Slipping cranks, drive chain slip?

I tension my chain by finding the tightest point then tensioning so that when i wiggle the top the bottom wiggles at the point the bottom stops wiggling its over tight! is this wrong?

I've got an On-One high flange rear hub which I believe is a rebranded novatec.

After building the wheels and fitting the cog, it slipped a bit. So I hit a hill hard and tightened the lockring at the top. All seemed fine.

A few days later the cog slipped again on my way to work. I was pretty close to the office so I continued, taking it easy. Bought a lockring tool and tightened it up. It got real tight, then loose and fell into two pieces. Not sure what it was made of, but there were some cracks on it around the notches where the tool grips.

The hub is fixed-fixed, so I grabbed the ring from the other side and noticed that it has torque values on it. I wasn't following these values as I'd always thought I wanted the lockring as tight as possible.

I've just went out and bought some dura ace lockring, which I notice have no torque values on them. I'm going to tighten this one as much as I can.

I've never had any problems like this on my Brooklyn, which has a Paul hub on the rear. Is tightening up the lockring as tight as possible not the right approach, or does it sound like the on-one lockring was basically made of cheese.

Was the cog on properly tight before you tightened the lockring? Also I don't think you want any a part to be 'as tight as possible'.

Was the cog on properly tight before you tightened the lockring? Also I don't think you want any a part to be 'as tight as possible'.

Yeah it was. At least it wasn't moving and more after going up the hill pretty hard.

Normally I use a torque wrench for all of the parts, but the lockring was one part I'd thought needed to be really tight on.

Yeah 'really tight' sounds good, but 'as tight as possible' sounds too tight...

Good to know, thanks :)

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^^^^ The lock rings that come with those hubs are really shit and have heard of lots breaking in just that way.

I use Paul and DA lock rings now and tighten them up just a little less than 'really fucking tight' and haven't had a problem.

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^^^^ The lock rings that come with those hubs are really shit and have heard of lots breaking in just that way.

I use Paul and DA lock rings now and tighten them up just a little less than 'really fucking tight' and haven't had a problem.

Glad I'm not the only one they've broken on. Though it sucks they break.

Got the DA ring on tonight, been for a blast and seems solid now. Will consider changing the hub once I get some spare cash.

So basically generic shit isn't worth the metal it's forged out of?

Not in my experience :(

The hubs are perfectly fine unless it's not damaged but the rings are shit.

^ Yeah this.

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Did it feel like things slipped 'back' the other way when you pedalled again?

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Everything needs tightened then.

Don't just tighten lockring against cog, you also need to tighten cog against hub.

I haven't trawled through all the posts on here because I can't be arsed but try cleaning everything with 0000 steel wool soaked in WD40, dry and then lubricate with ptfe oil. Makes a big difference

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So long as the tool has the correct curvature to sit over the top of the lockring one hook is plenty.

The one hook should be fine.

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