Bike Anti-Porn - When Things Go Wrong

Posted on
Page
of 1,957
First Prev
/ 1,957
Last Next
  • Purplerello? +2 for would ride (swap out saddle, add risers, remove brake, add retention).

  • But keep the cranks?

  • Yes. It's still only a conversion (front derailleur braze-on is hanging out like a barn door) so would ride it for funz.

  • ^ would be interested to know what it looks like without all the filters.
    Tie shrouded by the heavy mist of Instagram.

  • ^^ Seems to be a new trend of anti: Mega deep drops (keirin geo) with super short stem with 3 meters of seatpost (modern geo) and uncut fork steerer (cos frame is too bloody low for owner).

    Blargh. Frame is not too bad though is welds are nicely done, hard to see in pic.

  • Not so sure this is correct. A bigger (heavier) wheel will blatantly put more stress on the frame. Just look at monster trucks. Huge torsion / shear forces. Resulting in the use of artillery difs etc.

  • This is anti now?

  • look at monster trucks

    I've looked at monster trucks. It's hard to imagine how much more wrong you could be if you think there is anything useful to be said about fat bikes from looking at monster trucks.

  • Oh fuck this aint rat bikes lol.

  • Your point about surface area and load is moot when considering torsion / friction.

    I think you'll find I'm right. :o)

  • I think you'll find I'm right

    Well, I didn't make any points about surface area. Monster trucks are different from normal trucks in many ways beyond tyre size, and the differences are not only of an entirely different order of magnitude from the differences between fat bikes and normal bikes, but in most ways categorically different.

    You are right that both monster trucks and fat bikes have wider tyres than their normal brethren, but that turns out to be pretty irrelevant.

  • See.

  • It's actually from an Asian Facebook group. I don't Instagram.

  • What I'm wondering about if a heavier wheel in the fork would cause undue stress or vibration through the frame, thereby destroying a light road frame.

    In theory all the forces are via the rotational direction of the wheel, it's heavier, has more inertia but in theory that all goes via fork legs which can take it, but roads/tyres etc. aren't perfect. So there could be some "sideways" forcing on the HT.

    If the wheel is slightly out do you get shear on the HR? Do pothole cause shear? Can this cause forces higher than what the HT is built for?

    (apologies for not technically perfect language)

  • ^ I love gooooooooooooooold...

    From the bay, owdearowdearowdear

  • What is that? The split ST looks horrible and oddly telescopic from the side. Is the random extra piece welded under the DT necessary because they're using low grade steel? And that bridge...
    D:

  • Could so imagine the wheel not being able to fit through the gap/the dropouts not allowing the wheel to utilise the gap.

  • Is the random extra piece welded under the DT necessary because they're using low grade steel?

    Pretty normal looking gusset, as seen on some pretty high end steel MTB frames (and on some pretty horrible ones too)

  • I don't remember seeing one on any road or track frames (no expert here mind) for sure on MTBs, usually at a more obtuse angle. But it is for extra strength right?

  • No, you're wrong. Fat bikes and monster trucks are wholly different, not least because fat bike hubs are by definition running in double shear, whereas monster truck hubs are in single shear. This means the length of the axle is pretty irrelevant for fat bikes, but a major consideration for monster trucks.

  • What I'm wondering about if a heavier wheel in the fork would cause undue stress or vibration through the frame, thereby destroying a light road frame.

    No. The thing which breaks frames is having the rim hit the scenery because you've blown through the suspension travel provided by the pneumatic tyre. The amount of load the tyre can put into the frame as long as the air cushion is still working is limited to a function of the hoop stress in the tyre carcase, which is in turn is dependent on the pressure and cross section diameter. Wider tyres could put higher loads into the frame if they were run at the same pressure as narrower ones, but they usually aren't; in fact carcase hoop stress tends to be quite consistent over a wide range of tyre cross sections for a given load, because typical pressure settings are roughly inversely proportional to cross section diameter.

    If you brake hard while leaning over on a wide tyre, you can twist the fork more than you would on a narrow tyre, but you feel that as torque steer; if you can resist it with some steering input to the bars it's not doing any harm, and if you can't resist it you fall off :-)

  • Post a reply
    • Bold
    • Italics
    • Link
    • Image
    • List
    • Quote
    • code
    • Preview
About

Bike Anti-Porn - When Things Go Wrong

Posted by Avatar for flickwg @flickwg

Actions