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It's like all suspicion disappears from people's faces. I don't know if it's the fact that you're not hidden behind a camera so expression is plain to see, but like magic, people trust the person with the funny looking box. Flipping sorcery.
The 'not hiding' thing is definitely a big part of it, but the delicate, friendly design of the camera is another. The grey Rolleis (the 3.5T and the baby 4x4) are even more charming than the black-leather-covered Fs.
I think you'd reach a similar conclusion from carrying a Leica M3 versus a Nikon SLR.
So many cameras (old and new) are designed with an almost military aggression that may actually be accidental - after all, most cameras were originally coloured all-black to minimise reflection.
The hard angles of some SLRs make for a slightly menacing object, and big lenses don't help either. -
Obviously I picked some of the best looking photos, but yeah, to be honest, I was really surprised with the flash quality, I think it's one of the few flashes (at least in P&S) that you can actually use without ruining the picture (I bought a minolta p&s dirt cheap, the flash just makes everyone's skin look like your staring at sunlight!)
Here are all the photos with the T3 I've ever posted on my tumblr to have a more representative sample:
http://deathtobroccoli.tumblr.com/tagged/yashica+t3 -
Bought T4 & T3 Super, and a (maybe broken) Nikon L35 cheaply.
Well the T4 wasn't that cheap, but the other two went for peanutsHahaha! Your review might actually let me decide whether to keep the MJU or not.
The 'not hiding' thing is definitely a big part of it, but the delicate, friendly design of the camera is another. The grey Rolleis (the 3.5T and the baby 4x4) are even more charming than the black-leather-covered Fs.
Funny thing that. It suddenly becomes pretty clear why a lot of the portraiture masters opted out of using SLR's.
The Nikon part is incredibly true. I've found more hostility (both in others and myself) when I'm shooting with that than when using an old compact, that even includes violating people's personal space.Crap. I really want a 3.5T now.
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Here are all the photos with the T3 I've ever posted on my tumblr to have a more representative sample:
http://deathtobroccoli.tumblr.com/tagged/yashica+t3Thanks again.
What film do you use? Do you scan yourself?
I can't see any tags on your tumblr.
Oh, and I guess what you're trying to say is "no photo editing" / "unedited", not "no photo edition"? -
Thanks again.
What film do you use? Do you scan yourself?
I can't see any tags on your tumblr.
Oh, and I guess what you're trying to say is "no photo editing" / "unedited", not "no photo edition"?No worries :) Most of those I've taken whilst at uni (in England, I am originally from Portugal and when I'm there I scan them in my mate's epson v500), so they've been developed and scanned by Max Spielmann (the corner photography shop, not sure wether it's present throughout the whole UK or if it only has a few shops)
90% of the photos from the T3 were taken with agfa vista plus 200 ISO (I get it for 1£ in Poundland and so far I think they've shown pretty sweet results for non-professional film)The page I posted previously is all tagged with T3, my theme doesn't let you see the tags, which is a bit shit (can't be bothered changing it though, it's so hard to find a good one with big pictures that ticks all the boxes), but if you go on http://deathtobroccoli.tumblr.com/archive and hover over the pictures with your mouse it'll show you the first like 3 or 4 tags for each photo. Not sure if that's helpful, though.
Regarding the 'photo edition', thank you for the correction, it is very appreciated, I'm guessing that the language barrier is making look like an idiot to everyone who goes on my tumblr, haha. Can you please explain me the difference?
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Well, "edition" is english for edicao, "editing" is from "to edit (photos)" .
hahaha cheers. You see, that's the problem, in portuguese, 'edição' is both 'to edit' and 'edition', but I've googled it and understand it now, edition is like a 'magazine edition' (something published and stuff like that, usually an item, from what I gather) whilst editing is actually changing things (not the best way to explain it, but yeah...)
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Crap. I really want a 3.5T now.
I had the choice between the grey 3.5T and a black 3.5F when I bought mine years ago.
The F won on:- Lens quality. The Tessar used in the T is very, very good, but the Planar on the F beats it for edge-to-edge sharpness.
- Useability. The twin thumbwheels (for aperture & shutter speed) between the lenses on an F are an absolute joy to use, rather less fiddly than the controls on the T.
- Build quality. The T definitely was a lower-priced camera, you'll notice the moment you have an F and a T in front of you.
You could always attempt re-leathering an F in grey. That would be ace.
- Lens quality. The Tessar used in the T is very, very good, but the Planar on the F beats it for edge-to-edge sharpness.
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Little story that just came to mind when looking at a picture of yours from Lisbon -
I once went there, like with a really last minute flight, spontaneously.
Did not have time to get my Canon AE-1, but had just bought a nice wide angle prime for it.
I went to like twenty stores in three days to buy just any old Canon body with an FD-bayonet so I could use that lens.
Did not fnd one."We don't sell this kind of equipment anymore, because we can't make money with this kind of equipment anymore".
Upside was I got around the city really a lot!
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@Tina Kino
Yeah, you really need to know the shops, there are about 2 (arguably just one, if you want good prices) viable shops that will sell film cameras, but if you know your stuff your sorted since that 1 shop has hundreds of cameras, you can haggle with the guy and he sell's 35mm film like B&W Tmaxs and APXs for 3 euros (if you kind of haggle it. Last time I just said 'oh I'm alright, that's a bit expensive for my budget atm' and he dropped the price right away haha)!!! -
- Lens quality. The Tessar used in the T is very, very good, but the Planar on the F beats it for edge-to-edge sharpness.
- Useability. The twin thumbwheels (for aperture & shutter speed) between the lenses on an F are an absolute joy to use, rather less fiddly than the controls on the T.
- Build quality. The T definitely was a lower-priced camera, you'll notice the moment you have an F and a T in front of you.
You could always attempt re-leathering an F in grey. That would be ace.
No, those are the perfect points I needed to hear regarding differences. It's really all about usability for me.
Lens quality, while high on the list, is not a deal breaker as absolute sharpness is a luxury I can live without.
Ergonomics however, are really what sells a camera for me. If I can't change settings without looking, then it's too much hassle to use.Since It might be an online purchase, what should I be looking for/asking?
- Lens quality. The Tessar used in the T is very, very good, but the Planar on the F beats it for edge-to-edge sharpness.
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Apart from the usual checks (light leaks, lens fungus, lens scratches, etc), you may want to know
- if it's been used recently. The shutter can stick through lack of exercise. The normal remedy is to get the camera (no film), cock and release the shutter throughout every shutter speed at least ten times each. If after 100 or so exposures the shutter still seems sluggish (most apparent in the slow speeds), it needs a service.
- if it's ever been dropped. That's how I killed mine, some of them survive but mine didn't. The focusing should be smooth and not bind at either extremity. The lenses are mounted parallel on the face of the camera, and if there are any dents at all in this faceplate, they're likely no longer parallel. Net result is a useless Rolleiflex that doesn't focus accurately.
Aside from the above, desirable 'extras' (which, if you're lucky are being sold with the camera) include the proper double lens cap, the original 'scissor' strap, and a Beattie Intenscreen. Any genuine filters and lens hoods are a bonus.
I wouldn't bother about whether it has a built-in meter. A Sekonic L-308s or similar is far more useful.
- if it's been used recently. The shutter can stick through lack of exercise. The normal remedy is to get the camera (no film), cock and release the shutter throughout every shutter speed at least ten times each. If after 100 or so exposures the shutter still seems sluggish (most apparent in the slow speeds), it needs a service.
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One more question (just say if it is silly) - for a rolleiflex 3.5f, is £450 reasonable? Any idea of a decent price for one?
thanksI have no idea about prices nowadays. Over a decade since I bought mine, it cost me £500 and a good 2.8F could be had for ~£750 at the time.
If you're in the UK, call Aperture Photographic and ask them if they have any. If they don't ask what you should expect to pay for a nice 3.5F. -
Does anybody have a PDF of (or a working link to) a T4 user manual?
Trying to find out things like from which light values on it decides that it needs flash etc.Thanks!
Try
http://www.butkus.org/chinon/yashica/yashica_t4_super/yashica_t4_super.htm
link towards the bottom of the page - possibly off screen.
I have this saved as a favourite...
http://www.butkus.org/chinon/index.html -
Argh... my GR1s has died... fires up but wont take any pics... LCD aint great either... anyone know somewhere (East ideally) to get it fixed?
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Argh... my GR1s has died... fires up but wont take any pics... LCD aint great either... anyone know somewhere (East ideally) to get it fixed?
Dang! Another one catches the shutter bug of death. Recently had the same thing.
It'll cost you, but if you're willing to spend money, you'll essentially have a new camera really, since they're mostly shutter anyway.I went to all these guys. They all offered pretty specific numbers, with Sendean actually taking it in for a free estimate. I liked them.
harrow technical - 0208 9384660
ashai photo - 0208 2328111
Sendean Cameras - 020 7242 7733Saying all this, since it's a GR1s, you have another, cheaper option and that is to send it to Japan through this guy to have it repaired.
Japan Camera Hunter
He was specific, communicative and easy to deal with. I didn't want to repair mine simply because Ricoh stopped repairing the GR1, and UK based places were far more expensive to repair then the S/V models. I miss it something fierce.He gave me a quote of around £120, whilst the UK based stuff started at an estimated £180+.
Good luck. -
FUUUUUUUU might as well just buy a bloody new one! FFS!
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Analog film photography and cameras
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@GA2G
Bought T4 & T3 Super, and a (maybe broken) Nikon L35 cheaply.
Well the T4 wasn't that cheap, but the other two went for peanuts.
Thanks for your input, and thanks for sharing unedited pictures as well.
Surprised how good the in-camera flash looks.
T4 seems more fragile than Mju-ll, but alright.. I'm not throwing my cameras in backpacks like that.
Yea I overlooked that only T4 Super / T5 has the waist level finder. Annoying, but if the T3 Super is on par with the picture quality (and AF), I'm sell selling the T4 again (and if the Nikon is on par I'm selling both Yashicas, as the L35 has at least some degree of tweaking exposure).