Analog film photography and cameras

Keep it for your kids! I never use my old SLR anymore

Thisischrus i will have a look about. somewhere ive got a bunch of m42 stuff

Thisischrus i will have a look about. somewhere ive got a bunch of m42 stuff

that's great, thanks.

Claire de Rouen. Like many I first met her when she worked at The Photographers Gallery in London. She ran the best photography bookshop I have ever come across and is always worth a visit. Happily the shop will continue.

Claire de Rouen obituary (The Guardian).

Claire de Rouen Books.

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Probably very straight forward, but I've never used flash before with film.

How do you compensate for exposure?

A friend is getting married and there'll no doubt be some photographs that are dark and indoors which I'd like to take using Provia on my rangefinder, an M6.

Is it compatible with flash, any recommendations, or alternatives, and how do you expose for it, given that the viewfinder only shows two red arrows which need to be synched rather than a scale.

Anyone have a decent film scanner going?

Needs to be able to do 120 (6x6 minimum) and 35.
Upto #100 mark really.

I'm slowly drowning in 120! Shot so much there is a 2ft pile of it here now and as most of its colour neg, can't do much with it, grrrrr.
Nikon/Canon/Minolta/Epson scanner would be great, but not a flatbed they are a bloody nightmare IME

http://www.theprintspace.co.uk/

wow 120 non-flatbed... want.

does your film dev place not scan 120?

oh I found a couple more exposed films in a bag yesterday... might check out that place off Brick Lane recommended upthread. I am getting quite excite about impending photo delivery though :)

(still, no rush)

^^ wrong thread?
or is it for the scanner booking on http://www.theprintspace.co.uk/professional-photo-lab.php

yes, it's for the scanner booking, they also do half an hour, the scanner is very fast and top quality, but you do it by yourself.

fair enough, took a bit of hunting from the homepage to get to the "non-digital" bit...

I hope you didn't sweat too much:)

ok I wasn't exactly hunting :)

Probably very straight forward, but I've never used flash before with film.

How do you compensate for exposure?

A friend is getting married and there'll no doubt be some photographs that are dark and indoors which I'd like to take using Provia on my rangefinder, an M6.

Is it compatible with flash, any recommendations, or alternatives, and how do you expose for it, given that the viewfinder only shows two red arrows which need to be synched rather than a scale.

You sure you want to shoot a wedding on slide/transparency film? That sure is brave. I did it, once, to prove a point to myself, but really.... it's not advisable. I'd recommend negative film, like the 160 emulsions from Kodak or Fuji. I have hardly used 35mm in the last 2 decades so my experience is with 120.

Still, if the flash has manual settings marked for distance, iso, and aperture, then it's quite easy. Especially if you keep the same iso throughout your shoot. Automatic flashes make the job easier of course, if there are flashes that sync with the M6 (I haven't checked this).

Edit: I have to say that I also always used a handheld incident meter, and I would get the accurate ambient reading, then decide if I wanted a half or third flash for fill.

This may be somewhat helpful.

http://www.apug.org/forums/forum65/49321-have-you-used-leica-m6-flash-unit.html

Thanks very much for the link and tips. Shall read further.

What are the main reasons not to shoot on slide?

I'm obviously not going to be 'the official photographer' as it were, really just a couple of extra snaps. But I happen to like the colours I normally achieve with Provia and also happen to have a drawer full of the stuff :)

Might pop down to that Red Dot place on Old street to ask specifially about the M6.

afaik, slide is more sensitive to metering so you gotta get it right. If you're using flash for the first time, perhaps it's better to use a more forgiving film?

Slide film is much less forgiving with incorrect exposure, which is difficult to deal with when you're working quickly with different lighting conditions. Also, the different light sources will give you colour cast problems with slide.

snap

wow 120 non-flatbed... want.

does your film dev place not scan 120?

oh I found a couple more exposed films in a bag yesterday... might check out that place off Brick Lane recommended upthread. I am getting quite excite about impending photo delivery though :)

(still, no rush)

yeah he can do 120 but its just on a 5 yr old Epson flat bed for e6 because he doesn't have the license for the big machine to do slide stuff ( costs hundreds and Im the only one that would use it).
also for colour prints i need more like 60mb or more for big digital prints which he also can't do for 120.

scan place would very great. but i live almost in Scotland ;)

afaik, slide is more sensitive to metering so you gotta get it right. If you're using flash for the first time, perhaps it's better to use a more forgiving film?

Slide film is much less forgiving with incorrect exposure, which is difficult to deal with when you're working quickly with different lighting conditions. Also, the different light sources will give you colour cast problems with slide.

Aha, OK, thanks all - Shall perhaps rethink my strategy :)

Silde film (pro versions, and many prosumer/amateur ones also) have a very narrow latitude of exposure tolerance. Often its no more than 0.5 of a stop of over exposure, to 1 stop of under-exposure. Negative film can easily have a latitude of 3 stops over or of under-exposure, and a reasonable to good quality print can still be achieved from it. 2 stops over or under on slide film, will render the image almost all white, to all black. Well, nearly anyway - I'm exaggerating for effect.

Negative film = handles over and under-exposure well (3 stops variance over and underexposed).
Transparency film = does NOT tolerate more than only 1 stop off, either over or underexposed.

As I'd said CYOA, I did shoot a wedding on slide only, and used 2 Mamiya C33 cameras for the event. I metered for each and every shot. Slow and laborious, but I think I only missed 2 shots in total. Very successful, but I proved to myself that I could do it. Never again though. Negative film is better for most purposes.

Ha! OK, thanks :)

Some b n w is even more forgiving. regular fail upto 4stops over and 5 undereposed and can still get *something *

a lot of people under rate their film. i.e iso 100 film get shot and devd like it was iso 80 etc

Some b n w is even more forgiving. regular fail upto 4stops over and 5 undereposed and can still get *something *

a lot of people under rate their film. i.e iso 100 film get shot and devd like it was iso 80 etc

For the last year that I was shooting film I shot all 100 colour film at 400 and all B&W (fake B&W anyway, Ilford XP2 or the Kodak equivalent) at 1600 instead of 400 and had the lab push it two stops.

If you're not worrying about shooting people or something where you can spend a bit of time bracketing, the main benefit for me for slide film was it's ability to reproduce colour incredibly and with way less grain.