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• #2677
Cheers for that. I have no light meter but I'll grad one of the cheap analogue ones from ebay and use as suggested.
I was thinking I might need to do that sort of setup with the lens, was trying to find an easier method though. A few sums is less fiddly than a manual calibration.
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• #2678
I've made pinholes from cardboard and modified old cameras. I use the guide seen at the bottom right of this template and then use trial and error to get correct exposure.
This is my latest mod using a Holga 120
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• #2679
The great Justin Quinnell has made pin holes out of many things including a dustbin and a traffic cone. He's a master of the pin hole and a lovely man to boot
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• #2680
no way, setting stuff up and making things easier than optics calculations! - switch off light, face window. lock shutter open if you can, prop up lens. maybe make a quick frame to turn trace into a screen. move tracing paper away from it until distance stuff in focus, check focus with lupe on back of trace. measure distance. repeat with objects closer up as required, shine a desk lamp at them.
anyway, there aren't any sums, if it's a "true" 105mm, I would have thought the distance will be from the middle of the (thickness of the) lens, but the calibration is just to check that. I think.
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• #2681
It's only been a few weeks without access to a slide scanner and already it's driving me up the wall.
How much do I need to spend to get something half decent? Is 2nd hand a bad idea? Anyone got anything for sale?
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• #2682
There is a light meter app for the iPhone (no doubt android too) which is free and spot on.
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• #2683
I have a habit of buying really stupid cameras on eBay. When did I think a waterproof 110 camera would come in handy?
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• #2684
Unfortunately I am the serial owner of <£10 phones as I break them. No light meter app for an alcatel toy phone.
Thinking about it, the polaroid camera will make the perfect thing to test the lenses focal length. Can put a tracing paper screen over the back when opened up. Will attack with gaffa tape!
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• #2685
noo not gaffa! will leave sticky. use masking tape or something.
are you going to be able to move the lens to focus on closer stuff, or just keep it fixed?show us the pics when it's done :)
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• #2686
I have a habit of buying really stupid cameras on eBay. When did I think a waterproof 110 camera would come in handy?
Is it a yellow one?
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• #2687
I have a habit of buying really stupid cameras on eBay. When did I think a waterproof 110 camera would come in handy?
I would totally have used that last week sailing in Turkey. As it was I drained all the batteries on a μ4/3 camera, a Panasonic FT1 waterproof and the full 36 frames in a Pentax MX. Underwater photography is awesome.
1 Attachment
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• #2688
not sure about variable focus. The lens has a focussing ring and the polaroid has adjustable bellows. Need to see which works best. Will keep to masking tape!
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• #2689
Just looking at those XA 2 photo's, and the look amazing! Having just lugged a 450d + 12-24mm Sigma lens across Vietnam + NZ, I really like the look of it.
Are there any forums for advice about buying them? What to look for? And best ways to get results from them? I used to use an OM-10 a long time ago, and looking forward to learning film again...[also, apologies for not UTFS, I should be working ...]
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• #2690
Ok so I'm initially going to go for the pinhole option after seeing some lovely shots my friend made. She made hers using 2 35mm cartridges, the film being pulled from one to another. It's tiny and very simple and makes lovely photos.
I'll use the first pack of film with the pinhole and then experiment with the lens. Cheers for all the advice.
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• #2691
Double-X in D96
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• #2692
Great dog ^
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• #2694
Just looking at those XA 2 photo's, and the look amazing! Having just lugged a 450d + 12-24mm Sigma lens across Vietnam + NZ, I really like the look of it.
Are there any forums for advice about buying them? What to look for? And best ways to get results from them? I used to use an OM-10 a long time ago, and looking forward to learning film again...[also, apologies for not UTFS, I should be working ...]
This website will help you out chap;
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• #2695
£1400.....
Lovely stuff.
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• #2696
Zenit E, Fuju something-or-other film. I'll scan the negatives properly when I go back to uni, these were just scans of the prints with the worst flatbed scanner in the world.
Late commenting on these, but they're worth a mention. I love that the first looks like it was taken in the 1050s and the latter, the 1970s. For the look that you've achieved, by accident or design, I really do like these.
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• #2697
£1400
![](http://i.ebayimg.com/00/$(KGrHqMOKisE4p9oqFLCBOPnOfuW+g~~0_3.JPG)
Treasure trove!
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• #2698
Can someone identify the bottom right camera? the very square looking thing
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• #2699
Can someone identify the bottom right camera? the very square looking thing
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• #2700
just installed the battery adaptor and replaced the seals on my yahsica electro 35 gtn. I'm looking forward to using it. I also sent 8 films i found in a draw off no idea whats on them, might be a pleasant surprise.
^^ I'm sure others on here have more expertise than me, but first thoughts:
Pinhole exposures - easiest to calculate the equivalent of Sunny16 and then just guess either side, as the times are long anyway. however this won't be consistent enough for slide film. If you want to use a light meter, the cheap old-fashioned sort that have a dial and needle are quite good as you can just mark additional increments on them up to your required f-stop. Or if you have a digital light meter already that you want to use, write down the calculation you need to do on a label and stick it on as a reminder (eg. the exposure for f16 x 8 will get you to f128-ish).
Focal length - can you not set it up to focus on a sheet of tracing paper (use a lupe/magnifying glass too), then you know how far to put it from the film?