Transmission database - for all your crank / bb / bottom bracket questions

Oh yeah didnt think about the fact its more to do with the chainstays. I'm pretty sure they'll be tighter than the pre cursa so more clearance.
Chainline seems decent as is and yeah rear wheel is staying the same

I bough a Cannondale Capo second hand, and it came with an ISIS bottom bracket installed and FSA Carbon Pro cranks. The crank arms are carbon and the spider is some kind of metal.

The spider has unfortunately worked a bit loose (apparently a known problem), so I'm looking to replace them with FSA Carbon Track cranks (where the spider and crank arm are all one unit)

Do I need to worry about throwing the chain line out? And should I be taking this opportunity to move from ISIS to some other BB standard?

ISIS have a bad rep for durability, yes move away if you can.

Measure how far your sprocket is from the centre plane of the bike (i.e. its chainline measurement). Try to research the chainline that any alternative crank/BB setup would create.

Or for low risk and easy maintenance just go square taper, get the cranks that you want, and then just get the exact spindle length you need to make it work. That's what I'd probably do...

Thanks dude, I've found a good deal on some isis cranks but I'll check out square taper options.

And now I've written isis enough to qualify for a government watch list.

Get a 111mm Campag Centaur. I wouldn't use a Shimano BB with 75s.

Double-check, but I'm sure I've read that there two versions of ISIS BB: the splines changed.

Retailers don't always make clear (or even know) which one they're selling.

Took off my chain/rear derailleur to get my bike back on a flight, and on arrival I've noticed that the cranks will only spin about a rotation and-a-half before stopping. This is with a pretty much brand new Dura Ace BB and Ultegra cranks.

Other than the bottom bracket having been put in on the wonk, what are the possible causes, and would it make any actual difference to power?

Hi- I'm looking for a little help/advice.... Apologies for my ignorance, but could someone tell me if these . will take a 10 speed Shimano/SRAM cassette?

Many thanks.

Probably not.

A Shimano 10 speed cassette is 37.2 mm thick.
A Shimano 7 speed cassette is 31.9 mm thick.

So you need to find an extra 5.3mm space for the larger cassette. It's possible (but unlikely) that there may be a 5mm spacer behind the current 7 speed cassette, or perhaps a 3mm spacer and you could maybe get away with 2mm less thread engaged on the cassette lockring.

That said, you might need less than 5.3mm extra because Shimano 10s cassettes actually put the biggest sprocket inboard of the freehub flange, saving you maybe 2mm (not sure). So there's a chance.

Start by asking the seller your 10s question, and if they don't know then start asking about spacers. Or just turn up at their place with a chainwhip, cassette tool and 10s cassette and try it.

hi guys, I got myself paul hubs + sugino 75s. But, my frame is Italian threaded. I was hoping to upgrade my bb as well (shimano un's dont last). Suginos suggest to get 109 bb, which are hard to come by in Italian thread.
Will campag 111 bb work with my setup?!

Thanks for the reply! It's much appreciated.

The seller isn't sure about compatibility... He seems to think its an 8 speed hub, with a 7 speed cassette + spacer currently installed....

If it turns out to be a 7 speed hub, I could use the '9 of 10 on 7' principle outlined by Sheldon Brown, right?

No reason you couldn't use 9 of 10 cassette sprockets, as long as your derailleur limit screws will go in that far. You'd be able to play around with the (now spare) cassette spacer to move the cassette in-board / out-board and hopefully find the sweet spot with limit screws.

You'll have 10 clicks and 9 gears, so hide the 10th one past the low gear stop and you'll never be able to click into it.

Any ideas how to find out what bb lenght should i put into my Aventon Cordoba with Token crankset?

phil lockring on system ex hub? yes or no?

Nope, phil is campag thread.

If you want a nice lockring grab the paul comp or DA one.

Ask Token.

If you want a nice lockring grab...

... a bling-bling, track hub lockring?

Andel/All-City + Phil-108 JIS + All City New Sheriff + Soma, 42mm = G5

Currently replacing a bottom bracket on a Rosini frame. The one I have taken out is a Mavic mobile fixie which is seized but serviceable at some stage.

Can anyone advise a good bottom bracket to replace this with. The BB shell appears to be 70mm and I'm assuming Italian thread.

Let me know if any other info would help.

Hi all,

I'm in the process of building up a 1980s Rauler (Italian road bike) frame into a fixed gear for road use. A friend has offered to sell me his brand new Pista crankset, which is nice, but I need to pair it with a suitable BB, and the Pista BB has exposed bearings so isn't ideal for my purposes. I was about to press 'buy' on a Centaur, but realised it's symmetrical (I think), whilst the Pista is asymmetrical (according to the Campy catalogue), and I'm not sure how that'll affect the chainline.

Any thoughts/ideas? Does anyone use the Centaur BB with a Pista crankset? How is it? Or maybe there's a better/more suitable BB option that I don't know about? I need Italian threading, of course.

Cheers

Quick Q: best way to remove SRAM Red Exogram crankset? Is it just anti-clockwise with a 10mm allen key on the drive side? What's the little adjustment wheel for in-between the non drive side crank arm and the frame?

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70mm italian BB shell and 7800 (hollowtech II) cranks - are the only BBs available those from Shimano? merely wondering if there's any other models similar to those from Hope that are fully maintainable (Hope don't do them in Italian threading).

Apologies in advance... I tried UTFS-ing but had trouble getting much clear info from the mixture of posts it spat out at me....

What are my BB options for Dura Ace 7600s? As far as I can understand 111mm ISO would work so Campag centaur would be okay? Intending to run this on the street and eventually track (would consider more track appropriate/performant BB at that point). Oh and on a cinelli vig if that makes any difference other than English threaded.

Have SS'd my inbred slot dropout. Currently using SLX triple on 32 but want to use it on another build. Got old Truvativ FiveD square taper but chucked bb as it was knackered. It sounds like I need English 68 x 113 Shimano has 2 options UN26 or UN 55.

Is difference just quality, i.e. 55 is better?

Also, it seems on the truvativ fived that the outer ring cant be moved to middle position if I wanted to push a less spinny gear, or am I overlooking something?