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• #277
All this flak about gears... I could of sworn this was the fixed gear and single speed forum. Obviously he doesn't want gears, and he will still appreciate the frame whether fixed or geared or whatever. Bit concerned about the mention of a chain tensioner... That would be a crime. It has forward facing dropouts, you don't need a chain tensioner.
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• #278
Get the hacksaw out and start chopping. Then rattlecan it black or something.
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• #279
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• #280
All this flak about gears... I could of sworn this was the fixed gear and single speed forum. Obviously he doesn't want gears, and he will still appreciate the frame whether fixed or geared or whatever. Bit concerned about the mention of a chain tensioner... That would be a crime. It has forward facing dropouts, you don't need a chain tensioner.
Why spend £250 on a road frame just to run it fixed? Makes no sense to me... Easy to pick up a track frame for that bunce...
Your argument is invalid... My Roberts track frame cost me £200... -
• #281
read the sticky thread in mech and fixing.
read sheldon brown
Buy some vernier (sp?) callipers.
if you don't have tools, buy a cheap halfruads tool set and replace as they break.
measure the spacing between the rear dropouts.
Choose cranks and buy BB to match - (see definitive lists).
buy wheelset depending on your rear spacing (see definitive list or buy secondhand on here) If its SS then you can just use anyold 2nd hand road wheelset (subject to rear spacing).
mess about with chainline (see above reading material).
buy the cheapest quill stem you can, while you work out what length you need, then buy a nice one. Also remember that handlebars have different diameters so you need a stem that fits the bars you want.
the rest should be relatively obvious.
Hope that helps to get you started.
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• #282
Why spend £250 on a road frame just to run it fixed? Makes no sense to me... Easy to pick up a track frame for that bunce...
Your argument is invalid... My Roberts track frame cost me £200...He's right. There's a reason why you see less and less conversions in current projects.
imo a conversion should really be a 5-speed racing bike, maybe tatty maybe not. But done because;
1) its easy with rear spacing;
2) because its not all that anyway.Nothing against ppl who convert other bikes, just can't see the point.
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• #283
To all those who say if you want fixed ride a track frame... Er there is a pretty strong argument for conversions over track frames for road use at least if you want to run a front brake, track forks not usually being designed for brake fittings...
So is it more of a crime to use a road frame without gears, drill a fork which isn't designed for a brake fitting, or use a road fork on a track frame? Surely all of these are about as close in the puppy slaying stakes?!
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• #284
^ fair point.
Don't really think conversions are a crime.... I think filling bits off and loosing the original paint job is a shame (and will ultimately be regreted) but they're just bikes.
I just think if you're going to spend the sort of money a +£200 frame will make your build cost, you may as well take the easier option.*
EDIT: * and arguably have something that looks better, or at least cleaner and more purpose built.
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• #285
I think filling bits off and loosing the original paint job is a shame (and will ultimately be regreted) but they're just bikes.
Agreed!
I just think if you're going to spend the sort of money a +£200 frame will make your build cost, you may as well take the easier option.
I just think conversions can be the easier option, at least if you do want to run a brake. The hassle of respacing a rear axle is pretty minimal, but finding ultra low reach calipers, possibly drilling forks, and then braking on a fork which isn't designed for those forces is probably more hassle, not less.
I should add I've only come to this conclusion recently as I'm building up my first track frame after building and riding several conversions for the past 3 years... Maybe after the first ride I'll be converted against conversions, but at the moment my Samson is more hassle than a road frame by far
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• #286
Fair points. tbh it all depends doesn't it.
I ride a condor pista... so hardly a 'track' frame and drilled front and rear. Most new frames seem to be drilled anyway.
With clamp-on brakes being easy to get hold of I don't think I'd ever drill a frame ( plus in the flesh I think they look fine), but I can imagine its long.
Anyway, if its the OP's first build its all good practice.
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• #287
Whats wrong with running a road bike on the road? Track bike geometry is made for track so they should stay there.
Just because it's a road frame doesn't mean it cant be used with a fixed gear or SS.
Saying that fixed is out of fashion is just lame. It takes a shallow person to follow such advice.
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• #288
Why spend £250 on a road frame just to run it fixed? Makes no sense to me... Easy to pick up a track frame for that bunce...
Your argument is invalid... My Roberts track frame cost me £200...I'm not arguing about shit. i'm saying it's his bike, let him get on with it. Help if you're going to help, positivity a very powerful thing considering it's free.
i have a feeling where hacksawing and rattlecanning it black was mentioned, you might have missed something...
I ride a converted bob jackson,
I ride it because my next door neighbour was clearing out his garage at the exact same time I was thinking about whether to build a fixed bike or geared bike, he'd seen me working on my other bike and asked if i wanted his for parts, so now have both.
My fixed bike has been build on a fairly tight budget, apart from the recent campag crank + bb.
I will most likely get it sandblasted and clearcoat it, as the paint is very tatty and I reckon the naked look would suit it.
Talking about benefits of conversions, I could have sworn sheldon mentions something about comfort in there somewhere?
However to agree with you, i would never buy a road frame to run as fixed, unless it was ridculously beautiful/cheap.
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• #289
Just google Sheldon Brown, you'll find him to be quite useful for your first time round.
+1
I'm having a lot of fun doing my first SS conversion and Sheldon Brown's site has been an invaluable resource so far.
Good luck with your project! Nice frame, btw. :)
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• #290
that frame is lovely I wish id have had the chance to purchase it, looks sensational even without any parts on it, im new to this having to add three comments so I can ask a question myself!
what a lovely frame
can I ask if thats the original paint job or a re spray please and where did you get it sprayed?, if anyone has any recommendations or can direct me to someone in Yorkshire who does re sprays id appreciate Wayne
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• #291
I agree that if you want fixed you should ride a track frame. I think the geometry contributes a lot to the fun feeling.
Conversions are good. You dont need a track frame.
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• #292
Conversions are good. You dont need a track frame.
^This, I was riding my conversion road bike for 4 years, no matter how many bikes I'd get I would always choose that one. I still think though, that if you're paying top dorrah you might as well get the right one. Having said this, running the Roberts as SS or fixed is a bit of a shame... IMO.
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• #293
road bike geometry is generally considered more comfortable for road riding than track geometry, mainly because it's designed to be. the fact it's a road frame isn't why it should be built properly, it's because it's a hand-built frame built by one of the most respected framebuilders in the country/world.
there's also the problem that anyone who's been into cycling for over 20 minutes will take one look at you riding fixed on a classic frame like that and think "what a tool". also the fact that you spent £225 on a frame, having never built a bike before may also make people think "what a rich tool".
tl;dr: BUILT NICELY WITH GEARS PLEASE
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• #294
To be honest I think riding a fixed conversion on the roads makes more sense than riding a track bike on the road. Road bikes are built for the road, track bikes are built for the track.
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• #295
Congrats on the gorgeous frame by the way, converting it won't ruin it. Putting tacky parts on it will though.
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• #296
To be honest I think riding a fixed conversion on the roads makes more sense than riding a track bike on the road. Road bikes are built for the road, track bikes are built for the track.
Beach cruisers are made for the beach.
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• #297
To be honest I think riding a fixed conversion on the roads makes more sense than riding a track bike on the road. Road bikes are built for the road, track bikes are built for the track.
Finally someone speaks sense!
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• #298
Beach cruisers are made for the beach.
Ah bollocks...
I like to think of it as resistance training.
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• #299
Balki point being is that mountain biking start off by using modified beach cruiser aka 'clunker' and take them off roading.
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• #300
^ wiganwill
I agree that if you want fixed you should ride a track frame. I think the geometry contributes a lot to the fun feeling.