Wheelbuilding / Wheel Building / Wheel build help

do all the variations of mavic's open rim have the same same dimensions ?

mavic open sup CD
mavic open pro
mavic open pro ceramic

do all these have the same erd ?

Also if anyone knows what the cheapest non-shit silver hub in existence is, that would be great too.

planet x on one hubs
equivalent of novatech / sjs hubs

http://www.planet-x-bikes.co.uk/i/q/HUOOLF/on_one_large_flangetrack_hub

seem to crop up quite a lot when cheap but perfectly decent comes to mind

That was my thought too.

I wonder how they will fair with a tiny rim and 32 spokes x3. For a bmx sized rims would I need a low flange hub?

I guess I could always have a radial front, but that would look a bit ridiculous.

EDIT: Decore

Open pros = yes the same.

The finishes are all applied to same rim extrusion

oh i see
what about some old school BMX hubs they seem to be common on ebay and not a huge amount
although not sure about the axle lengths and what frame you are putting them on ?

something along the lines of these
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/NOS-BMX-Hubs-ACS-and-Suzue-Vintage-old-school-bmx-hubs-/111052765388?pt=UK_sportsleisure_cycling_bikeparts_SR&hash=item19db42b8cc

i am sure plenty of other hubs are available i just searched ACS as I knew they made hubs of a decent quality .. they might suit the rims better

general search
http://www.ebay.co.uk/sch/i.html?_sop=15&_sacat=0&_from=R40&_nkw=bmx+hubs&_pgn=2&_skc=50&rt=nc

KinPin. Which is a standard 100mm on the front.

I'm really looking for something sub-£15 for a hub.... and ideally sub-£10.

The main thing really is working out how cheaply I can do this to see if it's worth it.

On spokes I still haven't found anything better really than cycle basket. Even by looking for straight gauge spokes.

It's a beater, but I really do want to drop some of the weight, and worst case I think I can keep the wheels in the future.

I wonder how they will fair with a tiny rim and 32 spokes x3. For a bmx sized rims would I need a low flange hub?

No, just build with fewer crossings. The aim is to get the spokes as close as possible to tangential to the hub, if in doubt draw it or use trigonometry to work out the spoke angles.

trigo - what - o - metry ?

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trigo - what - o - metry ?

here

Thanks.

It looks like the wheel build may actually be a go. I just managed to get 2x Sun *451mm *32h rims.

The only problem is that I think my current SA hub is 36h. In which case I'm guessing my best (economically) option is breaking the wheelset up and selling the hubs to fund another SA hub in 32h.

From what I've read I want a pre-80s SA hub, are there any other useful hints or tips?

here

fixed the link. apologies.

do all the variations of mavic's open rim have the same same dimensions ?

mavic open sup CD
mavic open pro
mavic open pro ceramic

do all these have the same erd ?

may i repost myself ?

may i repost myself ?

Open pros = yes the same.
The finishes are all applied to same rim extrusion

?

ooops missed that sorry adoubletap

Does anybody know of a decent wheel building course in London?

CTUK seem to do some but haven't got dates.

Anybody been on one of Arup's courses? Look good value: http://www.yogarup.com/wheels/classes.php

i can wholly recommend arup and his skills
book one up and give it a go

Also if anyone knows what the cheapest non-shit silver hub in existence is, that would be great too.

Found these NOS 32h silver Shimano Exage's @ £4 posted, just thought I would share.

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/SHIMANO-EXAGE-BICYCLE-QUICK-RELEASE-FRONT-HUB-32H-NOS-/190808747224?pt=UK_sportsleisure_cycling_bikeparts_SR&hash=item2c6d166cd8

So much cheap "NOS" hub hasn't quite been the deal I thought.

It was filthy and didn't spin properly. But it looks unlaced and now I've taken the axle and cups out the cups look unworn.

But...
http://i926.photobucket.com/albums/ad106/hugo7_photos/AA262377-E049-4A2B-A60E-D74556E36801-19158-000016CA34F51166_zps1b3e8828.jpg

...should there be an extra ball bearing in their or not?

Cheers.

Edit: both sides look as though they have the same no. of bearings ie one potentially missing.

Thats strange. Some racers used to take a bearing out of each side to make it lighter! Supposed to reduce rolling resistance too. Those exage hubs share the same body as the 105 of that generation but have rough bearings. Ive seen worn out parts listed as NOS before, some people dont actually know what it stands for and presume it means 'vintage'!
My phone screen is a bit damaged but your hub just looks dirty, I cant see marks from spokes being laced previoust

...should there be an extra ball bearing in their or not?

Check the relevant Shimano pdf, but they usually have odd numbers, typically 9×¼" rear and 11×3/16" front for road hubs with conventional 10mm R/9mm F axles.

^ thanks. I'll check.

I took a BB from one side and added it to the other and it looks am feels like it makes more sense.

^^ I'm almost 100% it's unused. If I was going to guess I'd say it was stored in a warm place and the grime is grease that's leaked out over time. Which would also explain why it's so dry inside.

I can't see anyone taking a bearing out of a 32h exage hub for racing purposes.

Ultimately, it was £4 and it looks like I can service it. Still I've messages the seller so he can check the remaining stock/update the listing.

I'm about to build a 28H front wheel with a (very subtle) difference.
Hub has paired spoke holes, but rim (in this case a CXP33) has equispaced holes.
Here's a picture of the hub as used in the original build (Sonic Paris-Roubaix) - and it's also paired with an equispaced rim.

When I'd calculated the spoke length I rounded down on the basis that the paired holes mean the spokes will be shorter. (269mm calculated vs 268mm purchased).
I'm assuming this will be a pretty straightforward build - am I missing something?