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• #3577
You'll be probably not too bad finding a scanner in london. Up where I live its ebay or nothing, and even 10year+ 35mm scanners that arent' upto much (2000px with moderate colour), good enough for showing on flickr and maybe 7x5" prints max, will set you back about £80-125.
Stuff that scans film well will (and do 120) will set you back £500+
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• #3578
Bit if help needs here guys!
Anybody has a film scanner for sale or can recommend me a good but cheapish one?
CheersI have an Epson 4870 which scans all formats and I've made excellent A3 images from 35mm negs with it. The latest version is available new or look for a s/h one on the bay.
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• #3579
I've just found an Olympus Trip 35 which I think used to belong to my grandad. From the little I've read, it sounds like a decent little camera. Anyone have one/have any tips on getting the most from it?
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• #3580
Epson 4490 and V500 are good options. Reasonably cheap as well.
Trip 35
Used to have one of these, great camera. Just shoot it really, focusing is really simple, metering works well.
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• #3581
Trip35 - the light seals are likely to have perished so replace them before you start shooting! I got one last year and didn't check -> loads of light leaks on the first few rolls. I like the camera a lot though, have fun!
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• #3582
dismantling Kodak Brownie 127, the faceplate is held on by two pins, can I just tap them out from the inside out? will it be reassemble-able? the lens is very mucky, can't access it from the inside as the aperture is part of the main body, just trying to work out if it's removeable at all...
anyone tried this/know? I have tried googling, got the manual for the 2nd version but it's a bit different.
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• #3583
Heres a few from my recently lost Mju-II, looking for a replacement point and shoot dad cam / party cam.
Those are great, man. Waiting for the first rolls through my MJU-II to come back...
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• #3584
HF, you can't really do any damage to cheap box cameras, they are generally just pinned/ stamped/ press fit together. When you reassemble just take your time plugging light leaks with felt/ glue. I've only ever come across one (an ensign 620/120) that had a lens that was designed to come apart.
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• #3585
I couldn't get enough space to hammer a punch from the inside so I just poked the inside of the lens with a cotton bud (!) and blew out the fluff with some compressed air. it's not great but it's a lot clearer than it was. this is fun :)
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• #3586
Trip35 - the light seals are likely to have perished so replace them before you start shooting! I got one last year and didn't check -> loads of light leaks on the first few rolls. I like the camera a lot though, have fun!
Is that the little strip of foam along the right side of the camera? That's about all I can see that looks like a seal. Nothing else I can see.
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• #3587
Lack of contrast from this uncoated Zeiss is killing me, everythings a big grey mulch. Got myself a hood and filters for 99p! doesn't seem to have made much difference.
Anything I can do?
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• #3588
Lack of contrast from this uncoated Zeiss is killing me, everythings a big grey mulch. Got myself a hood and filters for 99p! doesn't seem to have made much difference.
Anything I can do?
If b&w cant you just under expose and push the dev a bit?
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• #3589
Is that the little strip of foam along the right side of the camera? That's about all I can see that looks like a seal. Nothing else I can see.
yup. you can add a little bit in the top and bottom channels at that end too but I don't think it's really necessary. old seals disintegrate into sticky crumbs which is a pain when they end up on the film...
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• #3590
Lack of contrast from this uncoated Zeiss is killing me, everythings a big grey mulch. Got myself a hood and filters for 99p! doesn't seem to have made much difference.
Anything I can do?
get a yellow corrective. Filter quality is everything though!, a cheap one will do fuck all, some yellows are more yellows than others, if you get my drift.
also in dev, try slowing it down, instead of 1:25, slip to 1:50, or even 1:100. with some dev's that helps gain a bit of contrast, others it does the opposite, so do some research on what you use.
Temp too, yeah you can dev faster / slower at higher /lower temps, but they affect contrast/ grain and all sorts too. 20c is just a safe bet, not always the best!
Stand development I've found works quite well. I stand dev'd my last roll from a 50s uncoated 69 folder and it made a noticeable difference over the normal agitate agenda. But you've got to be pretty confident, as it can go tits up pretty easy! -
• #3591
get a yellow corrective. Filter quality is everything though!, a cheap one will do fuck all, some yellows are more yellows than others, if you get my drift.
also in dev, try slowing it down, instead of 1:25, slip to 1:50, or even 1:100. with some dev's that helps gain a bit of contrast, others it does the opposite, so do some research on what you use.
Temp too, yeah you can dev faster / slower at higher /lower temps, but they affect contrast/ grain and all sorts too. 20c is just a safe bet, not always the best!
Stand development I've found works quite well. I stand dev'd my last roll from a 50s uncoated 69 folder and it made a noticeable difference over the normal agitate agenda. But you've got to be pretty confident, as it can go tits up pretty easy!filters might help. and low iso film. and a little bit of sunshine.
generally, it's love it or leave it piece of glass. hope you'll love it. -
• #3592
Got some cameras for sale since they aren't getting used frequently enough.
Zenza Bronica ETRS medium format camera, with waist level finder, an AEII prism, Zenza Bronica 150mm lens, speed grip, 120 film back, Sekonda light meter, dark slide, strap, new battery and a couple rolls of Kodak Porta 160 NC.
Good nick bar a superficial knock to the lens (body not glass – see photo) and also the speed grip lacks a couple small screws which hold the film winder interface to the grip, however the winder still works with out them, it's kind of hard to explain!
£150
Pentax K1000, worked beautifully, but a knock killed the light meter, so not much use since. The lens has been removed for another camera, and stored with a body cap, so a bit dusty internally unfortunately.
£10
Minolta HiMatic 7S
Rokkor 45mm F1.8 fixed lens rangefinder, with a tired leather ever ready case and strap. May need a new battery, in fantastic condition.£50
Collection in Hackney, PM with any questions. More pictures here:
http://imageshack.us/g/804/1060496.jpg/ -
• #3593
that Minolta looks lovely
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• #3594
Dibs bronica outfit
Wanted/ needed one for ages.
Also fancy a go at the K1000 :)
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• #3595
Thank fuck someone else dibs'd the Bronica. Want a medium format so badly but the bank account says no no no.
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• #3596
Gah, why isn't the lens on that Minolta removeable?
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• #3597
Because it's a rangefinder?
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• #3598
Aye the Minolta is lovely, with dials on the lens for aperature and speed, with the ability to chose either (or both at the same time as) auto, so you can set it up with aperature priority, shutter priority or automatic. Might be talking my self out of selling this one!
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• #3599
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• #3600
I have a similar style Yashica, I love it to bits. That degree of control makes it a very attractive camera!
Bit if help needs here guys!
Anybody has a film scanner for sale or can recommend me a good but cheapish one?
Cheers