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  • Alternative lacing pattern, less spoke bending.

    true, but I do prefer the look when every three spokes is facing a different way

  • If you would care to elaborate as to how I've done it "wrong" then I might learn

    In general, for any crossed pattern spoke, whether it's normal 3x or something more exotic, the heads-in spokes should pass outside the heads-out spokes at all crossings except the outermost one. With plain spokes and very tangential patterns, whether >3x or very large flanges, it might even be best to eliminate interleaving completely, because it is a dodge which trades one weakness for another and the balance shifts as the spoke bend increases. For as much as the loaded spoke balances the tension in the unloaded one, it also flexes it at every load cycle, and the crossing doesn't stay in precisely the same place so the spokes also rub against one another and would eventually wear material off the spokes at the crossing.

    Here's an example of 3-leading/3-trailing built with no interlacing
    http://minortriad.com/wheel.html


    1 Attachment

    • wheel2.jpg
  • Hey KC, what cranks are they?

  • Same here. Now I have to sand down that horrible Soma logo, fit the mudguards and wait for Tommy to finish building the front wheel..

    She's a beaut, what frame is it?

  • Apparently Freddie Grubb by Holdsworthy

  • In general, for any crossed pattern spoke, whether it's normal 3x or something more exotic, the heads-in spokes should pass outside the heads-out spokes at all crossings except the outermost one. With plain spokes and very tangential patterns, whether >3x or very large flanges, it might even be best to eliminate interleaving completely, because it is a dodge which trades one weakness for another and the balance shifts as the spoke bend increases. For as much as the loaded spoke balances the tension in the unloaded one, it also flexes it at every load cycle, and the crossing doesn't stay in precisely the same place so the spokes also rub against one another and would eventually wear material off the spokes at the crossing.

    Now that^^^ is a response, thank you. I didn't know that about the general rule of thumb. I'll take it on board. I didn't have that problem, well not so far as I noticed anyway, when I did the same interlaced pattern on a 100mm flange hub. Obviously, from what you're saying, the interlacing doesn't bear any mechanical advantage in this instance, but I like the aesthetics so I will leave it as is for now (the wheel it's replacing has exactly the same interlaced pattern as the picture you posted. If I notice anything untoward I will rethink. I mean, there are worse crimes surely, like snowflaked spokes, and people ride with those on the rear.

  • [php][/php]the fixie really light flanders frame now m[php][/php]y regular ride and the drunken ebay purchase the cougarhttp://www.lfgss.com/picture.php?albumid=1152&pictureid=7180http://www.lfgss.com/picture.php?albumid=1152&pictureid=7181[php][/php]My pride and joy the viner columbus genius with nos 8speed campy almost finishedhttp://www.lfgss.com/picture.php?albumid=1152&pictureid=7186

  • Gazelle conversion is getting on. Just looking for a Campag fluted or aero seatpost in 27.0 and some record/sr quill pedals to finish off and put together. Yes long stem is long but I've always found that I like a longer reach.

    Sorry for rubbish pictures. Phone is the only camera available to me.

    http://i40.photobucket.com/albums/e204/spider_pie/gaz210.jpg

  • I didn't have that problem, well not so far as I noticed anyway

    What everybody has to bear in mind is that spoke pattern and number was developed a very long time ago, when the spoke metallurgy was genuinely problematic. People used to run, as the default road set up, 32f/40r because you really did need 40 of the old spokes in the back wheel to get through a season with a low chance of breaking a spoke. You certainly don't need that many spokes to make an adequately stiff wheel even with butted spokes, as my 16f/20r RS80s demonstrate, and with modern metallurgy you don't need them for reliability either. As a result of this great but largely unremarked advance in bicycle technology, even totally moronic builds like radial rears will last long past the average cyclist's attention span if built with 36 plain guage modern spokes.

    In short, your badly interlaced wheels will probably last much longer than you need them to, making them doubly annoying to engineers, because things should be right, and wrong things should fail to prove the point.

  • Hey KC, what cranks are they?

    Just some old Super Custom with a blackspire track ring.

  • My new current project, sort of.

    So, as much as I love mi Olmo, I would really like to have a track Lo-pro that ticks all the geometry boxes and is lovely to look at to boot. I can't find any anywhere at all. So I've resorted to having one built. I'm surprisingly excited about it. Full custom Geometry (designed by moi - woot). 29.5cm BB, no toe overlap with 175 cranks, short, fucking tight. lovely.

    Even better I think I'll have it built from full Columbus Spirit Keirin, fillet brazed (although I'm still tempted by handcut lugs), Zeus Fork Crown and NOS Zeus dropouts. Oh and tripple triangle - toss up between that and wishbone, opted for the former in the end. Torn between Pink Antacid (sp?) and metallic silver. Chrome stays and fork probably.

    Should have it within 3 months, I hope.

    Win.

  • Oh, shut up, Henry!

    You will be a lucky lucky bastard soon. Tripple triangle? Any curves too or straight lines?

  • Hi Snoops not an FXE not sure what model its a true track frame rather than the FXE which can be used with two brakes this has no rear drilling and no bottle mounts.

    Dolan FXE is a Precursa with cable stays, bottle mounts and rear drilled brake. FXE are blue, Precursa are black.

  • can't get the curves in Spirit Keirin.
    :(

  • One of the nicest bikes I have seen on here for a while. Fucking A* Reeen

  • Sounds great Harry, are you going for 650 front and back....?

  • I'm really tempted. But as I am splashing out I think I'll have grown up rear and baby front.

  • if you want curvy tubes i think you should get them fwiw

    can't get the curves in Spirit Keirin.
    :(

  • After you guys kindly pointed me in the direction of the correct thread and also gave me some feedback on the setup, I've now been for a ride and refined it a little:

    I've changed the stem and moved the seat forward. I've also adjusted the angle and position of the brake levers. I had it set too long for me. It's definitely an improvement, although I'm sure there's more I could do. I realise the frame is a little small for me, but if I can get a comfortable set up then I'll try it for a bit.

    Once again thanks for the feedback.

  • Dolan FXE is a Precursa with cable stays, bottle mounts and rear drilled brake. FXE are blue, Precursa are black.

    Mine is not a precursa i am quite sure does not have the track end inserts or the holes for them or the mud guard holes

  • I'm really tempted. But as I am splashing out I think I'll have grown up rear and baby front.

    How did the 650 front & rear experiment work out in the end?

  • if you want curvy tubes i think you should get them fwiw

    I want the tubing more than the curves.

    How did the 650 front & rear experiment work out in the end?

    Yet to try it :(

  • Nice bike, kerley.

    My new current project, sort of.

    Sounds hot, Harry. Can't wait to see it.

  • My new current project, sort of.

    So, as much as I love mi Olmo, I would really like to have a track Lo-pro that ticks all the geometry boxes and is lovely to look at to boot. I can't find any anywhere at all. So I've resorted to having one built. I'm surprisingly excited about it. Full custom Geometry (designed by moi - woot). 29.5cm BB, no toe overlap with 175 cranks, short, fucking tight. lovely.

    Even better I think I'll have it built from full Columbus Spirit Keirin, fillet brazed (although I'm still tempted by handcut lugs), Zeus Fork Crown and NOS Zeus dropouts. Oh and tripple triangle - toss up between that and wishbone, opted for the former in the end. Torn between Pink Antacid (sp?) and metallic silver. Chrome stays and fork probably.

    Should have it within 3 months, I hope.

    Win.

    hah! well whatdidya know, I joke about you designing me a low-pro frame in the Plug titanium topic, and now you're thinking of doing it yourself! the description sound awesome though.

    as for the choice between lug and fillet brazed, have you though about having both? here's a good example;

    my frame have a similar combination too, I can always bring it to BLB for you to have a look.

  • Now that^^^ is a response, thank you. I didn't know that about the general rule of thumb. I'll take it on board. I didn't have that problem, well not so far as I noticed anyway, when I did the same interlaced pattern on a 100mm flange hub.

    IMHO it is diffiult to predict finer details like heads-in vs heads-out etc. before you start lacing and/or tensioning. Its partly down to feeling. If the spokes laced without too much complaint, and tensioned evenly. Then the wheel is likely to be a robust one (assuming decent pattern and spoke count).

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Current Projects chat and miscellany

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