Analog film photography and cameras

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  • Indra those are really nice shots! (1,3,6&7) are awsome! hopefully you dont break cameras as much as you break bikes!

  • AF Nikkor 28-70 / 3.5-4.5
    Fuji Pro 400H (second roll, not that much impressed)
    and some new speedlight (bounced) I got off eBay, which made me laugh when I opened the parcel,
    as the thing was about twice as big as I expected.

    Did some digital stuff yesterday, and brought along the Mju-ll just for shits & giggles,
    also because there's a film in it since weeks I want to see the first pictures of, so want to get it developed soon.
    That "spot" mode is for AF *and *AE lock, right?
    Kept carrying the thing in the outside pocket of my jacket, in like +1°C weather for 2-3 hours,
    noticed the lens kept taking longer to adjust itself after slide-opening the camera, then it didn't want to retract any more.
    Also flash button stopped working.
    Battery is fresh (3 rolls, with little flash use), so I'm disappoint.
    I guess my question is can't Mju-lls stand temperatures like this, or is my camera ill?

  • Oh and Indra I like the colours of the airport one and the door one very much.
    Gotta use cheap film to its advantages more in future.

    The other day I saw a portfolio of some danish girl I think, it was ace,
    the colours were really really great throughout, and it was all Kodak Gold FFS.

  • Also, some great snaps there indra.

    Oh and Indra I like the colours of the airport one and the door one very much.
    Gotta use cheap film to its advantages more in future.

    The other day I saw a portfolio of some danish girl I think, it was ace,
    the colours were really really great throughout, and it was all Kodak Gold FFS.

    Than very much people :)

    I love using superia, I'm yet to get my kodak gold developed but I am sort of interesting in seeing how it compares. I've also bought a roll of ektar 100 and portra 400 to put through to the ricoh when it's fixed, can't wait to see those.

  • I wish they would do kind of an 'NC' version of Ektar, that would not render sunny skin so unhealthy,
    but besides that I love that film.

  • I like this one.

  • I wish they would do kind of an 'NC' version of Ektar, that would not render sunny skin so unhealthy,
    but besides that I love that film.

    I'll keep that in mind when shooting, I need to decide what films I'm bringing to the alps in the new year, and to buy an mju 2!

    I like this one.

    Thanks, it's one of my favourites from the airport. I really love all the lines.

    In other unfortunate news I got this email this morning.

    *"Good Morning,

    We regret we are unable to repair the Ricoh GR-1 35mm camera any longer as parts are no longer available.

    Best Regards

    Johnsons Photopia
    Service Administration
    Hempstalls Lane
    Newcastle under Lyme
    Staffordshire
    ST5 0SW
    Tel: 01782 753350"*

  • What exactly is wrong with the Ricoh?

  • The shutter just doesn't open, makes a noise though so the motor must be working to some extent, sounds almost like there's a gear not engaging but I don't know how cameras work so unsure if it could be as simple as that.

    Everything else seems to work fine, film winds, numbers display correctly on the lcd.

  • Open it if you don't think you have much to lose. There's a good place in Near Holborn. Camera City if you want to take it in though, they repaired a Yashica I had back a while ago. Good peoples.
    I imagine your Ricoh is way way more advanced though and might be an electronic fault, so would come down to price of repair.

  • Does it make a clicking noise?
    Ricoh would've repaired shutter problems by replacing the whole shutter unit and lens but they don't do the GR1 any more.

  • Open it if you don't think you have much to lose. There's a good place in Near Holborn. Camera City if you want to take it in though, they repaired a Yashica I had back a while ago. Good peoples.
    I imagine your Ricoh is way way more advanced though and might be an electronic fault, so would come down to price of repair.

    I opened it up last night but only really took the bottom of it off, not really sure how to get the rest apart but may give it a try.

    Does it make a clicking noise?
    Ricoh would've repaired shutter problems by replacing the whole shutter unit and lens but they don't do the GR1 any more.

    Yup, exactly this. I'll get a video of it as soon as I get home.

  • Support your local proper developing™

    ...just returning from the 'pro' lab. They do C41 / E6 and b/w in like two hours, and it's all good.
    Sometimes the negatives are pretty flat, sometimes rather bent (like this).
    I heard somebody else complainig about this the other day, it was a bad case, with b/w film.
    Reminded me of some ADOX negatives I got back from another lab, pretty twisted, they said the material is so thin they can't do anything about it.

    So today I picked up a developed Fui C200, and it was really bent, like in the example above.
    Asked about it myself, because I have to scan them today and it's a PITA -
    and the cute girl said there's nothing they could do - I should "remind myself that they are coming from a rolled up state".

    FFS

  • In other news: there's light leaks on almost everey frame from the Mju-ll I have not figured out yet.

  • Stick them in a book, the lab can't do much about that

  • Sure I flatten them with books / weights of some sort. It sucks when you're in a hurry though.

    Just baffled me that sometimes they're flat, sometimes they are not.
    This, and that they are indeed coming from a "rolled-up state" - but across, not lengthwise!

  • To be fair I think heating them a lot makes it worse but I had some adox film once that had warnings that it would happen badly

  • Sure I flatten them with books / weights of some sort. It sucks when you're in a hurry though.

    Just baffled me that sometimes they're flat, sometimes they are not.
    This, and that they are indeed coming from a "rolled-up state" - but across, not lengthwise!

    Depends on film and what you do with it. All forms of variables. Faster film warps more, fresh chemicals do that too. If the heaters are off by a few degrees that happens. Pushing it during development does that as well. Luck of the draw really.
    The whole across warp generally happens when you cut them up soon after cooling down.
    What I notived is you're better off flattening them when they're bunched up in in stretches of 6 or more as opposed to individually.

  • This is an example of the Mju-ll's light leak...
    ...anyone experienced this like that?

  • Thanks for the input Chak!

  • Open it if you don't think you have much to lose.

    This was going so well until as I removed the top part of the body, my little finger hit the top of the capacitor (?) and gave me a pretty heavy shock, I then dropped the whole thing onto the tray and screw+cogs went bouncing everywhere, luckily I've found them all. only damage is a tiny crack by one of the screws.

    ...just returning from the 'pro' lab. They do C41 / E6 and b/w in like two hours, and it's all good.
    Sometimes the negatives are pretty flat, sometimes rather bent (like this).
    I heard somebody else complainig about this the other day, it was a bad case, with b/w film.
    Reminded me of some ADOX negatives I got back from another lab, pretty twisted, they said the material is so thin they can't do anything about it.

    So today I picked up a developed Fui C200, and it was really bent, like in the example above.
    Asked about it myself, because I have to scan them today and it's a PITA -
    and the cute girl said there's nothing they could do - I should "remind myself that they are coming from a rolled up state".

    FFS

    Really sorry to hear this, I ended up getting a couple of rolls done at jessops and a couple at snappy snaps just because I saw them while on lunch break, was very happy with the results and the negatives were completely flat and clean :)

  • Haha, the irony...

    : D

  • Yup, exactly this. I'll get a video of it as soon as I get home.

    This is apparently the way they usually die and need repairing but I don't know what actually causes it, it might well be a problem with the electrics tho. I guess the best way to fix it would be to find one broken a different way and replace the shutter unit and lens (or get the parts and give it to a shop to do)...

    This is an example of the Mju-ll's light leak...
    ...anyone experienced this like that?

    Have you got the window on the back covered with tape or something?

  • This was going so well until as I removed the top part of the body, my little finger hit the top of the capacitor (?) and gave me a pretty heavy shock, I then dropped the whole thing onto the tray and screw+cogs went bouncing everywhere, luckily I've found them all. only damage is a tiny crack by one of the screws.

    no....NO!! we are NOT extending you've been indra'd here ya hear! This is a safe zone!
    Also, used to solder a couple of cables to a disposable camera circuits and walk around tasering everyone..ahh good times..Anyway! There's gotta be a circuit board diagram somewhere online. Get it back together. Make a project of it. Shinkuu's idea is brilliant. If I remember right, that camera shop near Mornington Crescent had quite a few GR-1's in the window.

  • Haha I'm not giving up on it, I'll have a look for another broken one about but for the time being I think I'm going to try and buy another working one and let this drag out a little, worst case scenario I just have a a camera full of useable parts if the next goes wrong.

    Edit: Do you know the name of the shop, might visit or give them a call tomorrow.

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Analog film photography and cameras

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