saddle from him and realising I had nothing decent enough to put it on!

    http://www.lfgss.com/picture.php?albumid=1537&pictureid=8955


  • found this old batavus race frame in dumpster today... the frame is way to big for me, maybe gonna try to sell it (make build than sell it) ? bigger resolution: http://foundbikes.posterous.com/batavus-course-for-sale

    so I am selling it : http://link.marktplaats.nl/376982444

  • On a track chain, either a screw link or a spring clip. Either way, the pin which is at the join is secured against pulling out of the plate by something more than just friction. If you re-use a rivet you've already pushed out once, at least one end of it will be a pure cylinder, no mushroom or cross peen to secure it.

    Sorry to pull this back a couple of pages - I've always riveted my 1/8" chains back together for fixed road use because I don't trust master links for hard fixed use (skidding etc.), and I'd be a bit paranoid about a screw link working loose. Am I being stupid? Is it safer to use a master link?

  • yay! looks great! surprisingly light isn't it?

    Thanks. I actually thought it would be heavy as a tank, being an old and large frame. I'm really happy with it, almost as light as my Columbus frame.

  • I always rivet chains back together as well, life's too short to check a screw is tight every time I take it out.

  • Hello Jack
    Your frame is ready for delivery. Please call the number below and we can take your card details.
    Thank you
    Grant

    Mercian Cycles Limited
    7 Shardlow Road
    Alvaston
    Derby
    DE240JG

    Best e-mail this year.

  • current project: getting a girlfriend.

    any suggestions? offers? trade?

  • Max why don't you worry about paying the rent before getting some new forks?

  • Sorry to pull this back a couple of pages - I've always riveted my 1/8" chains back together for fixed road use because I don't trust master links for hard fixed use (skidding etc.), and I'd be a bit paranoid about a screw link working loose. Am I being stupid? Is it safer to use a master link?

    I don't use a screw link, I use the Wipperman Connex joining link which just pulls together/pushes apart. I think the potential problem with riveting it back together is that it is not actually riveted, it is just pushed back in. Unless you get your ball hammer out and actually flatten the end?

    If it has not caused any problems then it will be fine as that is what I did for 30 years but the only chain failure I had was on a link joined back by myself so probably bad workmanship rather than bad theory!

  • I have always rejoining chain and I havent have a problem ever...
    I think it is just personal preferences.

  • I don't use a screw link, I use the Wipperman Connex joining link which just pulls together/pushes apart. I think the potential problem with riveting it back together is that it is not actually riveted, it is just pushed back in.

    Yeah, that's my concern - I do check my chain regularly to see if the rivet is working loose but I've not had it happen so far. Whereas I have a friend who had one of those master links fail on his fixed gear (don't know what type it was, though).

  • Awaiting Veloflex Corsa 22s and some kind of chain, plus the steerer needs cutting and it will eventually get one of my custom preload adjusters

    The chainset looks nice on it, as will the veloflex's.
    Very nice set-up.

  • Could anybody recommend a 1" threadless carbon road fork for me?

    Will be used for courier work so strength is crucial.

    Budget is irrelevant but best value for money appreciated.

    Jorj, any ideas?

    I had a rockin' Profile one on the Fort before, don't know the model name but it was excellent, sold it though, wouldn't have been long enough anyway...

    Tifosi Carbon 1"
    Richey Carbon Comp 1"

  • Wound up FTW! Tokyofixed sell those and it'll look rockin on your cannondale maxy boy.

  • £300 pounds though ^^

  • Both! And I mean light compared to 80's Tange steel, not weight weenie light.

    Columbus minimal vintage fork (non-intergrated) £175 from http://www.ceeway.com/carbon%20forks.htm

  • Columbus minimal vintage fork (non-intergrated) £175 from http://www.ceeway.com/carbon%20forks.htm

    +1, got a good review in Cycling Plus..

  • Awaiting Veloflex Corsa 22s and some kind of chain, plus the steerer needs cutting and it will eventually get one of my custom preload adjusters

    Nice, I've wondered before, but after seeing this... what do you have against track cranks?

    I had a rockin' Profile one on the Fort before, don't know the model name but it was excellent, sold it though, wouldn't have been long enough anyway...

    Tifosi Carbon 1"
    Richey Carbon Comp 1"

    Wound up FTW! Tokyofixed sell those and it'll look rockin on your cannondale maxy boy.

    Columbus minimal vintage fork (non-intergrated) £175 from http://www.ceeway.com/carbon%20forks.htm

    Thanks guys.

    Ed, I'd love a Wound Up. One day.

  • what do you have against track cranks?

    It's not really that I don't like track cranks, I just love UltraTorque, and the Mirage and Veloce ones are very cheap, especially now that they are discontinued and shops are clearing stock. Complete chainset including BB, Goldtec ring and the machine work comes to about £120, against around £250 for Record, DuraAce or SG75. Also, have you actually ridden external bearing cranks? The massive increase in stiffness over square taper might not actually make you faster, but it certainly feels like it should. Finally, I now have UltraTorque on all 5 of the bikes which get any serious use, so I get a consistent Q-Factor right across the fleet, which is nice.

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Current Projects chat and miscellany

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