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I have a similar predicament with a 7 speed hub now.
Don't want to lose the big cog, which is also on a body with the rest.
The smallest cog is seperate, but the second smallest doesn't have the knurls.
Will I do a die if I don't use the smallest cog because of the lack of aforementioned knurls?
Xthanksbai

Awesome!

Appreciated, I'm normally rigorous over spelling and grammar but didn't check that!

Excellent! Thank you.

Will I do a die

Think about the amount of extra work it is for the manufacturer to put those serrations on the lock ring and top sprocket. Would they do that for no reason?

Don't want to lose the big cog, which is also on a body with the rest.
The smallest cog is seperate, but the second smallest doesn't have the knurls.
Will I do a die if I don't use the smallest cog because of the lack of aforementioned knurls?

Shimano cassettes with an 11 or 12 tooth bottom cog: when you take the smallest cog out, there's a slot in the second-smallest that it locates into. The lock ring won't tighten up against that. If you make up a wire ring to go in the slot, the lock ring will make sufficient contact and you'll be able to tighten it. I seem to remember the slot was 2mm and 1.6mm wire was sufficient. Preferably square section, which I happened to have in my stash. You're doing it up to something like 50Nm, it won't come undone.

SRAM cassettes: can't remember exactly how they fit together at the small end.

Track cogs and lockrings aren't knurled :)

Edit: I already realised your answer as soon as I hit post on that. They tighten against each other etc

The relevant comparator would be "UG top sprockets aren't serrated" 🙂

Should you find yourself in possession of a HG/UG 6/7-speed hub, a 3/32" track sprocket, a desire to run 7of8,8of9 or 9of10 and a surface grinder, the solution should be pretty obvious

It f*cking SRAM and there's no slot as far as I can remember.
Anyway, I think tester already brought down the verdict hammer..

As per previous comment.

Okokokokok. Bad idea then.

I'll just go ahead and change the hub as I had planned to do and got a modern deore hub for.

Thanks for the replies internet strangers

Although this now tickles my fancy as an idea.
Theoretically, changing the second last cog with the same size threaded sprocket and theoretically correct spacing, one just threads the cog on one of those ug/hg freewheels with double chainwhips?
The freewheel body has threads, of that I am sure.

The hub change is probably less work with more reward though.

one just thightens the cog on one of those ug/hg freewheels?

Yeah, the smallest sprocket is also the lock ring. Just need to grind the track sprocket to the right thickness to get the sprocket spacing right.

I've succesfully swapped in a 9 speed freehub onto a 7 speed hub.

Works fine AFAIK.

Depends on the make and model, but in principle if the interfaces are compatible, going from 126mm/7-speed to 130mm/8-speed is just doing what Shimano (e.g. FH-7400>FH-7403) did at the time, and 8-speed is the same freehub width as 9 and 10. You need to swap the axle and QR too, and re-dish the wheel, at which point you might as well just buy a new hub and rebuild the wheel 😀

Think I lucked out, oddly satisfying when it came out brilliant.

Did it with a FH M475, swapped the axle and just a slight dishing required.

Just for beers too for a fellow forumer!

One of these. It has splines which fit both HG and UG, and it has threadings for both HG lock rings and a UG lock cog. The only issue is the smallest UG lock cog is 13T.

If you change your mind and decide to go that route, give me a shout.

Edit: though if your hub has that splined fitting, it's waaaay easier to just buy an 8-speed HG hub and swap the freehub over like coventry_eagle did. If you're lucky* enough to be running an old Exage road hub, there are even enough spacers on the nds that you can reduce it back down to 126mm or thereabouts.

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IIRC it was an Exage hub too! What a coincidence!

Edit: Conformation bias, it was a LX https://www.lfgss.com/comments/16816479/

Judging from search history it's a m452 hub.
Don't know if there are freehubs available. Judging from the amount of spacers on the axle it has already been spaced to 135mm from maybe even 126mm.
Anybody know if the readily available and cheap 500 series freehubs would fit on this hub?

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Yes it's that kind of freehub type with internal and external threads for ug and hg. It came with a hg 7speed cassette.
Can't measure the freehub but I reckon the one you're holding is the 7-speed type?

Looks awfully similar...

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Yeah they look like they’re all interchangeable. Just double check they take loose balls and not cartridge bearings, but it looks like they do.

they look like they’re all interchangeable.

There are slight differences in the seal arrangements, cone thickness, spacers etc., but the main interfaces are compatible for dozens of Shimano hubs using that male spline on the hub shell and 9×1/4" balls. You might have to delve into your parts bin to build exactly the OLN and dish you want when mixing and matching

Picked up this last night. And fitted a quill stem today.

Bike feels massive, but I get thats sort of the point.

Bars are an ergonomic disaster at the moment. I might switch to moustache bars, or I might pass it on to the next person if I can't get on with the Ronnie romance fit.

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Now I've sold my disc frames I'm looking for a rim brake steel frame with space for 35mm+ tyres and guards which pretty much means a tourer. Anyone have any insight into which, if any, of these three might ride most like a road bike? My gut says Bob or Dean...

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