Slipping cranks, drive chain slip?

Hey 31 T RUM, what do you mean by two treads in the hub?

He means that a track hub will have two threaded surfaces on it. The first lot of threads - the ones closest to the centre of the hub - are for a cog. But then there will be a little "step" down to a second set of threads for a lockring.

If there's only one threaded surface and no "step", the hub wasn't intended for fixed wheel use.

Therefore, I am "fucked." All I have is one long thread, but, maybe, I could re- thread with a file to make the space you are talking about ****Soweto888 ****. Also, thanks for the info bro

It's not really a space, more a sort of step where the diameter of the threaded surface gets narrower. You should be able to see it in this photo:

Don't take a file to the hub whatever you do. You'll just waste it. All is not lost, though. Read what Sheldon has to say - the bit under the heading Conventional Freewheel-type Hubs deals with this problem.

http://www.sheldonbrown.com/fixed-conversion.html#freewheelhub

Now I can understand why the lockring I bought would not fit in the thread of the hub. I did find a solution which is a bit different. From Sheldons site and bobs fixed gear garage. It consistes in using a lockring for a bottom bracket.

It's not the best solution as the thread direction is the same so your somewhat more likely to knock the bb lockring off if you spin the cog off under braking force.

i.e run brakes

^ two of them!

DEPRESSED

but still alive!

just wondering what everyone's opinion on thread lock is. my lockring thread (the one on the hub) is a bit worn and the lockring seems to loosen. i was given advice that maybe some blue threadlock could help and was wondering if this is a viable solution or do I just need to replace the hub altogether.
[basically, I have borrowed a mates bike for a few months whilst he is on holiday to see if the ss was for me. after a couple of weeks i flipped the hub to ride fixed and am a convert. he rides free-wheel so i don't really want to replace the whole hub for a couple of months, before i get my own ride.]

i do think miche are the best makers of stuff.
I rate miche highly just by looking at them ,
even though i don't have any miche stuff.
yet...

I just went out for a ride on my plug freestyler and as I accelerated from standstill or tried to skid I experienced this kind of slippage, not as dramatic as the OPs though. What do I need to tighten and do I need any special tools?
I have the stock flip-clop hub.

Is it brand new philjay? It's normal that the cog will tighten slightly when you start using it so you just need to tighten the lockring. This requires a lock ring tool such as this;

Yup it's brand new.
I'm assuming the lockring is that black disk touching the sprocket with the notches in it?
Thanks andy :)

The black disk with the notches will be the lockring. :-)

You should be able to pick up a lockring spanner at most bike shops if you think you'll need one (they are always handy to have). Or you can borrow one off a mate or at one of the drinks nights organised through this forum.

What worries me is that it slipped in both directions? Surely it shouldn't slip when accelerating but only braking/skidding?

The sprocket probably wasn't on at it's tightest OTP. I would do some hills to get it as tight as poss before tightening the lockring.

Oh I see fair enough. By the way I can't seem to find a lock ring tool in any of the chain bike stores (evans, cyclopedia, cycle surgeries). Where can I find one other than on the internet?

Condor will have one. Or try BLB, Cavendish or Tour de Ville.

you might have a cheaper sprocket (non machined/pressed) these are not as thick as a cnc machined sprocket. it means there is room for the sprocket to move on the thread between the hub and the lockring. If this is the problem it does not matter how much you tighten the lockring up, it will always slip.

It's a Charge Plug I think. Doubt it's a prob with the sprocket itself.

Well problem solved, dropped it off at my local evans on the way to school. Fixed for free (pun not intended?)

I always rotafix the cog and then tighten the lock ring...so far it always worked..

So i got a new wheelset and after much thought and practice decided to go brakeless.
(Coz i dont wanna strip teh paintz off ma new rims innit)

Started riding, when i attempt to skid/apply hard resistance on the pedals, i get some slippage. So i assumed as this was the new wheelset, the cog/lockring may be loose, so i got it tightened at the LBS. Still experience slipping, so i take it back get it tightened again.

Seems fine until today, attempt to skid to slow down, i hear a metal scraping sound. The chain slips, so i pedal forward and numerous clicking and crunching sounds exude from the bike, sounds like the BB possibly? could this be the problem.

Its the standard BB on the Fuji Track, should i just swap it out. Advice would be much appreciated! Thanks

£1?

Slack chain?